PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

Evening Post, Volume CVII, Issue 82, 5 April 1924, Page 15

PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

FACTS :•'AND: FANCIES.

(Written for "The. Post.") (By "Germaine.")

PARIS, 6th February.

I wonder why it is that people—women especially—seem, to have lost the gracious act of laughing? The utmost they ttem to permit, themselves nowadays, is a frigid or condescending smile.

The Salon dcs Independents is open? I went there on Varnishing Day.. The crowd was terrific. Thank Heaven that it was, for it prevented me from getting too close to some of the awful messfcs that were spread over the walls! Terrific things. Coloured nightmares, monstrous, distorted shapes I Seen from afar they horrified me. I am afraid I shall never understand "dadaists," cubists, impressionists, and other-ists—for so far, 1 have never found anyone who can explain them. One picture, a coloured nightmare with' a vengeance, was supposed to be funny. . . everyone sniggeredr .Only .sniggered,- for, as I say above, people-don't laugh nowadays.

A NAVY BLUE SEASON 'PROPHES- : '■; -IEDi. Rumour has been promising a navyblue season, and a renewed popularity for this smartly serviceable colour, which /ivould sooii' put black and brown and gre^n .quite ,into, the background.. But, m,reality (at.'the.Varnishing of the Salon de Independents, the" other day), I only saw one navy-blue costume, and this was a.tailleur.in kasha drap, brightened by a narrow 'trimming of emerald green patent leather. The whole effect was certainly very good,' but 'still •it 'could not compare in, smartness : with any of the dozens of all-black, and,' all brown, and allgreen tailleurs, which stood out so distinctively ."among, the. .crowd; the only real, rivals of these one-coloured schemes being 'the coat-frpcks. and wraps, which were, absolutely covered: with multi-col-oured embrpideries of silk and wool, and .then finished off at neck and hem with. fur. . Afterwards, .the same afternoon, at a The Dansant at the Carlton, I saw any .number of all-black- gowns, simple, straight, .and sleeveless—and only one full-skirted dress—a grey foulard with a patterning in-orange arid black, and ,a trimming of ruched black taffetas ribbon edging the round neck of. the loiigwaisted bodice, and-the outstanding hem. of the skirt. .This was worn with a lit-, tie black hat —all the hats were small .by the way—and a narrow crown-bandim' of silver finished off at the left side in a smart, very' stiff cockade. And I was also much interested to recognise—in that pretty actress Mile Parysis—the lovety original of the heroine in that popular sketch "La Fleur d'Oraiiger" at the Gpmedie. Caumartin.^ She wa's wearing the simplest;; of i-yellow georgette. gpwns> with a big' .black Velvet hat; but the most wonderful diamond necklace, and > an almost .matchless, emerald ring. VARIETY-;-IS A FEATURE OF: THE SPRING. OPENINGS. ":" I am-still looking at clothes tfith the English ■ and American:. buyers.- I sit in a row on a chair,too high for me, and my fate so often approaches that of Eli

Smart tallleur, In heavy black satin. The panelled skirt is of. a . good length, and the three-quarter coaf exceedingly smart. ' The pockets give- a decorative element, and the cuffs and the collar.are also exceedingly interesting. •

that I tremble at the thought that some day I shall fall from my too high stool. .What have I seen? 'In.spite of the jieat 'in the rooms, in spite: of the people, the noise, the passing t 0 and fro of lovely mannequins, I have seen enough to jot down a few1 remarks.. The couturieres are making quite lovely things. ; They seem to have a true conception of the modern girl and. her needs. And they also know those of the middle-aged, smart, cosmopolitan woman. Simplicity rules the roost. The straight line holds its own generally ,■ skirts are wide enough to walk in and sit in; the line is slim and simple, with some hip draperies over-skirts flare. Then, there are dresses co suit every individual type of woman. There are also dresses for young girls —very nice, neat little frocks, a thought prim, but' smart withal!. Good, practical clothes that can be worn anywhere together with filmy.--little; evening dresses with draperies floating about- them, dreamy, little nothings, which soften and dp not - encumber. . There is • nothing original in anything, but the juste milieu between originality and dullness is evident; ...

THE WAISTLINE-. AND SLEEVES.

The waistline, hovers 'undecidedly between the natural and freakishly fashionable—which is not far-above the knees! Sleeves are. either-conspicuous by their absence or cover the ;arm with glovefitting closeness from.shoulder to wrist, other varieties breaking, oiit below the elbow into an unexpectedly puffed fullness, which,-however,.is soon restrained again by a tightly-fastened wristband, Ako, there are tome shortjleevea, often

of a contrasting material, and-sometimes edged with fur. . .

•• Skirt draperies are frequently gathered togethe^in front in Oriental fashion. Ac saw this mode last season, but this year it promises to become1 even more lashionable. The draperies are " sometimes arranged in a straightly-hanging apron effect, or a, tunic, witli bordering godet flounces, this fullness in front being- in marked contrast to the plain and closely-indrawn back—a truly trying outline for any but the slimest of the slim, though on the right— and supple aud slender—figure the effect can1 be quite fascinating I, assure you. ■

WONDERFUL RIBBONS, AS USUAL. As usual, wonderful ribbons are receiving special attention. They will be used fpr'bodices, and where some dresses are concerned to indicate the waistline, and are ' ratlier more partial to silver, than to gold in their use of metals.' One striking pattern shows a spray of lilies of the valley embroidered in silver on a green and brown striped background. Green is considered an excellent colour for the coming spring season. That waistcoats are more to be considered than ever is conformed by a ■novelty wlijeh consists of a'large square of moire or satin ribbon, in white or pale colours, with the two fronts and the pocket flaps of a real Louis XVI. waistcoat, either printed or embroidered upon it by hand. '