A NEW ENTERPRISE

Evening Post, Volume CX, Issue 156, 30 December 1925, Page 9

A NEW ENTERPRISE

OF NATIONAL IMPORTANCE

THE BRITISH MODEL HOUSE

LONDON TO LEAD THE WOBLD,

(From Oar Own Correspondent)

LONDON, 21st November.

Sir Henry Whitehead is chairman of a new enterprise of national importance, and it is to be hoped that the women of England will rally round him and hia directors. The latter are men of note in the textile world, and include Lord Baiaby, Colonel E. H. Foster, Messrs. L. Kaymond (managing director), W. H. Watson, J. Emsley, H. dough, A. E. Newsholme and A. Hitt The directorate urges textile manufacturers to support a movement which has been formulated to benefit textiles as a whole. :

Sir Henry tell* me he i*. firmly eonvinced that the project and aims of the British Model House are not only sound and practical, but are necessary to a solution of the problems which confrontsone of 'the great staple industries of Great Britain. Everyone who thinks is aware that the changes <rt fashion are matters of great importance to makers of textiles. The years since the war have shown up very clearly that the most serious flaw in the organisation of the British textile industry is that, while it produces the bulk of the clothes which are used to enhance womanly "beauty, it has had no point of direct contact with those who are the arbiters of fashion. The promoters seek to remedy this by building up an organisation which will enable London, to give an independent lead in the .world of fashion. At the moment there is little or no encouragement in this country to the thorough application of British art to textiles, but the establishment of' a British headquarters from which fashion decrees may be issued will inspire the' workers in the textile'industry atfd the • students of applied art to give of their best, because there will- be • a chance for -tangible recognition of their efforts.

It is becoming more than ever necessary that the manufacturer of fabrics should be kept in close touch with the fluctuations in demand for certain colours, certain type's; yf cloth, certain' designs. There is no sure' way of learniifg facts of immense importance, but by being, in touch with a centre where . the ' feminine taste is actually moulded; - . Itj js no Monger practical., to work by rule of thumb, or to;wait fpr'the closelyguarded secrets of the Bue de la Paix to be revealed. Naturally the textile centre that is geographically nearer, and sentimentally closer, to Paris gains the first hint ofrwoman's probable wishes for' the .ensuing season. There is no sound reason why. London as well as Paris may not speak authoritatively on these matters; indeed, it is all to. the advantage of British manufacturers that she should do so.

There must, however, a8( Sir Henry Whitehead say*, be united effort '' If we are to be successful in reaching thegoal there must be a working'part nersliip between the textile manufacturer and the' originator of fashion. There mast be complete confidence, ready co-operation, and frequent interchange of thought. And, .on its own side, that is precisely' what the British Model House seeks to supply. If manufacturers will realise the possibilities, of the scheme they will help the British Model House to reflect to the world Britain's status', almost; unrecognised at present, as a producer of the'world's finest textiles. In its turn this native headquarters of fashion will stimulate trade for us by creating a demand for British goods in all the' haunts of fashionable womanhood." : '

"NOT ALL PLAIN SAttWG."

■ Those who have initiated the project do not under-estimate the fight they will have to. make to secure recognition of the place of the new enterprise in the world of fashion. It will not be all plain sailing, but the manufacturers, can* help by seeing that the' whole resources of the textile and- allied industries are at their disposal. The most exquisite fabricsj the finest laces, the most beautiful ornaments that this country can produce, will be indispensable.. No effort most be spared to. make the designs issued second to none in the T-orld, and these designs must be carried out in materials that have no equal. No sirtgle firm can by its own unaided effort win for London the place she should occupy in the feminine mind. It can only be done if all who are concerned in* the production of the necessary materials will wholeheartedly and enthusiastically support the scheme. . " .' «,

Sir Henry is especially anxious thai ■when the British Model House opens with its spring collection of models — whieh in-fabric and design will owe nothing to foreign sources of fashion —it -will be possible to say with justice that; British brains have played no small part in bringing this London fashion centre into existence. While it is to . the' manufacturers of Great Britain that 'this, earnest appeal for practical support is addressed, the promoters hope that in the West Biding of Yorkshire it will specially be regarded as a point of honour to do all that. can..be done to bring, the scheme to fruition. In this way the long-desired prosperity may be brought again to British industry and British homes.

British fabrics can.be so beautiful and also practical that there should be no need to go abroad for them, while there aro doubtless many British artists who will be ablo to cvolvo new ideas when given the chance to do so. . MAGIC OF THE WOBD "FRENCH." At a session of the Board of Trade inquiry concerning conditions, in the | textile trade, Colonel Foster (Messrs. John/ Foster and. ■;■ Sons*: Limited, Queentsbury, near. Bradford) attributed idle looms to foreign .Competition, and said that he wu convinced they could not compete successfully until they had some, form of protection. "To-day," ho said, "our trade is a kind of retail trade. Where we used to get orders for 2QO, 300, and 400 pieces at a time, we now only get orders for 20 or 30. Indeed, we are getting orders for pieces which the French and other foreign competitors cannot supply immediately. "

Dume Helen Gwynnc-Vaughan asked whether, if Bradford got down to the level of the French article, they could produce it u cheaply. The

witness replied that it would be uneconomical; as tho Frenchman was prepared to accept more blemishes in native goods, because often if he made a fuss he would be "blacklisted" and the manufacturer would refuse to supply him. Dame Helen Gwynne-Vaughan: "Do you keep a black list "in Bradford!"—"We keep ti black list of the people with whom we do not care to deal, but there is no general list." Following the mannequin parade which Bradford manufacturers held at Wembley to advertise Bradford goods, they were now going to start a model house in London to show what Yorkshire could do.

The Chairman: "So that Wembley has done some goodt" The -witness: "Wembley has done a great deal of good for Bradford, for it was from the parade we derived the inspiration for a model house."

"Do you think there is any magic in the word 'French'l"—"There is a great deal of magic in it."

KEEN FOBEION COBiPETITION.

Mr; J. D. Low (chairman of Menra. Low, Bissell, and Sons, Limited) ■aid that the figures for the last two years showed that things were totally abnormal. The French were Britain's chief competitors, and he knew that they bad been running in some cases three shifts. To enable them to do this,,he alleged, they had imported for.ign labour. He did not agree that the French goods were of a lower standard than those of Bradford!

Mr. F. E. Merrall (of Messrs. Merrail and Sqns, Haworth, near Keigh,ley) said that in 1913 his firm had 600 looms. This number had fallen, to 317, pnlj 28 of which were running. The number of work-people in the weaving department had fallen from 500 in 1913 to 50. The depreciation in currency he regarded a3 unfair competition. There had been a great falling-off.in coatings. Dame Helen Gwynne-Vaughan: "How do you account for th? loss of trade 'in men's goods!' '—''There .is a decline all round." - "Men are ;buying fewer clothesT" .—'•■l"think .8.0.7" ' '. Mn E. W: Bovingdon (of Sir J. Behrens and Sons, merchants, Bradford) stated that at present they were absolutely beaten by Brench, Belgian, and Italian competitors, who were able to undercut Britain by 30 per cent. '. . , ' ■ 85, Fleet street.