ATTACK ON EVEREST

Evening Post, Volume CIII, Issue 53, 4 March 1922, Page 5

ATTACK ON EVEREST

SUPREME AMONG MONSTERS

SANGUINE HOPES OF SUCCESS,

(riton our own coAnispoNSMr.)

LONDON, 18th January,

Mr. George L. Mallory, who led last year's expedition to "Mount Everest, and who was a master at Charterhouse, is giving a series of illustrated lectures in London and the provinces in aid of the funds for the expedition' soon to set out under Brigadier-General the Hon. C. G. Bruce. On the whole, he seemß hopeful that the great climb to the top of the earth may be achieved this year.

EVEREST'AS IT IS. Mr. Mallory explained that the object of' the expedition was not only to surmount Everest, but to map and survey the unknown lands to. the north and west of it. That possibility \wbb due to the kindly permission sf the Thibetans. He illustrated the work of the climbers by some suggestive word-pictures and by pictures of a more graphic kind thrown on the screen. The photographs showed Mount Everest exactly .as smaller photographs have shown, it—not a3 a sugar-loaf peak, but as a mighty heaving head and shoulder above the long body of a resting lion. "Pile the Matterhorn on the top of Mount EVerest,'' said Mr. Mallory, and it would not disturb it. Everest has no spire, no spikes, or towers. It is majestic, massive, impressive." Describing the difficulties which confronted the party in the choice of a route, he pointed out that politically Nepal was not possible," as travellers were still not allowed to cross its borders. Therefore, they had to pass through countries or native states belonging to British India. As a consequence they had to go through Sikfcim. Enlarging on the beauties of Sikkim, he drew a wonderful picture of the tropical and sub-tropical vegetation, bird and insect life, found there, and "great . butterflies fluttering about like dead leaves in the wind—only they were not dead—butterflies as big as one's hand, mosses and luxuriant verdure, flowers of rioh and glowing colours, and whole meadpws covered with deep purple primulas." It was in striking contrast to the later journeyings. The route was > then taken from Kampa Dzong across the plains and along the # flat swampy valley of the Yarn, with the snow chain of the Himalayas to the south. The wonderful Buddist monastery at Shekar Dzong was visited in passing, and a picture showing the old abbot of Shekar-tcgode prompted the observation thai it was easy to recognise the ecclesiastical type of features, a remark which the audience was not slow to appreciate.

It was interesting to hear that prices of transport'and coolies have not gone up as much in Thibet as the prices of labour in England, "Nor will they as long as Colonel Howard Bury is there!" (Laugh- - A HOPEFUL SIGN. Describing his first view of Everest,' Mr. Mallory said he was often asked, "Doee it look as big as it ought to look?" "In my experience," he added, "mountains dod not much care how they Jock. It depends upoa atmospheric conditions, and so on, how they look to the observer, but I think there is no doubt that Everost does appear a great mountain. It is a great mas 3 rising out of the range without a rival,' and • two other, /giants rising 24,000 and 25,000 feet are' not noticed against Everest. It rises supreme even amongst such monsters." "Have we yet seen a way to the top of the mountain?" asked Mr. Mallory. "Well, we think we have. Wo have eliminated the whole of the western side, including the western peak. But we hope Ito get to the north-eastern peak. From that arete the mountain is set back at a considerable angle. To trie .experienced eye it seems possible to get up on that side. That is a hopeful sign. All that side is a limb of the mighty mountain." One of the worst objects to be contended with was quite near the summit, where there was a very steep snow slope. From a mountaineering point of view he thought it might be said that there were probably no difficulties that would deter a,strong party if the difficulties were met with in tho Alps, but it was far different when they were met with in the Hima-< layas. The weather had to be taken very much • into account^ but in that matter this year's party would be undpubtedly better off than was the case last year. The great aim. would be to start early and get the work done before the monsoon set in, and ho had little doubt that if that were possible better conditions would be met with. Then there was the question of health and the ability of a Irian to carry loads above a certain elevation, afTd in that 'matter ho did not think that any observations they made la6t year proved that it was impossible for them to do so above 24,000 ft. By a system of relays it might be possible to establish a high forward camp at 26,000 ft, which was essential if the mountain was to be climbed. Ho had sanguine hopes that as a result of their labours a, way to the top of Everfest had been discovered.

Brigadier-Gener*f Bruoe explained that H was entirely on $he reconnaissance work of laefc year that their hopes of this year's work were based. After .what had been done and discovered tHe conquest of Everest did not seem to present insuperable difficulties. , ■

Members of tho coming expedition include Dr. Somarvell, Colonel Strutt, Cag.tain Norton, and Captain G. J. Fincfc"