LADIES' COLUMN

Evening Post, Volume LXXXIX, Issue 126, 29 May 1915, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN

FASHION NOTES., Th© "Gentlewoman" writes: — Since the new lino is making a fresh frock a necessity, Fashion's word of command, "Frocks as usual!" rings with the greater force. Assuredly to be dowdy is to be down-hearted, and the women-folk of those soldiers whom the cruelties of war will be sending back these coming months weary and wounded, and in sore need of every bit of sweetness *nd brightness with which we can surround them, must be neither dowdy nor downhearted. "Frocks as usual!" is, then, a command to be obeyed and promptly. The new note, like a pebble thrown into the stream, creates eddying circles of change, and consistency "is one of the most vital principles of Fashion. Besides, noblesse oblige, although so short a sentence, has for ever summed uj> thfe duties of that minority to whose example in manners, taste, and dressing the majority must look. There should, however, be no extreme rendering of the new line, but that which is instinct with taste and reserve, and in harmony with the character of the fastidious wearer* It is inevitable that tha first tailor'suit venture into the new line will be expressed in serge; there will be few to take on the responsibility of really definite colour, partly by reason of the short skirts that the new line involves. The short skirt brings one's footgear into thfe scheme in the most emphatic sense. . The moment the suit is of definite colour, the boots become a difficult point to decide. What is gained in vitality is lost by the necessary dulness of the boots. We have proved over and over again during the last few years that the dark or neutral suit, with light boot uppers, echoed by dainty white gloves and a muslin collar, makes for -a cheery, fresh effect far more effectually than the colour scheme which necessitates nondescript accessories. Indeed, Fashion, is for ever seeking for pretty, cheerful notes in the accessory parts of dress. Some of us, for instance, will have observed a tendency to stripes in hats, coat-collars and, hand-bags, tho most interesting of these being the stripe in millinery. Dainty little sailor hats and turbans are being fashioned of black and white, and navy blue and white striped silks, or sometimes a hat of navy blue or black taffetas is piped or bound with crossway cut striped silk, and with these touches a flower play of colour contrives a genuinely pretty scheme. And the scheme is the greater success in that these flower notes favour blues that are very blue, pinks that are very pink, greens that are emerald, and so on. Black and white kills the shade that is vague and too soft; it wants resistance, something that can take its own part. Very charmingly will a hat of this colouring and black and white play its role with a navy serge, black, nigger brown, beige, or grey suit. GIRLS' SCHOOL FROCKS. Here are some good suggestions from a Sydney paper for girls' school frocks : With the coming in of the wider skirts, a new necessity arises with regard to girls' school outfits, for our daughters in their early 'teens will not be satisfied with skimpy tight skirts of serge or of gaberdine, while their elders are appearing in widely-flared jupes, not much longer than the schoolgirl's frock. A school outfit for winter presents itself as a question of importance during May, for earlier than just now it is impossible to get children to put on warm clothes with, any feeling except strong distaste. " You run about, my little maid, your limbs they are alive," we unconsciously quote, as we somewhat enviously note the contempt which the average N.S.W. girl has for natural wool underwear and flannel petticoats. The ideal wear for such young and vigorous vitality is just a wool singlet, stay band of woven cotton, quit© soft and pliable, white knickers, navy bloomers, either of knitted wool or vyella, na.vy serge skirt, white Japanese silk blouse, finished with a sailor tie, generally in the school colours. A sports coat is indispensable, and in the region of pure utility, a macintosh and goloshes. These are the foun-dation-stones of every growing girl's wardrobe structure, and it will be found that most girls are quite satisfied with ringing the changes on these articles of attire. The school is a great leveller. Its members hate the thought of being odd or unlike the other girls "in our form," and mothers, as a rnle, remembering their own early days, think twice before asking their daughters to undergo the ordeal of wearing anything at which their congeners would laugh. Short skirts, midway between knee and ankle length, are being now made with a flare at the hem, but except for the ultra-fashionable, it is not at all likely that their introduction will be anything but gradual. A slight opening at the bottom of one side seam, or the introduction of a few inverted pleats in both seamsj will give the requisite width. The waist-band still remains hidden, and for tho school blouse and skirts this model is ideal. To keep the skirt always up to concert pitch of tidiness the home dressmaker should renew the Petersham belting when it becomes limp. The cost is quite tiny, and the trouble is well repaid in the freshened look of the skirt. The extreme simplicity of girls'* dress nowadays has a charm of^ its own. Since the war, all fancy notions and frilleries, never in the best taste for children, have disappeared altogether. A well-cut serge, whipcord or cheviot, pencil line Ceylon flannel, or a tiny check in black and white, or Rob Roy tartan, finished with black trimming, made tailor-wise, marks the well dressed ingenue. Coats should be hiplength, and finished off with a belt. Several smart effects may be obtained by belting only the back of the coat, or using a buckle or some large buttons. In fact, the belted all round effect is seldom seen. The Russian style does not go well with short skirts. Once accustomed to the comfort of bloomers, wearers, both old and young, will return to petticoats with great reluctance. Nor is there any reason for petticoats to be worn under short skirts. For little girls of twelve and. under, the bloomers should match the skirt in colour if not in material. Some mothers like to' show the knees of the bloomers under the extremely abbreviated skirts ; in some cases the skirt is nothing but a mere frill at the lower edge of the broad band. These very long-waisted and very shortskirted frocks look like having an innings all the winter. But it is better to have them a little longer than the bloomers, which give a quaint air of trying to be trouserettes, recalling the days of "Harry and Lucy, or, the Purple Jar," aud otlier Edgeworthian tales, when unduly long in the leg. Bloomers are very easily made, and to be successful should be manufactured by the child's dressmaker or sewing maid (who is often "mother"). Ready-made bloomers cost two or three times as much, and never fit well. Elastic at tho waist and at each knee makes the garment sit snugly. The little maid who possesses two school frocks, with bloomers to match, will be quite set up while the frocks last, which is not saying that the garments will see a venerable old age, for little active girls wear out a "power" of clothes. For tiny girls the complete knitted outfit looks pretty, cap, coat, jersey, and bloomers, all to match- A skirt may or jn|^ cat bo worn *i well, ifo* elder

girls, between 8 and 12, the Jersey is to be as much worn as ever this winter. Indeed, more than ever, if that be possible to such a universal fashion. A kilted skirt is easily achieved, and a neat serviceable school costume is the result. BRAIDING. The advent of braiding seems likely, perhaps a la. militaire, or in more fanciful styles. An English writer says :—: — I am watching the revival of braiding, but frankly think the traditional silk braid border is rather prosy. I would like to see it used in conjunction with rouleau braiding, the rouleau formed either of dull silk or the suit material. That the broad, bolder silk military braids will come into play is inevitable. I can ccc them bordering the base of the new skirt, and giving harmony to its line. It is already figuring as a collar-facing, in which capacity the white version is very charming. In a suit of black faille I saw the other day there was an elaborate mixture of braids, and this of course made for richness in the braiding ; there was not only diversity of pattern, but of width and texture. If we are to have a braided tailor suit season, we shall have interesting prettinesses of many kinds. So far, braiding in which rouleau of the material pi-e-dominates has attracted me most.