GARDENING NOTES

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 140, 14 June 1924, Page 17

GARDENING NOTES

PRUNING FRUIT TREES

ADVICE FOR THE AMATEUR.

(By "Practical.")

To deal with this subject fully would require much more space than can be allotted in this column. Tha main points, however, may be dealt with here and general directions given. Very largely the art of pruning is a ' matter of experience, but, although many methods are adopted and advocated by different growers, the principles are practically the same in all cases. As mentioned last week, tho primary object of pruning is to produce a well-balanced tree capable of bearing the maximum crop of good fruit, and it is generally recognised that the ideal shape is one which resembles a basin' with a stem. A tree trained to such a shape gets the maximum amount of sunshine, which is necessary for the maturing of the wood and ripening of the fruit. A wellshaped tree should have three, or at the most four, evenly-spaced branches. These main branches should be cut hard back, when planted, to about a foot long, always cutting to an outside bud, except natural tendency to spread, such as B_rbank plums, and these should be cut to buds pointing upwards. The main branches will in all probability be of unequal growth, and it would be obviously wrong to .prune all alike. Weak growths should be pruned back harder than strong one 3to two or three eyes— elm harder the pruning the stronger the growth. To maintain the balance of the tree it is necessary to prune the main arms also fairly hard at the secend year's pruning. If the trees are doing well, this will induce fruit spurs to. form.-

After the second season very little pruning should be necessary except to shorten weak growths and cut back latrals and shoots from the inside of ths branches, and any. which cross others. These should all be cut back to ona pye or bud. Branches which form and grow in tha desired direction should be shortened back to two eyes.' Pears generally have much . stronger growth than apples, but general principles of pruning are the same. Plums are inclined to tßrow long slender arms the first season, and should therefore, for the first two seasons, be pruned rather hard to induce the tree to produce stout branches capable of carrying the crops of fruit without, breaking. Having built up a good stout, well-shaped tree, pruning should not be co hard on plums, as hard pruning would .tend to cause them to grow rank. Apples, pears, and plums bear fruit on spurs formed en the old wood, and so long, as these we uninjured, and the tree remains healthy, crops should be produced every favourable season. . 1 caches and nectarines should be pruned as apples and pears the first two years, with the object of getting a well-balanced tree, with stout branches, -the fruit is borne on the growth of the' previous season, consequently the aim, once the tree is formed, should be to prune in such a way as to maintain sufficient young fruit-bearing wood without disturbing the balance of the tree. _ During summer growths . should be thinned and pinched back to prevent the centre becoming overcrowded. Apricots, like peaches, bear on one-year-old wood, and. also on spurs two or more years old. Being vigorous growers, they should be summer pruned as well as receiving ths ordinary winter pruning, with the object of having strong, sturdy branch es instead of weak straggly ones. .Established'. trees, which- are in bear-' ing of whatever variety of fruit should require very little pruning beyond what may be necessary to maintain the balance of the trees and the removing of any decayed wood . and superfluous growths. Always keep the centres of the tress open. All cuts, should be clean and as close above a bud as possible.' A priming knife thoroughly sharp is the , best tool to use onco the operator has become expert, but it is not the easiest thing to.use correctly, therefore, a sharp ■ pair of secateurs is more generally satisfactory for the amateur. Whichever tool is used be sure it is thoroughly : sharp Always remove all dead wood and decayed branches first of all, and then make a comprehensive survey of the tree and decide what branches are to he left; and which must be removed At nrst the operation will seem some-, what intricate, and tho tendency will be to leave far too much growth, but practice will soon make prunine a: simple matter. j

SWEET- PEAS'AND BULBS. I In warm situations sweet peas may be ! sown in well-prepared soil, but it must bo born in mind that these flowers to do well require deeply-worked ground where they can get their -roots well down. It is well to protect their youn" plants from birds by stretching black, cotton along the rows when .they aro sown, and as soon as they show through the ground a dusting of lime or soot will keep away slugs and snails j Gladiolus bulbs should all be out of .the ground by now (the large summerflowering varieties), but if some still re- ' main no- time should be lost in lifting : them. ■ It does not matter if the tops are stilT green, they should be lifted and dried off, leaving the foliage to die down naturally. This can be cut off later : any time before replanting. When lifting be sure and get all the small bulbs out of ths ground Dahlias should be lifted and stored in any dry, airy place, where they will be '■ protected from frost. Under, a tree or i hedge does very well. Remove the tops caving about three inches of stem and label carefully if ifc is wished to keep the varieties separate. Heuchera clumps may be divided up now. . These plants, which are ever green, make a splendid edging for beds or borders. While being dwarf in habit the flower spikes grow to a height' offrom ten to fourteen inches. This plant might well be grown amongst other sub lecte, as tho blossoms are light and feathery. This is a very useful flower lor nouse decoration, lasting well when

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. Continue the planting of fruit trees' whenever the weather permits, and the land is m suitable condition. Be sure to cut back any. torn or broken roots and allow sufficient space in the holes for tho roots to be spread out.- Xet the roots have, a slight downward tendency by leaving a mound of soil in £he centre hole. This makes the tree much steadier and less liable to damage by movmg about in windy weather. Raspberries should be planted as soon as possible. .These do best in a cool moist (position and good rich soil suits them well; in fact, the ground can hardly be over-manured for . raspberries. Be sure and cut the canes well back when planting—to within a foot of the ground is quite long enough to, leave them. Good strong suckers from the old plants make the best bushes.

Autumn-sown green peas should have the earth drawn up round them to make them secure against damage by wind. A dustiug o£ lina» or soot along the

rows as a protection against slugs and snails should be supplied, while some method should be adopted to keep the birds away from the young growth, which they seriously damage otherwise. ■ .. »