GARDENING NOTES

Evening Post, Volume XCII, Issue 55, 2 September 1916, Page 10

GARDENING NOTES

{By "Experience.")

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

What to sow—Peas, cabbage, cauliflower, carrot, turnip, lettuce, radish, spinacil, tomato, vegctablo marrows, cucumber, rock melons, leeks, broad boons, aspuragus, red beet, celery, cress. To plant—Asparagus, cabbage, cauliflower, Jerusalem artichokes, rhubarb, potato and tree onions, potatoes, chives, various herbs. , Cabbago and oaulirlowors can bo sown almost at any time, but it, of course, is | not necessary to sow very frequently in the same garden. Cabbages sown in July or Argust, in November, and the lastweek in Ma-roh will circle the year. Cauliflower sown in September a-nd the last week in March will, jf the right kinds are sown—viz., a. late kind in September and an early and a lata in March—will, with broccoli, be sufficient. But as gardens are being started at all times it is useful to know that the seed may bo put in at almost any time, as stated. If a small variety of carrot was sown early, as it should havo been sown, a /larger hind may _be sown now, or a little later, to provide for the winter months. SPINACH A CATCH CROP. Spinach should be sown as a catch crop between the rows of other vegetables. Spinach takes little out of the ground, and it lasts but a short time in summer. It comes in quickly, gives but little troublo beyond sowing tho seed, as the hoeing necessary for the orops it may be growing between is all it will require. Now may be regarded as the "latest date on which it will be useful to sow tomato seed, and they require to be brought along quickly; however, the weather is now warm enough to ensure rapid progress. .Unless special care is to be taken with the plants it is not worth while to sow vegetable marrows and suchlike plants in boxes; they will do equally well if_ sown in the open ground early in November. Yet it may be well worth while if they ore looked after and planted in a- warm sheltered place, for if that is done they may be had in use before Christmas, and if used whilo quite small and young they afford a welcome change. CUCUMBERS IN FRAMES. Cucumbers and melons are hardly to bo regarded as hardy in and about Wellington. On the flat lauds of tho Hutt "Valley, and tho Manawatu they usually do well. It is best to sow in the open ground in November, they usually do bet : tor so treated than when plants are put out. So far as Wellington is concerned their cultivation should bo confined to frames or houses. Frame cultivation is easier than in houses, and a beginner would do wall' to gain some experionco with frame work before trying to grow thorn in houses. For growing under glass special varieties are employed that grow to a larger sizo than the hardy kinds, which ~by the way do not do well undor glass. The plants must bo raised in hoat, a dung bed is as good as anywhere, perhaps bettor. Tho seeds should be sown singly in three inoh pots. Pot to a larger size when the first pot is full of roots. Cet tho permanent bed ready while the plants are coming on. When the bed and the plants arc ready, place about a bushel of good loam under the centre' pi each light, and put two plants in it, that is to say, two plants under each light. The growths are to bo pinched to cause them to branch. A large bed will not Ibe needed at this time, as with the advent of October there will bo sufficient j sun heat, provided the plants have got a good start.

The start for rock melons is the 6ame as for cucumbers, though tho aiter treatment is very different. . ASPARAGUS BEDS. Asparagus may be sown in a drill for transplanting next year, but if ground' is available for a bed now, it would be better to purchase plants. Planting asparagus may bo done now or at any time during the next four weeks. Planting in a" long single line is better than planting several rows in a bed in the old way, the heads are much finer than those produced on the raised beds, and with loss trouble. Plant at least eighteen inches apart, two foot is bettor, and threo feet is bettor still, but I know that many will not plant so thinly. Throw out a shallow trench with a spade or shovel wide onough to accommodate tho outspread roots of tho plants, rako up a ridge along the middle of tho trench, set tho plants astride this like sitting on a saddle, spread out the roots on all sides, the crown will thus be tho highest part, then return the soil. The crowns of the plants should only be about threo inches below the surface when covered with soil.

Celery is usually best sown in boxes, but tho normal conditions of soil and climate may render it feasible to sow in the open ground. ■ The conditions necessary are, not too much heat, which is likely to dry the sxirface soil, and a good „ friable soil. Where theso conditions are present sowing in the open ground will save a lot of trouble, but it is not possible in every place, as I have found by losses experienced myself.

Tho cress referred to for sowing is "Golden Cress," also known as Australian cresa. This cress is just the thing- for the cottager, a6 it is of tho cut and conio again variety. Sow along-side, a path. Jerusalem artichokes should be planted at once. Medium size sets should bo planted, as only two or three stems are wanted; if more come, it will be advisable to pull the surplus out before they become stronfi*. RHUBARB PLANTING. Rhubarb of both the summer and perpetual variety may be planted, ox- seed of the latter may bo sown. The latter method would be bettor than planting cut sets, but young- seedling plants are quite as good as seed, and of course quicker in results. Though the winter variety, or as I term, it, perpetual, does not give suoh large sticks as tho summer sorts, I strongly recommend it for the cottage garden to the exclusion of the larger kinds, for it yields produce all the time in moderation, and in quantity wheu the other is I dormant. Rhubarb require* rich ground. Give stable manure if possible, as much as you like. If this manuro is deficient, give superphosphate, kainit, and nitrate of soda, two ounces of tho first, one ounce of tho second, one and a half ounce of the ' last each por square yard.' Giva half when growth begins, the other half a few ■weeks later. Plant all rhubarb at least two feet apart in th« rows and thirty inches apart between the rows. THE FLOWER GARDEN. . Dahlias are on the move. If they have been lifted and stored, they should now be overhauled. Cut the clumps up in pieces with a strong knife; be careful to secure a piece of neck with each' division; it is usually possible at this time to 6ee the buds; these come only on the oollar or neck, never on the potatoes, which aro practically useless now. Tho divisions may be planted at once where they are to grow. Scarce kinds may be increased by cuttings. The beat way to do it is to place the clump in a greenhouse to bring tho growth on quickly, and also^ because the cuttings raised in a house will root better than those taken from outside. The tubers may be cut small enough to allow them to be placed in boxes, or .largo pots. They should bo surrounded with soil. When tho shoots are about three inches long they should be cut off with a sharp knife low down; it" thoy are taken with a heel they root the more readily, but there would be no more growth from that place, for which reason it is usual not to take a heel. Plant the cuttings in small pots in light soil, water them, and let them drain off, then place them in a small frame or a box covered with a shoet of glass. The best shoots are of moderate thickness, and firm in texture. Plant out pansies. There is no time like the spring for pnnsies, and no plants give suoh good (lowera as young plants. Get busy with tho sowing of annuals of a. hardy nature; there is a great fund of pleasant surprises in this race of plants; many beautiful flowers can be had for a trifling expenditure of time and inopey.