ENGLISH FASHIONS

Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 126, 24 November 1923, Page 15

ENGLISH FASHIONS

The revival of many fascinating oldworld modes will certainly find its b-#t expression in the realm of dinner and dance frocks. In dress studios the interest of the moment seems centred in the problem of how models can adopt the bustle and the crinoline, but it may be taken for granted that neither of these items of fashion will bear much resemblance to their laughable prototypes Both exist as whims, but in a vastly dif^ ferent form, for ridicule quickly kills and the modern woman would not be hampered by either hoops or horsehair. Some of the newest ball-dresses exhibit unusual draperies and very lovely colour combinations; the more "bouffant" skirts, too, are here, and they are always delightful to dance in. Several girlish gowns are profusely embellished with ribbon-work, and most dainty and uncommon are the floral decorations on ethereal fabrics. Taffetta, georgette, chiffon, and tiny-patterned and embroidered silks and satins are all materials that lend themselves to the fuller skirts. Early nineteenth century shades are also popular — Victorian yellows, greens, pinks, and blues. The shot effects in taffeta are always lovely and many of the old-world and somewhat "starchy" fabrics are reproduced by the modern manufacturers, made up into the most supple creations. ■

There will be a, great deal of velvet seen, next winter for both day and evening occasions, and the indications are that it will be a more popular mode than ever.

Although for all occasions the long coats and big cake manteaux are advocated, there are also innumerable attractive models to be seen in short walking coats made in mole, Persian lamb, Alaska seal, mink, and grey and brown squirrel. Skunk collars and cuffs look well on a slim sealskin coat. Some models are cut straight, others are pouched and belted after the Russian style. Beaver, like sealskin, has been revived from Victorian days, and has surpassed in favour the former substitutes of nutria and seal-musquash. The modern treatment of our expert furriers largely accounts for its springing into a foremost place among fashionable, furs. Both beaver and seal make attractive little capes—old-world pelerines and mantles; and the pelt is. so soft and short that they also provide a becoming trimming. The old-fashioned grey squirrel, too, is very effective when worked to full advantage. There is no doubt that the flat furs are good, both as trimmings and for the narrower short walking coatsi : .

The autumn coat and skirt will be seen | in gabcord serge, covert-coating, woolreps, marocains, duvetyns-de-laines, and velours. Flannels and tweeds, soft and light in weight, but practical and in; very wearable shades, will also be used to much advantage. The house of Lucile is making a great feature of ultrasimple walking suits for town, in addition to their specialities for sports wear, worn with plain felt or ribbon hats to> correspond. These suits pre straight and slim of line, their design achieving the silhouette that is characteristic of the present-day mode. English firms have been exhibiting brown in all tones; —from palest beige to darker nigger. One useful model was carried out in henna kasha, faced and bound with a fancy jacquard in" a nigger tone, and worn with a very smart and very new swathed turban in the same shades.

Lucile has been showing in London an ingenious combination of the tunic and hobble skirt. .The skirt of to-day, however narrow and tight it may appear, has a number • of disguised pleats or tucks that allow of plenty of movement. Over the skirt is arranged the coat, with a slight "flare" below the hips, and so the smartest note in the new "tailleurs" is achieved. The same cunning is applied to the "flounced" effects. The flounced skirts are mostly arranged in three or five tiers, the fronts being generally plain or pleated. The corsage (long and slim) is joined by a cash of its own fabric, into which a touch of Oriental embroidery is often introduced, especially in the case of the navy style.