PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

Evening Post, Volume CVI, Issue 48, 25 August 1923, Page 18

PARIS IN THE LOOKINGGLASS

(Written for "The Post."

(By "Germaine.")

■'■■■■ PARIS, 28th June. The curious thing about the sale of the late Divine Sarah's jewels was that none of them was intrinsically; worth, the price they fetched. Sentiment sent the bids soaring to their high level, and drove the dealers to the doors. Quaintbracelets, that no woman would give more than a few francs for, if they Were; offered in a shop window, changed hands m the Galeries Georges Petit in prices varying between one thousand and two thousand nine.hundred france. They may even become a vogue. Slender wrists may soon be burdened with heavy' metal serpents and creamy arms' encircled with flat bands of filigree work. It is strange what a passion Sarah had for dolls! I saw them all, ais they lay m their glass case at the Georges Petit LraHeneE, and certainly they did not impress, me as anything very wonderful. But nowadays dolls have become such beautiful "creations, that one looks for something hors de hgne, when it comes tova collection of dolhes belonging to a great actress known for her taste in art, furniture, and clothes. By the way, the last time I saw Sarah Bernhardt was at the first performance of Louis Verneuil's— her grand-son-in-law—play, "Regine £rmaud," at the Theatre Bernhardt. The Divine One" appeared in the title role. -I remember thinking how wonderful she looked, and-with what indomitable spirit she smiled defiance at the passing years. In the play, Regine Armaud is an actress, and we see her in her dressing-room, at the theatre. An ■ old actor comes to . tell her that he has been for forty years in her company, that he is old, tired, that he wishes to resign. . . "What for?" asked Regine, through the medium of Sarahs golden voice. "Thou art not yet senile, • art thou?" "No. „ . but I.am over seventy years of age. . . . I would like to rest." "To rest? What .does that mean? Thou art hale :and hearty?" "But you, Madame? Will you never rest? , :. ." And the "Divine One" smiled the tender, slow smile that stirred : her audience almost as deeply as he^ voice. "I shall rest some day. . .' she murmured. "We shall all rest . . , some day!" This performance was a triumph for the ."Divine. One," and, as the last curtain fell on one of the finest death scenes she had ever acted, tout Paris stood madly applauding, trying to convey a little of the love and tender homage that •we all felt for Notre Sarah. ■ '■'" LACE, THE: RAGE IN PARIS. ' Some people have an idea that no lace is of any use/that has not been -Worn.by an ancestor, and taken out •of [an-.old; trunk, smelling- faintly- of musk or. pot pourri-of sandal wood. It must rbe Yellow, like old ivory, and. must have a history, which begins at the Court of Queen Anne and ends'at the coronation of • Queen' Victoria.'' But which of us 'possesses sufficient old Jace to make a' dress? Nowadays, it js the : entire lace ;frock that,' we ■■ require, so^'- of, course, jtowe/haveii't-it, .weonusf turn-our at-' stention to' .the modern laces. And 'the modern laces are so beautiful! If I did mot-run the chance •of being called ,a '■ Philistine—and ' any woman would . ■rather--be called a murderer, or a liar," Ithan - a Philistine; wouldn't they ?—I - should jsay' thatthe modern lace-makei= have beatetf our ancestors at the game. •Between;ourselves;'.l,may tell you, that ;I ;'ha-ve-seejn-new patterns for the aut-umn;-yet unknown te history, and, like ;the'Queen ofSheba, when Solomon deliberately' set himself to emphasise the -fact that.. She.ba, compared to Israel, ■was. a very little.; out of the way,; I broke "the last of. the Ten Conimand.ments. I'haye seen'the very'last thing in lace; It. has >a satin finish, and lights up at night, till"the, white and oyster ;and gris^blanc of the dentelle have the effect of bars- of, moonlight, while the

design is that of the old Point d'Angleterre. It is a beautiful thing, so beautiful that I registered a, mental vow to have a gown made of "it, most certainly before 1923 has run its course. , JFBOCKS OP LACE. ! Fashion could not have decreed a more charming vogue for summer festivities than the dressy frocks of lace. These are developed along the unusual style lines, also using vivid touches of colour. Bright as . are many of the colour schemes for the summer '-wardrobe, the pastel shades are not without their charm, some of which are .delicately interpreted in the less vibrant tones. There is no accounting for the liberties, that -French designers will take with laces and drapable soft silks, proof of which lis brought out in a most faeciaatinj' sfterooon frock of «cru lilk

lace and; caramel coloured mousseline. A lace mset peeps out in front, and shows more in the back, where a bow artistically arranged above flour flounces, declares semblance to the erstwhile bust tut'r, Th! s 2 reßS is *» Preparation tor the Grande Semaine" at Deauville. YELLOW EVENING WEAR. Yellow is very much in the picture where evening dresses are concerned. One-sees it in gauze, with silver interwoven, to make a full skirt to an evening bodice of dull silk, almost closefitting, and over which falls a round silver lace collar a la Moftesquieu-. Another popular evening dress consists 'of a slip of brilliant gold tissue, over which falls in graceful folds a simple little one-piece frock of brilliant marigold yellow ninon. Most of the evenin" dresses are rich in material, and somewhat stately, unless made specially ■ for girls, when they are full and dainty. PRINTED CREPES. Printed crepes are still very much in vogue. Bright little handkerchiefs aye knotted about the shoulders and hips on girlish frocks, and a charming drees is made in blonde crepe, with coloured impressions. Very, original is a seaside sports dress in w^ite serge, with which is worn a narrow sash of bright coloured printed crepe, which is laid between the folds of the waist draperies on the skirt. Short sleeves are aa much seen as long one 3. The waistline is never fixed, it is changed to suit gown and the figure of the woman for whom •it is made. The Paris couturier believes that line is the secret of good dressing, and, whether she designs a tailor-made or an evening dress, that is what she aims at. Her' picture dresses are always true to documents, and this had made her, the trusted friend of actresses in real drama. - DRESSY WRAPS FOR SUMMER EVENINGS. Dressy wraps for summer evenings are as charming in the way they are developed as the sumptuous opera coats were for the season that is over. White silk crepe is used in combination with white monkey fur, and black monkey ■fur is also used, on not only the white crope wraps, but is seen on some of the smartest bright shades in the various types of capes which are now featured for summer wear.