GARDENING NOTES
(By "Experience.") WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS. To get the be«t results it is ncccssaiy to follow nature as r.early as possible. It is tm« ise to Iry to get plants^ out of hudbon; to do bo with success requires, very cluboi'jto means. Foftunatoly it is not neoe3wiry k> do so, for there nro plenty cf pliintb available all tho yoar round. Plants of a permanent naturo should tiofc bo on duly nil the time, they rcquir 1111 11. 1 a period of rest occasionally. Pnlmc, and tho so-called table palm "aspidistra" \\ ith rational treatment, prove very eatisractory. The palms usually grown am species of Kcntia, these as well ns the Aspidistra are comparatively hardy. Both may with advantage be placed outside for a month or two in summer, in a semi-shaded position, where the rays of the buii will bo somewhat broken; a cool and moist position is where they thrive. See that they never suffer for want of watei\ but make euro that the drainage is efficient, and that it does not got blocked. The same applies to all plants stood outside. Worms are sure to work up through the drainage holes if they havo the opportunity, but will not work through a tow inches of fresh coal ashes such as may be obtained from foundry furnaces and gas houses. These make n good t bod for plunging pots, or for standing t them on. When plants are plunged in soil, it iB a good plan to dig out a trench, place a board on the bottom at such a depth that will allow of the bottoms of the pots resting on it. This will exclude worms, and also secure the drainage. Wahtihg: the board, and for plants stood on the surface, a handful of soot beneath the pot will keep all insects as well as worms away. There arc also some proprietory mixtures that the florist supplies that will answer tho same purpose. It is always rather risky to stand plants on planks laid on the surface, because they make good hiding places for sluga and woodlice. Fuohsias, pelargoniums of all classes, and any other plants that have passed their present^ period of usefulness 'should be put outside. It is a mistake to keep them in for tho sake of a • few Btray flowers, f or they ought to be out hardening off ready for pruning bftck, so that they may bo again started in the proper way, and at the proper time. Pelargoniums, zontils as well, as shows, and fuchsias should bo given just sufficient water to keep thorn going, bufc bo always rather on the dry sido as a meam of hardening the wood preparatory to pruning. BULBS. Pot up bulbs of all kind?. If the supply is to be taken from the garden it Is important not to delay, for bulbs in tlie ground are seldom dormant long. Even if the top growth is not visible the root* may be active, and in tho case of narcissi, if root growth has begun, it will mu.ke potting difficult at tho least. Freesias should not be left out of the coil long. Whether they have been grown m pots or in the open ground, it is best to put them in soil again as soon as possible after they are taken out. The usual plan with those in pots is to leave them un« watered after the foliage has died down, but keep them in the pots, then, when potting up fe to be done again, turn them out into a. riddle, rub the 60il through the meshes— this will leave tho bnlb3 clear — then select the largest lot re-potting, and pot them up at once. When potted, give the soil a thorough watering and put the pots in a da-rk place. Where there are sufficient, put them in a frame and cover the lights with sacks, to be kept on till growth appears — they should do this without further watering-— then expose to light. Regarding bulbs in general, with the exception of t such small bulbs as scillas, gr^pe hyacinths, etc., they are of necessity when potted put in at less depth than their nature requires. It is quite useless to put strong rooting bulbs low in the pots, for if the roots have not room enough they will lift the bulbs. Moreover, even if that did not happen, if tho roots were too low they would not get the benefit of the coil ; for both reasons the tops of the bulbs must be just covered and no more. This has the efifecfc of placing them too near the light. This has not much effect on, narcissi, perhaps, but with most bulb 3it leads to promature flowering. The natural way is for a considerable root growth to precede top growth. When the bulbs are too near the light this order is reversed, top growth comes first, with the result that not having sufficient support from the roots it becomes stunted. For another reason, or perhaps it is a. part of the same, when hyacinths, for instance, and particularly hyacinths, are planted deep the flower head is slow to develop, and comes up with a long stem ; the truss is then, lifted well abovo the soil, and tho flower head is strong ; tho reverse happens if they are planted shallow, unless — and this is the point— measures are taken to counteract tho effect. Thifc explains why pots of bulbs should be in some way covered to keep light from the bulbs. The old way was to lay the pots on their sides against a wall, and cover them deeply with coal ashes, and no other plan appears to be so good. It has the desired ef-' feet, and during tho weeks— about «ix — that they are under tho ashes they are in a very safe place, protected alike from drought and extremo wet, and safe from all insect; pests THE FLOWER GARDEN. Propagation should be taken seriously in hand, particularly where much bedding stuff is required. Irosines root easily at this time in an ordinary frame, kept close and shaded from bright sun. The boxes should be moderately drained, and filled with light sandy soil surfaced with sand. The cuttings should be made about three inches long ; dibble in close together with a blunt stick; bo i careful to make the bottom of the cutting reßt on the bottom of the hole. A certain amount of the sand runs into the hole and assists the rooting process. The surface of sand ensures a loose surface, and prevents weed seeds germinating. After tho boxes uro placed in the frame give a watering sufficient to wash the sand close about the cuttings. . The cuttings are not long in rooting, and it is soon possible to get unother batch of cuttings from them. These cuttings will not be so long as the first, but put in quickly and shaded they will root quite freely. Alternantheras may be also struck. . These have a habit of growth quite different to the Iresine. They mako tufted plants with numerous branches, which largely 6pring from beneath the surface of the ground. Thete shoots have usually more or less roots on them, enabling cuttings to be secured that are already rooted to some extent. If the cuttings are taken off with a heel with a sharp knife they quickly make plunts, and afford opportunity for further increase in tho same way. Geraniums, properly called pelargoniums, of all tho sections, zonal, tricolour, and bicoloui, should all be got in at once. Where there ie no danger from frost they may be rooted in the open ground, where they give very litllo trouble; but if there is danger from that 6ource put them in boxes of 'sandy soil, bo that they may Le placed Under shelter at the critical period. Continue planting bulbs and sowing seed as before advised. Securely stake chrysanthcnnims; growth is likely to be rapid How the days arc getting a bit cooler and more moisture prevailing. Give stakes long enough for further tying, and do not tie too tight to the stakes : if tho shoots are allowed a little nlny they are less likely to suffer damage from strong winds. If aphis appears on the tips of the i shoots sprinkle with tobacco powder while they are damp with dew. ONION GROWING. Answer to Correspondent.— Some of tho questions you ask cahnot be definitely answered. No estimate of cost per acre for onion growing can bo given. It would cost more in one place than another, according to the nature of tho soil ; also the. personal equation hu« to be reckoned with. Good onions are grown all over New Zealand. The chief thing i% to choose a suitable place, where the soil is not too heavy ;, clayey soil is not profitable when working a large area. One man could not unaided cultivate a good few acres of onions. A lot of work is .required at certain times. Some men could work two or three acres, borne not one; practice is tho great, thing needed. On question. No. 3 I cannot advise. Regurding diseases, write the Director of Orchards and Gardens, Department of Agriculture, nod he .will send .you leaflets Lil uLuaok •'■"■ *
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Bibliographic details
Evening Post, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 50, 28 February 1914, Page 12
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1,550GARDENING NOTES Evening Post, Volume LXXXVII, Issue 50, 28 February 1914, Page 12
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