GARDENING NOTES

Evening Post, Volume XCV, Issue 23, 26 January 1918, Page 16

GARDENING NOTES

(By "Experience.")

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN,

Recent wet weather has been favourable to most crops, but by no means so to potatoes, and in many cases tomatoes also will.suffer. The fungoid blights that affect these crops are encouraged by damp weather. The greatest mischief is usually done to large or comparatively large plantations. When there is row after row of heavy-foliaged plants, the circulation of air is impeded. Thus, it may happen that a row or two may escape where larger breadths are destroyed. In small gardens it is good policy, when convenient, to plant only single rows of potatoes, alternating with several rows of, say, onions, carrots, parsnips—any such things that have erect foliage, and that are not heavy—rso that the ground surface will quickly dry, and air can always circulate. I have under view now a single row next several rows of onions that is quite clean. Another row on the same plot, and only eight yards away, growing next to a row of peas, is affected by Irish blight; both rows! are the same sort of potatoes. As is the case with most small plots, they have not been sprayed. In case an attack is serious, the best plan now is to cut the tops off at once. Unless planted very late, the tubers will be well grown, and they will keep fairly well. They should be dug soon after the tops are removed, for if left in the ground a good fall of rain would cause them to sprout and send up new growth. They would be very little use if that occurred. The diseased tops should be burned, it possible. Often that is impracticable, as it would require a good fire to burn them. The next best thing is to bury them deeply in the ground below the first spit. Sprinkle them well with lime before burying them. Tomatoes that show blight should be sprayed with a bluestone mixture. Bordeaux, or a similar prepared mixture, would be best for small lots, as it merely requires to be mixed with water. It is not necessary to spray the underside of the leaves, so the operation is easily carried out. Advantage should be taken of the moist state of the soil to complete arrangements for the winter supply of greenstuff, cabbages, etc. After so much rain there is not likely to be much trouble with the cabbage fly; it will be wise, therefore, to plant as much as possible. Keep waste growth nipped off tomatoes. There is sure to be plenty of it. A few warm days following the rain will make them grow very fast. Carrots, parsnips, turnips, and such things that ' have not been properly thinned should be attended to at once, for they will be growing fast, and they spoil each other if they are crowded. Thinning needs to 1 be a; bit more severe than in a dry summer, because there will be greater development. French beans may be sown once more. In small gardens it is best to stop at that, though where space can bo spared they may be sown up to the second week in February, but the last crop is always a email one.

Runner beans that are growing-without support should: have the growing points pinched off. They do fairly well in this way, and fruit for a long time, as new growth pushes-out after the points arc stopped. Keep the beans closely gathered as soon as they are ready. Jerusalem artichokes grow tall if left alone, and are liable to be blown over; besides they may sliade surrounding crops too much. The tops should be cut off now. This will prevent them flowering. They will push out new shoots, which thicken the growth but does not become tall. . Stopping the main shoots increases the crop. ' > Pumpkins and-marrows will make lush growth owing to the rain. Keep strong runners in check by cutting off the point*. Tins will cause them to push out lateral growths. These are the fruitbearers. It is quite common for the firstformed fruits to die off after growing a few inches. This is a source of wonder to many, and gives rise to the thought that something is wrong. It is merely because the first fruits are on the main runners, and their rapid growth starves the fruit. All that is necessary to put thir/gs right, is to stop the main runners. Even the laterals require stopping-at times. Thi» depends partly on how they are growing, and partly on what they are wanted to do. If the fruit is cut while green there is no occasion to stop the growth; but if they arc "left to ripen, it becomes necessary to limit the number produced, and the growth must be stopped if best results are expected. In field culture they are left alone altogether, but this mode of culture would not answer in a. email garden, where as much as is'possible is wanted from a small space.

THE VINERY. There are several causes of trouble which would be avoided by proper management. Mildew is one that has been dealt with before, and need .not be treated now, as it does not come as a fresh.infection after colouring begins.

Red spider is a minute insect that, when conditions favour it, does a good deal of damage. In such cases the insects come in myriads, suck the green matter from the leaves, and leave them in a rusty, faded state. The loss of chlorophyll from the leaves makes them unable to feed the fruit, which never colours properly, and does not attain to full'size. Bed spider flourishes in a dry, warm atmosphere; it abhors moisture, and if the vines are properly treated it will not be troublesome. Giving an extra amount of air to delay .-ripening is probably the most frequent cause of attacks. It would be better to grow late varieties. Attacks may be caused—often are, in fact—by giving too much bottom, air, which dries the house too thoroughly. Damping down would have to be frequently repeated to keep the atmosphere moist with much bottom air on, and this would result in attacks of mildew. Through the period before colouring begins bottom air should be given only on extra hot and windless days, if at all, which is perhaps best, at least about Wellington, which is a draughty place. Moisture always. collects on the leaves during the night, not so much from condensation of air moisture as by evaporation from the leaves themselves. This moisture must be cleared away before the sun gains much power, or damage of some kind will result. Onco the foliage has dried, there need be no fear in damping the floor. The moisture will rise in invisible vapour, and because of the heat will not condense on the foliage, so can do no harm, though it keeps the air moist. At closing time on bright days the vines may be lightly syringed, and the wall also, and the floor damped down in moderation. I have never seen red spider appear when this was done consistently through the season. If the spider should appear from any cause it can be removed, by forcible syringing if taken before it gets a firm hold. If the attack is severe, place some flower of sulphur in an iron dish, place the dish on a, kerosene heater, and light the damp. The fumes of the sulphur will kill the spiders. Eai'lier in the season sulphur may be sj'ringed on to the vines ; it is too late now to do so.

Scalding berries may be caused by a too low temperature at night, by neglecting to open early enough in the morning, or by removing too much lateral growth a*t one time, so suddenly exposing to direct sunlight berries that are tender-skinned through being overshaded previously. The latter cause is tha most goiiM'Hj ones. The laterals should be kept in subjection, not be

allowed to .crowd the vines before being cut out. If the vines are properly attended* to, so as to provide an even spread of large, leaves, and no crowding, the leaves become firm and leathery, and the berries have firm skins; scalding will not then occur, except from gross neglect in ventilating.

Mealy bug,, when present in large numbers, is a sure sign of neglect. In such cases there is no practicable remedy but fumigation by deadly gases. If taken in time mealy bug can be eradicated before it reaches troublesome numbers.- The insects breed with marvellous rapidity, and no insect should be left if seen. A simple way to deal with them is to have a little kerosene in a tin, dip an old tooth brush in the kerosene, and dab it on the bug; it will be instantly killed. If this treatment is persevered with early in an attack, the bugs can be got rid of, but if a number are allowed to breed more radical treatment is necessary. Fumigation with sodium- cyanide or potassium cyanide then becomes necessary; but this remedy should not be used if it can be avoided, as a little carelessness in its use might cause the death of the'operator.