PARIS IN THE LOOKING GLASS

Evening Post, Volume CIV, Issue 73, 23 September 1922, Page 16

PARIS IN THE LOOKING GLASS

FASHIONS AND FANCIES

(Written for "The Post. 1')

GAVARNIE, 9th August, 1922,

Here I am, dear people, in a quiet corner, "far from the maddening crowds," and blessing my stars that I am no. longer in the Gay City, where the dust lies inches deep on the boulevards, and the win-dows are all shuttered. Have you ever heard of Gavarnie? My bedroom, with a large balcony attached, looks out across the garden over the whole valley, from the northern gate towards Lourdes. Just at present, I consider this the most beautiful view in the world, but I daresay it is only j because I lov» it. I know of few gardens I like better than the little long-grassed wilderness below my window. An old flight of steps leads down from the house into a patch of green, in which everything imaginable grows. Here are a few of the things I can count from where 1 sit: WiUows, palms, bamboos, laurels, yellow irises, wistaria, Scottish firs, pears, hazels, walnuts, chestnuts, and rose. There are quantities of other things, including a gorgeous tree with a thick, heavy purple and white blossoms, rather like a giant wistaria, but I have no idea what they are. At the bottom- of my -delectable garden is a tiny stream about ■ ten feet wide. There is a bridge over it, and a bench on the bridge, and I know no nicer place

Tha tllhcusito, that Is Japanese In oplrlt, is stili much patronised by Mme. La Mode. Tho illustration, grey-green aatin,-aoft and indefinite in colour and embroidered in mauva roses, and with a mauSro collar, cuffs, and skirt trimmings, arul a twisted oeintura of the Gems, form a delightful en3amble. These soft colourings are unusually flattering to white o'Ain and Irish complexion.

to sit and watch the dying gold and cirmson of suaset fade ofi the tops of the mountains, and the cool darkness flooding the valley from the eastern p-sa-ks. The little nver is only about a yard deep, but it tears along in the most terrific hurry, as if it were the Rhone itself, and the big islands of yellow iris are kep? in a constant state oi agitation. i There is a water rat which lives under the bridge, and the bushes at the water's edge are full of thrushes and blackbirds, who sing very good glees to the lively accompaniment of the little river Schrzo. I wonder how I'm ever going to go away and back to fashions again, although they are so beautiful and interesting! Still, quelque fois, vous savez. A LULL IN THE FASHIONABLE WORLD. Just now there is a lull in the fashl ionable world. There are no fashions that count for anything to be seen in Paris. The smart Parisienne is away at the sea, or taking a cure at some inland spa, snatching a little rest and freedom before she faces the fatigue of the winter season. The dressmakers of the Rue de la Paix are working feverishly behind doors that are barred and bolted against all intruders. Not an inkling can you gleam as to the coming fashions when talking to the August potentates.- Were it not for the manufacturer, it would be difficult to; gauge whether we shall be I expected to wear muslin or sackcloth, j coats of mail or chiffon next winter. | So fickle is fashion that she is capable j of commanding us to wear the most freakish of costumes without offering us the semblance of an apology. Should she decree that skirts go up, every woman will put up her skirts without ap- j parently ever glancing at .her ankles.' But skirts are going down, weSmow that much, anyway, although waists are j travelling in the opposite direction. Only one benefit do I perceive of this relentless following of fashion by women, and that is when fashion reveals her shortcomings, a woman is forced to try and overcome them, or look oldfashioned in the attempt. A few years ago it was not considered " nice " for a woman to show her ankles. Should clothes become gloriously less and less, as some people propiiesy, women ought at last to become walking examples of a cultivating art. VABIETY IN SLEEVES. . That all-important matter of skirt; lengths as settled. Our skirts are to' be I longer. But the matter of their actual length depends on individual taste, neat feet and ankles being loth to make any change, while les autres hasten to be ultra-fashionable. The waistline will be au naturel when the autumn modes arrive. This fact is also certain. But it is in.the sleeve that we may expect some dramatic surprises. New ones will appear like mushrooms overI night. As soon as fashion gets a bit in ! its mouth it runs away from the public. As the individual is as prolific as a professional in ■designing new arm coverings, there is no limit to what may be done. So slight uro the actual changes in the fundamentals of frocks, such as length of skirt, uso of fabric, placement ■of waistline, fullness of hip, arrangement of hem, that women and dressmakers feel they can dismiss anxiety about thq main lliing and expend imagination arid ingenuity on the accessories— which explains the orgy of new sleeves. LONG SLEEVES OR SHORT? Women should bo really happy over this turn of events. They never find that a sleeve is beyond their ability to construct. They are never so satisfied as when they arc using up odds and ends, combining colour*, putting lace or embroidery into- small places to give effect. To-day they have their heart's desire. It is not necessary to bo conventional in sleeves. No celebrity ever lived whoso Hfui i-.o.vi!fiugu 'arc 1 not of import- ' ance. Even IV august Dyges of Venka

give inspiration. The designees have led the way. The amateur finds no stumbling block in her path. It matters not whether the arm is covered or revealed, whether the fabric is full or narrow, whether it is plain or adorned, whether it is long or short. There is no limitation, do what you will. There are capes for sleeves. This is a departure from the conventional. After the Hindou sleeve started every woman to drooping her arm drapery into her soup, the butcher's cuff and a cape sleeve have now started their mad career. So, Mesdames, you can't complain that there's no real novelty, can you? And if you murmnr that there is too much of the new idea about, what with curious sleeves, lengthened skirts, and heightened waistlines, you are right also. It takes all sorts to please a world. ORIGINALITY THAT COUNTS. Lingerie is always an attractive subject. Originality counts in lingerie, more than in the toilette, if possible. When coloured lingerie is chosen, this is best embroidered in white or some contrasting colour. White should be worked on white. Let a ribbon or an embroidered moiiogramme provide the note of colour.