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GARDENING NOTES

(By "Experience.") THE VEGETABLE GARDEN,

There is very little in the way of planting or sowing that is strictly seasonable at 'the ' present time. Sowing turnips and spinach for winter use and lettuce for succession is all the sowing necessary; radish is quite seasonable to sow, also onions for salading; anything further must be regarded as matters of expedience. In many instances ground is now being cleared of crops that may be filled with things held over for want of space. Thus, celery, leeks, cabbages, savoys, cauliflower, and broccoli may be planted, but in no case must great development be expected. It is, however, better to grow imperfectly developed crops than to leave the ground idle and go without vegetables. In coming to a decision as to what to do, it is well to have in mind the fact that while tho catch crops mentioned will be unlikely to make great growth, • though in most cases they will make enough _to be useful, yet turnips and spinach, which it is quite seasonable to sow, will develop perfectly, and consequently be more certain to give good returns. These should therefore find a place, e\*en if some other species must be excluded. THE SPINACH BED. A bed of spinach.^ well established at this time, and properly cared for, constitutes one of the most remunerative of all crops, being in use from probably about tho end of May till well into October, supplying gatherings of tho most wholesome of all vegetables, excepting, possibly, onions, during the period when vegetables are ■ roost scarce, viz., mid-August to mid-October. Spinach requires good ssoil, and well manured, or supplied with fertilisers. Potash is one of its needs, wood ashes would on that account be useful, basic superphosphate 2oz per square yard should be applied while the ground is being prepared. When the plants are well up, but not before, give _oz per square yard of nitrate of soda, and a similar application a month later. _ The seed should be sown thinly in drills about 12in apart. The soil is usually dry at this time of the year, and the seeds require help in germinating. The best way is to thoroughly water the drills through the rose of a watering pot after the seed is in, cover up at once. The' dry surface will act as a mulch, and keep the moisture in long enough to start the seeds. When the seedlings are large enough to be handled, thin to at least eight inches apart, being careful that each plant stands singly. The leaves of the plants are pulled separately for use; their value depends on their making good growth. CELERY AND TURNIPS. Early celery is ready for moulding up. It is usual now to grow tho self-blanch-ing sorts for first use, such as Henderson's White Plume and Golden Self-blanch-ing. These varieties are often used without moulding up, but they are greatly improved by additional blanching,, which of course requires less time under the moulding ridge than for the older sorts. Never mould up while, tho soil k dry, give a thorough watering first. The old method of moulding up celery by degrees is rarely carried, out now, it is at least quite an unsuitable method for our climate and ways of cultivation. It is best to let the plants • grow to full size, that is to say till large enough to use, and mould up in one operation. There is, however, a little preliminary moulding that it is wise to do at an early stage, when the plants are about twelve inches high. The lower leaf stalks have a habit of spreading out somewhat horizontally; when they become fixed it is difficult to bring them upright without fracturing them. At tho stage mentioned push in sufficient soil that when pressed firm around the plants, will keep the lower leaves upright; there will then be no further trouble, and the soil put in will give additional root room for the plants, and be a benefit in that way also. It is advised that two kinds of turnips be sown, a white fleshed fjr early use, and a yellow fleshed for later use. The latter may well be omitted if there is a sufficient bed of garden swedes already provided for.

When the remains of old crops are being cleared away, be sure to waste nothing. Every particle of a plant has taken something from the soil, and this must be returned, or tho soil will lose its fertility. Artificial manures will supply everything but humus—without humus soil is infertile. Anything which will not readily decay should be burned, and the ashes spread on tho soil. Perishable matter should bo put in a heap and a little lime sprinkled on it; when the heap has rotted down somewhat turn it ovor to assist decomposition by breaking up any dry knots there may be. If care is taken to preserve all vogetable matter, weedg, etc., and tho best use is made of the resultant oompost, it is possible to avoid growing green crops to dig in, and the ground can be kept cropped instead of losing time in growing a soiling crop. In the absence of stable manure one or the other must be done. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Bulb planting should be got on with, the earliest to flower requiring first attention. Freesias should be got in at onco; they are better in the ground at any time, and as they flower vory early they Tequire time to make a steady start. Plant in a sunny spot, sheltered from the coldest winds. Ranunculus also should bo planted. These tubers are very dry and shrivelled after storing; some growers soak them a few hours in water before planting them, and the plan is very good: it ensures a good start, which they might not get in dry soil. It is important that ranunculus have a friable soil and well drained; they will not bear much wet, and abhor sticky soil. The early flowering narcissi should be planted at once, if not already in the ground; these include Early Snowflake and Scilly Isles White in particular. Annuals and other plants usually reproduce themselves from seeds that fall on tho ground; a good deal of labour may be sa.ved by taking care that the seedlings havo a chance to grow. A little hand weeding near the seeding plants in place of hoeing may be necessary. GARDEN PESTS. About this time there are usually a good many caterpillars present. Chrysan-' the-Qums aro liable to suffor from them; watch for curled leaves or two leavestuck together—there is euro to be a caterpillar present. The fingers are the best tools to use to get rid of them.; spraying is of no use when a leaf is curled,"nor when two are stuck together. Tobacco powder sprinkled on the terminals will protect flower buds from both caterpillars and aphis. Shrubs and plants of all .kinds are liable to be attacked by caterpillars; timely detection and crushing the grubs between a finger and thumb will save much disfigurement. Rose leaf and bud mildew are prevalent during autumn, and as'autumn roses are very acceptable, it should be checked. Dusting with flowers of sulphur is fairly effective; for economy the sulphur may bo mixed with equal quantity of airslaked quicklime, and is just as effective. The best remedy is to spray with liver of sulphur—potassium, sulphide—_o2 per gallon of water. Rose-leaf spot is muoh in evidence; this is destructive if loft alone, but a euro cannot be effected once leaves aro blotched—those affected will fall. Timely application of the right remedy will arrest the progress of tho disease. Badly-affected leaves aro best cut off, and, as well -as fallen leaves, should be burnt. There are two remedies that have proved best after extensive trials in the Old Country: Bordeaux mixture 4.4.40 strength is very effective, but very disfiguring. Tho now approved remedy, more effective oven than Bordeaux, is a mixture of flowers of sulphur and arsenate of lead powder; the proportion is one-tenth as much arsenate of lead as of sulphur. Tho material is to bo dusted on; a dewy evening would bo a good time for tho application. ■ THE GREENHOUSE. Pelargoniums stood out to harden should now bo cut back; withhold water for a few days before tho operation. All the side shoots aro to bo cut back to one or two buds ; give^no _ wator until new growth appears. Fuchsias may havo like treatment. Cyclamen are being .more extensively grown than formorly, and they always wero popular. Varieties of supsTips wexit. .we .-i^-jsjaont-tie. >Cb«-(yccla*.

men is one of the ea-siest plants to grow, and ono of the best for window gardening. This month is the best time to sow the seed. The .young plants are to be grown right on till they flower fifteen months later. Sow in clean sandy soil, keeping each seed at least half an inch from its neighbour.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/EP19190308.2.145

Bibliographic details

Evening Post, Volume XCVII, Issue 56, 8 March 1919, Page 12

Word Count
1,494

GARDENING NOTES Evening Post, Volume XCVII, Issue 56, 8 March 1919, Page 12

GARDENING NOTES Evening Post, Volume XCVII, Issue 56, 8 March 1919, Page 12