ENGLISH FASHIONS

Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 48, 25 August 1923, Page 18

ENGLISH FASHIONS

There is much talk about a "changing silhouette" nowadays, and-in reference to this, an English writer says:—"Even though a few picturesque and period models appear, and there is much talk of the crinoline, a survey of Ascot and the best of the season's fashions in general showed that the most successful frocks and coats revealed the straight, classic lines, with innumerable variations in drapery, but in the main adhering to. the narrow, slim silhouette. Further, it would seem from glimpses of the newest fur and cloth wraps that these again will be more or less the. favourite vo^ue for the early autumn. In any case, even should evening frocks be of more fantastic genre, the wraps of to-day and to-morrow are inclined to be long and graceful." Another writer discusses on street wear, as follows :—"Since the comforting fiat has gone forth that imitation peltry is more modish this season than the genuine article, there has been air outbreak of 'fur' cloths, beaver fur clotb being the leading favourite. Its soft suppleness is very appealing, and when a short Russian coat expressed in this accommodating material is finished with a 'pukka' skunk collar—economically salvaged, perchance, from an old-fashioned long coat—you have a garment, handsomely lined, of course, with good brocade, that you will want to 'live in.' Short baby lamb coats are another expression of the new mode, though I imagine the present exaggerated vogue for imitation white astrachan will be shortlived. One hopes so! Sleeves for the short coats are nearly all the modified bell shape. Uncompromising sacs, Russian boleras, girdled waists, with rather flaring hip line; a fitting short coat buttoned from throat to waistline, with a flaring shoulder-cape; you may take your choice of any of these styles, and know yourself a meek disciple of La Mode. Velvet frocks, with short broadcloth coats have their own following. These frocks are severely simple, many of them exploiting the doubtful charm of the ' chokev ' collar, which preserves the unbroken line from throat to hem that characterises some of the latest models, this severity Ipeing relieved by a side-front ' saah ' panel, drooping below the already much-lengthened hem. The narrowest of these narrow black sill: braid encircles the choker 1 collar in multiple rows, the same' alignment being continued down the pide of the frock, for its entire length, broken only by the similarly trimmed sash panel. Though some exaggeratedly smart models appear in the ateliers, the most popular sports wear is undoubtedly the knitted woollen suit. For the Parisienne who plays prettily at le sport the over-elaborate capo effects, with the sleeves a continuation of the cape back, will present no inconvenience. But for the strenuous sportswoman these picturesque, but unpractical, garments, are not the ideal conception of a sporting garment. And for real smartness—the smartness dictated by appropriateness to the occasion—the knitted woollen suit completely fills the bill., Whether for golf or smart country wear, the 'marl' pattern is the most'chic, and has the additional advantage of keeping its air of pristine newness much longer than a one-colour woolly. Marl stockings tc match are worn/with the little woollen suit, and suede hats are more fascinating than ever, besides being obtainable in' endless colour schemes." 4