LADIES COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXVI, Issue 89, 11 October 1913, Page 11

LADIES COLUMN.

London JBashion Notes. THE SEASON'S NEW MODES. (F-^om Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 29th August. Holidays are now over with the groat wholesale drapers, and during tho past few days the manufacturers' consignments of hats and blouses, fabrics, and made-up items have been arriving in sufficient bulk to give a very fair idea of tho trend of fashion to be looked for ia shops in tho near future. There are many novelties in store; the merely freakish and bizarre is not conspicuous : colour is to be employed extensively; and the materials foreshadow charming designs at the hands of the capable dre£6maker. Nor is there reason to fear that feminine dress is likely to follow the precedent of other commodities and become appreciably dearer. More material, it is true, will bo required for some of the draped effects that will supersede the extreme exiguoueness of recent fctyles, but there will not bo great elaboration of trimming, and those who must be well dressed at modeet oost have no cause for alarm on the score of enhanced prices. The big houses note, too, a demand for * better, class of goods, Bhowing that the mania' for mere cheapness is passing, and that the average woman is learning to appreciate quality "and good craftsmanship. THE WRAP COAT. An outstanding feature to fill the Weet End shop windows is to be the ample wrap- coat, which is being made to meet tho requirements of the highest class and medium trade. "Teddy bow plush" iB a favoured fabric, and exactly reproduces the somewhat rough and irregular pile of the covering of that popular toy. Not only, however, is it to be seen in the yellowish brown colour of the nursery favourite, but it is made in cream, biscuit, dull blue, mulberry, India>n red, and various tones of violet, and for afternoon visiting, and as restaurant and theatre coat 6 a, large demand seems assured for it. Other types of plush and fanoy striped veloun. cloth are also being extensively used. An immense amount of ingenuity has been devoted to tho cut of these long coats to give them new lines which shall offer a suggestion of a drawn across effect. Few of them have any revere or 'rolled collars, and the latest come olose up to | tho neck, fastening below the left shoulder j with two or three buttons diagonally pkc- j ed, a couple more buttons _ appearing I lower down. Where the material is Btriped j at all or has a ribbed surface it is cut . slightly on the cross with striking and ' novel result. > Tho neck ie finished with a I band collar or some real fur, and this is repeated in the cuffs, for it would seem j that there is some reaction, against the imitations of the choicer skins, and women of tasto are preferring a small finish of one of these on a well-out woollen coat to a whole jacket of rabbit masquerading as something more costly. . FASHIONS AT DEAUVILLE. "Spanish Dancers" hats, gowns the colour of mustard, and waistcoat belts round the hips are features of early autumn fashions as reflected at Deauville, the French watering-place near Havre. In black velvet, tilted at a. piquant angle, s the "Spanish _ Dancer's" hat ia chiefly trimmed with the tall cog- j aigrette rising up straight in front. Black and whitb are still the, conspicuous notes in. hats and the new aigrette accentuates . the magpie suggestion. Poet-impressionist yellow is one of tho newest shades worn at Deauville. A striking frock, the colour of Dijon mustard, combined with a darker shade of Bordeaux mustard aroused much attention. The new colourn run the whole gamut from 1 yellow, including mastic and citron, to rose-brown. With the new shades in yellow goes the fashionable colour hair—dull gold blown, which is said to be likely to suit the complexions of most women. In the v Casinn the transparent printed < gauzo and chiffon _ Wraps in gorgeous Eastern colours point to an autumn ' vogue of sumptuous evening, coats. The chief note in evening dress is the width at tho hips and narrowness at the knees. The stiffened lamp-Bhado tunio of brocaded or charmeuse satin is another striking note. The new waistcoat belts fit ' round the hips instead of the waist, and often measure 38in. Fox of the rodbrown shade is tho fur of tho season. TOQUES TRIMMED IN FRONT. • The trimming 1 of the new hats of medium size, for 60 far there is no indication that they will bo other than medium or small during the coming months, though naturally there is still time for the large models to declare themselves — is ' divided about equally between the back and front, but in the case bf the little i velvet hat or toque, the trimming is i neatly always in tho front. The hat is draped in most instances, and often the tall, upstanding bow which is placed in front is simply part and parcel of this draperyThere is another type of toquo which promises to be fashionable, and which is very pretty. This wnsists ot a draped ; velvet brim, which is about four inches j in width, and turned back against the i head, while the, crown or inside of the toque is completely buried under quan- | tities of soft loops , of reversible satin ' ribbon, with one tall loop whioh is much longer than the others, and carefully wired, reared straight up in the centre among them. | Somo very pretty colour schemes can be worked out in this connection by means ot the? colours chosen for tho ribbon. A charming choice for a. brown.-eyod girl -is '. a hat ot deep bronze velvet with loops of bronze ribbon lined with old gold. The combination is a very becoming one. .MOIRE AND VELVET. Naturally enough, t moire will play a considerable part in our schemes, and it is hardly to be supposed that watered effects, which, have taken such an important role during the past months, will be discountenanced when it represents such a charming trimming for autumn headgear. , Like eatin, however, it is always a little hard against the face, and when used as a trimming the hat would be infinitely more becoming if the brim were lined with a dark, tone of velvet, or at least softened at the edge with a narrow strip of fur. This latter would take off th© harshness of 'the eft'eot of tho moire to a. _ great extent, ' while at tho same time it would have the result of setting off the watered surface of the silk to tho best advantage. A ffood many of the crowns are draped, but jn most cases the draper y is not very pronounced, while the crown, which is sliprhtly gathered all round, *is another feature of ihe coming month which is very important, and obviates the necessity for a great deal of trimming. CHANTILLY LACE. Black Chantilly laco is at nresent enjoying an enormous vogue as the material most favoured for a 6borfc tunic. With it is combined the inevitable and ethereal corsage of 'white tulle, supplemented by the pleated frills of tulle that \ show beneath the draperies of the char- ! meuse skirt. j Emerald green for evening frocks is a j colour that has rapidly advanced ;n; n I fashion, and seems likely to keep its pro- -' eminence during autumn. The harmonies i of black, emerald green, and white arc | exploited in one of the newest models of I the autumn evening gown. Draped :n j the irregular mode now so prevalent, the ( bordering of the skirt by means of the I modish note of black fox fur completes a gown uniting many points that show the latest decrees of fashion. HATS AND FEATHERS. For morning and walking wear, the ' semi-trimmed hat most hi demand will j be in velours. Very bright colours will be seen, but those accustomed to judge the ] general taste are inclined *o think that richer, deeper tones of wino-ieds, bronze, and brown will be preferred. For more full-dress purposes tho smalt black velvet hat, having a. boldly-raised brim behind, bids fair to carry all before it, and after that a great deal of yellow is expected. A new metallic shade of this is sumciently indicated in its designation "brass," and this combines very happily ! with black. Shapes generally will lv email, but the clever curvos and hues of the brims wader th«a» kssoiuiojf to all

The treatment of feathers seems more fantastic than ever. The single towering plume, as it comes from the ostrich, is made to carry a quantity more of uncurled feathers set in tufts, spirals, or fluffy bunches. Three or four single feathers may bo set at right angles and all curled in. different manners. The most magnificent Lancer plumes running up in price to six or seven guineas each, are to be seen, and> often in most beautiful shadmgs and colours. Long, bare shafts may bo ten or twelve inches high, and then display long 4oobo fronds, resembling a Japanese chrysanthemum. For feathers are to bo the trimming before all others, and where something for harder, rougher wear is required more ordinary plumage has been mode into bandeaux with lanlike ends, constituting a sufficient trimming in itself. Next to them will' come berries, which are likely to have a greater vogue than for many years, and are prepared in some extraordinary colours, tho like of which nature has neved known. FURS. To bo fashionable this season, furs must be natural. But tho boldest will not commit himself to 6ay how far rod fox will bo adopted. Every fur saloon will bo showing it tentatively, but tho fact will remain that it is only really becoming' to dark-haired women with clear complexions. THE NEW SHOE. Fringed sashes are again in favour. There seems no end to the varioty of the forms exploited by the sashes of the 6eason. Enormous bowe finished with ends fringed with gold,' silver, crystal^ or coloured beads, are considered among the most novel effects, and suit tho woman whose silhouette is of the fashionable limp stylo. One of the new notes of the season ia the adoption of the shoe that shows the short-toed effect combined with the high heel. This gives an appearance of smallness to the feet, and is adopted both for afternoon and evening shoes.