In the Garden

Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 3, 3 July 1926, Page 27

In the Garden

By "PRA

CTICAL

RAISING SEEDLINGS

SUGGESTED METHODS

A CORRESPONDENT'S QUERIES.

"Antirrhinum" writes asking for the proper method of raising seedlings. Also for a substitute, for "well rotted manure," and whether the germination of imported seeds is affected by the difference in season.

Hardy plants may safely be raised in prepared beds outside, and as a rule the result will be ibetter than when raised in boxes un4er glass, as when under cover the temperature must be watched, and also the matter of watering. The average ' amateur gardener has neither the knowledge nor the timo to watch the seedlings as they require. If the seed-beds are thoroughly worked to a fino tilth, and the seeds sown thinly and shallow, there should be no difficulty. To prevent damage to the young seedlings and the ground from becoming beaten down hard by heavy rains, a piece of scrim may be stretched over the beds and attached to a rough frame; or some light scrubby branch* laid over the beds will act in the same way, at the same time preventing birds from scratching out the seed. Tho matter of seed-beds and seed raising will be dealt with more fully in these notes. SUBSTITUTE FOB MANURE. As to a substitute for well-rotted manure, no one material can take the place of stable manure for all-round garden uso, as this contains all the necessary elements of plant food. The most important ingredient i 3 humus, which forms the bulk of stable manure. This humns is absolutely necessary to plant life, and may be supplied by, means of any decayed vegetable matter —weeds, soft hedge clippings, grass cuttings, and old vegetable leaves, etc., or by means, of green cropping, which is the most satisfactory method of replenishing the humus in the soil of gardens which are, constantly under crop.

For general purposes, where the soil is light, blood and bone manure is perhaps the best artifical fertiliser, as the blood is immediately available and the bone remains for a longer period. From what you say, there seems little doubt "that your land is lacking in humus, and to rectify this want I should advise sowing down with a green crop, such as lupin, oats, mustard, or rape; anything, iii fact, which will make a rank growth quickly. Before sowing give the land a sprinkling of superphosphate or bonedust. The seed should be fairly deeply covered, as otherwise much of it will be stolen by sparrows and other birds. If part of the garden is so treated each year, the humus content of the soil will be maintained. Lime is a necessary item, as it makes available to tho plants certain elements already in the soil. This, however, is apt to destroy humus, go must not be overdone, and should not be applied at the same time as stable manure.

FERTILITY OF SEEDS.

The period of fertility of various seeds is very variable some remaining fertile ' for years, while others must be sown within a few months of ripen- j ing at the" most. As-a general -rule, the fresher the, seed the better percentage of germination will result. Withal ordinary garden seeds better results will be obtained from locally grown stock, and very few cannot be obtained without sending out of the Dominion. As a- matter of fact, quite a considerable quantity of seeds of various sorts are exported from this country to the Old Land. I The wonderfully: mild, weather experienced during last month is apt to deceive us into the belief that the spring has arrived, and that winter is j over. Many plants are likely to get a rude shock also, as young growth is quite noticeable on many plants, and will surely got a severe check when the ] colder weather comes this month. So far,' the ground has remained workable, and a good opportunity has been .afforded to a get planting done. Any trees of shrubs, fruit trees or roses, ■ which are to be planted still should be got in as early as possible, but rather than tramp about on the ground while it is in a very wet condition it is , advisable to delay the work for a week or two. Methods of planting have already been dealt with in these colums several times, but it may be as well to repeat that the ground should have been thoroughly worked to a good depth, with plenty of humus incorporated in the lower spit. The holes should be made large enough to take the roots without having to double them in, and where there are long, stragly roots which cannot conveniently be put in, these should be shortened back with a sharp knife or seccateurs. Make the hole 3 a little higher in the centre, so that the roots may be spread out evenly with a downward tendency. Do not plant too deep, and place a firm stake close to the trunk before filling in the hole. This prevsnts the possibility of damaging the roots, which would probably result if the stake wore driven in after the roots were covered. Some fine, good soil should bo worked in among the roots, and be made firm by treading, and the final soil be added, leaving the surface. Jpose. Boses should be planted from -6 to 9 inches deep, and oil no account should they be put in deeper than they were in the nursery. This may be seen by the soil mark. Before planting, carefully look over the roots and cut away any which are torn or : broken. I PRUNING EOSES. Pruning of roses may be commenced at any time when the soil is fit to walk over. The object of pruning is to maintain the strength and vigour of the plant and to preserve a good shape. If allowed to grow without pruning, more blooms may result for a year or two, but these will soon deteriorate and the bushes become a tangled mass with numbers of malformed small flowers. All roses do not require the same amount of cutting; in fact some must be hardly pruned at all, such as the Pernetianas, which merely require to have dead twigs cut out. The strong growers, such as Hugh Dickson and Frau Karl Druschki, should wave the growths cut ba«k to about lOin, while any superfluous growths or dead wood may be removed altogether. Moderate growers require to be shortened back more severely, leaving from 4in to sin, while very weak growers should bo cut to two or three eyes or buds. In every case the cuts should be made to an eye pointing outwards to keep the bush open in the centre. Any branches which are crossing others or growing inwards should be cut right away. Some of the rank growers are excellent for pegging down. They often send up strong growth from 6ft to 9ft long, and this may be bent over and pegged to the ground, when they will send up flowering shoots from each eye, making a splendid display. If those long growths aio allowed to remain they .only ge^ broken off or whipped about in the wind, doing much damage to the rest of the tree. Climbers should have as much of the old worn-out wood re^ ; -r.d as possible and rip) young

growths tied in. Trees should be placed every 6 or 3 inches, and made firm without being so tight as to prevent the free flow of sap or allowing for the natural swelling of the wood. After pruning, gather up all prunings and destroy them.

PEEPABINGr SEED BEDS.

Soed-sowing plays such a large part in garden operations that it is well to mako jure that the beds where the seeds are to be sown are properly made and arranged to give the best results. For the raising of seed in spring, it is necessary that the beds should be in as sunny , position as possible, and that they should be sheltered from high winds. It may be nficcssary to supply shelter by means of fences, but it is useless to expect seedlings to prosper in position which are exposed, whero tender growth -will, be broken and bruised. Adequate drainage is also re^essary, and this is best provid for by raising the beds eight to ten inches above the level of the surrounding soil. If drainage is neglected much of the seed will rot, an-d even that -vhioh survives the cold waterlogged soil will produce weakly seedlings, which will be very liable to damp off. The ground must be well worked to a good depth with at least 6in of really fine soil on top. i!rEotted stablo manure is the best to use, but if unobtainable then thoroughly mix in some bonedust and soot,' with some rotted material from the 2-übbish heap. After forming the beds they should be allowed to remain for some time before sowing to allow them to settle down. Many failures with seeds might be traced to the seed beds being too loose; the ground should be firm without being hard. If the ground is dry 'I may be firmed with th flat of the rake or it may receive one or two waterings. This will help to consolidate it, and provided it has a fair amount of fibrous material in it, it will still be sufficiently porous. After watering leave it for some hours to allow the water to drain away, and then rake the surface over to loosen it up. It is always better to sow in drills very thinly. This makes the work of weeding and thinning less troublesome, and at the same time less damage is likely to be done to the young seedlings during the operation. The depth to sow must be regulated according to the size of the seed. Fine flow.r, feeds require very little, if any, covering, while larger ones, such as peas and bean's, may be buried 3in 6r 4in deep. It is a good plan to mix very fine seed with some sand or fine soil before sowing, while fluffy seeds like anemones should bo rubbed between the hands to remove the fluff and separate the seeds so that they will not be sown in clusters. For summer sowing the seed beds should be made in a shady place or shelter afforded from the blazing sun, which, is apt to dry, up the surface soil through evaporation. To prevent the young seedlings from being damaged by heavy rain's a fiover should be placed over the beds. This may easily be made by means of a rough frame of Cm boards, with a piece of light scrim or _ canvas stretched across. Light twiggy branches or some manuka scrub laid over the beds also acts as a protection, and at the same time will keep birds from scratching the seed out.