PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 45, 21 August 1926, Page 17

PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

FASHIONS AND FANCIES.

(Written for "The Post" by "Germaine.") PAEIS, 23rd June. THE "GRAND STEEPLE" AT AUT2UIL. All those interested in the Turf were present on Sunday at the Grand Steeple at Auteuil. Theu was a record crowd. British vl-ltors were to be met everywhere. In fact, overy nationality was represented. The smart Frenchwoman, tho 'J tv: "■squo Englishwoman, the frail-looking a'ici ultra-smart American woman from tho States, and the bejewelled, tropical-looking Am.rican from tho Argentine. The Spaniard; languid, dark-eyed, and graceful; t.io ItalUn, with her warm, pale skin and beautiful clothes (Italian women can dress!); every class, every country was represented. Tho midinette, cleverly tricked out to look like a mannequin, and the mannequin to look like a society woman. The society woman is a mute protest against democracy, and inwardly bewails tho day when she had i things more to herself. The tailormade Englishwoman, the Englishwoman who ought to bo tailor-made and is not, tho American man who does not look tho equal of his wife, and the wives of many nationalities whj do not look tho equal of their husbands. It is tho wildest, maddest, most bewildering sight you can think of. And it is one to be seen once in a lifetimo at least. A LOVELY SETTING. A lovtely setting had been supplied j for the great picture, for near the fine trees, which throw so welcome a shade, the'gardener had arranged .-, fine display of flowers in every colour, which climbed along the balconies and terraces of tho grandstand, and blazed in beds. Tho public did the rest. They mustered in thousands, and the women's dresses were the brightest ever seen at this aristocratic race meeting. Many of them seemed to have been designed with an eye to Deauville's lawns for next month's wear. Chiffon frocks we in great evidence, both plain, pastel shades, and. lively printed patterns were included. One attractive j. ' ted frock had poppies on a white ground.

The hat was a largo natural-coloured leghorn, trimmed with velvet ribbons in tones to match the colour of the fro&k. A white fox supplanted the cape or coat. One very attractive-Chin-ese) Mandarin coat in purple was trimmed with a deep ermine collar. Embroidered shawls enjoyed a fair share of favour in wraps. As for the hats, the, smartest were in felt, in black, in white, in biscuit, many destined for high season wear under the Deauville sun, where they will make a chic and pleasing effect. A few large shapes wero to be seen, with the now model, which has an enormous brim, in front, shaped like a Poke bonne. It was noticeable that few i imen carried parasols. This was rather extraordinary, for the new sunshades for summer wear are distinctly alluring, and are to be seen in every shade of the rainbow, as well as in delicate pastel colourings. Perhaps though, the women trusted their complexions to their black felt hats, trimmed with, bouquets of roses, or to the protection of ochre coloured powder, REGARDING HATS. Narrow-brimmed felt hats are gradually being supplanted by the new camouflage broad-brimmed hats, because when the sun deigns to make an appearance, as it does by fits and starts, happily—it is useful. The new hat not only takes the place of the smaller hat, but it takes the place of the sunshade as well. It is usually made of straw, but, unlike the straw for other seasons, it looks in perspective much like knitted material. The wide brim accentuates the width on one side, and turns down more sharply on one angle than on tho other. It has been discovered that white for a sun hat is not a protecting or soothing colour for summer, and this is tho scjason, perhaps, for the anti-whito campaign which tho modistes have been launching. Mauve, all shades of red and pink, many pale blues, and pastel, are seen in tho hat world, topping, frocks and wraps to mateh —toujours "l'ensemblo"! SIMPLE DRESSES ARE ELABORATED. English and American women, sometimes petulantly ask: "Why should we bo forced to come to Paris to buy the simplest dresses? Why not buy them at Home?" Very well, Madame, try it.' Your English or American "petite robe" will inevitably lack that indefinable "something," tho turning of a cuff, a bit of ribbon, a cut of a sleeve— "something" will not bo there that should. And, instead of a little dress, carrying its cachet of distinction and cut, you will have just a little dress. Petite robes belong to women of all classes: ultra fashionable,- young bour-

geoises, middle-aged, all need these 'tween frocks. They arc worn for afternoon shopping, for informal calls, for indoor work, for a dozen occasions that must be classified under "daily.," For tho past two years the petite robes followed the general trend, • and we I found them very straight, made up of two straight seams with a little collar and a small belt, with.short or long sleeves, according to tho individual taste of the wearer. The most elaborate could only boast of pleats. This season a change has taken place. The petite robe is being made up with panels with tunics with two kinds of material, perhaps a frill, a flounce at the throat, or from the neck of the waistline, and even the good old-fash-ioned "jabots" have been seen. It can no longer be made up in a few hours. It is abandoning the mannish style and becoming feminised. SIMPLE DRESo lIAfiDEST TO COMBINE. It ia a well-known fact that the "Frenchy" simple littlo dress is the hardest to combine. Its chic will lie in a dozen little details, and it needs a great deal more thought and ingenuity than a startling gold or silver frock or a Futuristic creation of chiffon. Although godets have almost passed to oblivion, the fullness remains, slight and very distinct. -It lies in the cut of the material over the hips, or in a double tunic, with box-pleats, a mode favoured by some French dressmakers. It is interesting to note that some of the grande couturiers show a frill of lace, or a loose chiffon tie on several of these little frocks, or a long, narrow effect from neck to below the leather belt is achieved; while another chic, style is created by pleats of fine lace on each side of a waistcoat effect, fastening a loose bow of ribbon to the lace collar, with wide, turn-back point. On a black crepe frock a long white crepe tie forms a collar and crosses at the , neck, the ends reaching almost to the knees.