PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 146, 21 June 1924, Page 15

PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

FACTS AND FANCIES.

(Written for "The Post" by "Germaine.") PARIS, 23rd April,

Paris is looking at its best, social events are following one upon another without interruption, and are all extraordinarily smart/ as if there were a general conspiracy to begin the season with a brilliant display of fireworks. Openirig with the Horse Show, the social season runs the gamut of innumerable fetea monduines, balls, receptions, musicals, .and polo and golf games, matinees aud soirees. Auteuil and Longchamps hold an important place among these gatherings of all that is most elegant in Paris, and Chantilly. becomes the centre of fashion on those days when its course is open. The paddocks of the racecourses are like a, court, at which '-lie artistocraties of money_, with beauty and high birth, are all Represented— a court where all women are queens, or, at, least, royal highnesses, in virtue of the grace and smartness of their dresses. And the moral of all this is that never in the year is the occasion more propitious of seeing the mode at its best, and seeing the elegant world of fashion more numerous than at present. And all these gatherings serve to crystallise the fashion and set before our eyes the latest choice of the mode. .J01 rOUS PARIS— WHERE THEY ■ DANCE. Never before has it been so forcibly borne upon me just how much a certain bearing and perfect self-satisfaction and unconsciousness can, get away, with the most brazen styles of dress. Some that I have seen dancing in a public room, and that the most chic and artistocratjc ballrooms of Paris, are truly alarming. There was, for instance, the woman in the golden sheath dress. To anyone who, like myself, is looking for all the latest whims of La Mode, she was arresting. The "heavy golden tissue wound round her body, every line of which was vividly shown, but when she began to dance the effect was positively shocking. Her make-up was also yellow, a pale yellow face, scarlet lips, blue and purple round her eyes, black eyebrows and eyelashes, and jet black hair, _ bobbed, but not shingled. This dancing frock should make most women pause and reflect when buying their dancing dresses. "Does this dress dance well?" would be a good question to ask oneself. A dancing frock should have a rather full skirt^taffetas, tulle, georgette, or marocain—and it should be rather short; in fact, for dancing purposes nothing beats the robe de style. It is smart, full, and becoming to almost any type of woman. THE NEW PARIS MILLINERY. It would seem that the Parisienne is at least becoming tired of the eternal "cloche"—the "cloche" that has pre--vailed like an epidemic for the last two years and more. All corners is the new spring hat—corners sharp and outstanding—it is the reign of the "marquis" chapeau. Made in faille, in satjn, or in straw, the new models we highly ingenious, and also highly becoming to the faces which they do not pretend to hide. Brown, in some warm dark shades, is the favourite, and with cne of these new models on her. head, madame is able once more' to display her well-marked eyebrows and her curling lashes, and her eyes gain in expression by the change. The most daring of the new hats is a large shape with a bold brim, a new sort of marquis, but more after the style of the hats worn by the "dogeresses" of old, These hats are completed by a soft black lace veil exactly copied from the pictures one'sees of Venetian ladies in the days of the Doges. The veil is fastened on either side of the brim in front, farms a sort of chin strap, and falls over the dress. And it is most immensely becoming.

VOGUE OF BRIGHT COLOURS.

Strong bright colour is the chief feature of the great spring displays in the leading city shops; there is colour in everything—clothing, furnishing, and decoration. It gives novelty to women's handkerchiefs, to scarves, and even to dressee, and some fine examples of batik, as applied to these articles, are- to be seen in the glass cases. Printed foulard is the leading material, and as the season advances . delightful new trin> mings will be made of cut flowers and toilot-deguay patterns cut out, and over-embroidered with o!d gold or ■silver metallic threads. It is interesting to learn that chessboard and plaid woollen materials -will be used thi» jammer,

brocaded, and printed in many styles of colour and^ design, putting the plain dark materials of past seasons in the shade. Red in all shades will be much in demand. But dark blue cannot be ousted, nor dark blue serge. We are entitled to our serge again, and dark blue ad libitum.

AFTERNOON DRESSES IN PLENTY.

There are afternoon dresses in plenty, all of them gay and simple, bright flowered muslins, with flowing skirt draperies, and softly-falling capes and collars on the bodice. Cool green crepe is much seen thisyear, and makes up into charming little afternoon frocks, with long, aose-ntting sleeves and a belt made of roses in the material.

These dresses are more for the jeune fille. For the older women there are wonderful black satin dresses in fulgurante and in crepe satin. They are usually made quite plain, and" have long close-fitting sleeves and a tiny decolletee of the square-shaped order, en coeur. Sometimes, these closely-fitting dresses are embellished with inset see" tions of some beautiful embroidery, in a contrasting colour, and usually of Chinese or Japanese persuasion. There are coats that accompany these frocks, they are lined with colour and trimmed with ostrich feather fringe or marabout. Capes are well done, and there are many lingerie collars. Coloured handkerchiefs are to the fore, and nearly tvery tailor suit sports a flower in its bottonhole, generally a beautiful sham flower—a carnation, a rose, or even a single narcissus, but sometimes a stiffer flower in white kid stitched on to the coat is preferred. THE ROSE OF FASHION.

Just as the rose has always been the favourite of poets, more eloquent than any other in the language of poetry, so it is most generously used by designers now for costume accessories for evening gowns. One clever Paris house drifts scattered petals over the entire frock, generally of tulle persuasion. Garlands •of roses,, too, falling gracefully from the shoulder to waistline, and outlining draperies of tulle and lace, give a de° lightfully youthful and pristine appearance. A gown simple of line and colour may be almost magically transformed by two glowing roses nestling upon its corsage, or assented by a singular combination of white lilac sprays with pink roses in a slender cluster at the waistline.