THE TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 151, 26 June 1912, Page 17

THE TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK.

The chief attraction to travellers passing through from Auckland to Wellington, via the Main Trunk railway, is th© magnificent view obtained at inter vals along the route between Waimarino and Waiouru of snow-capped Ruapehu and the smoking volcano of Ngauruhoe. Residents and workeie in the districts around within sight of Ruapehu after a few years begin to have a great affection for this noble mountain. They see its snow-clad peaks towering above the miste that surround the base in the early morning; at midday they view the finowfielde and glaciers glistening in the sun; and in the evening they watch with admiration the glorious ever-chang-ing tints produced by the setting sun. A MARVELLOUS REGION. A considerable area around the mountains Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongaxiro has been reserved as the Tongariro National Park. Those who have taken the trouble to explore this, region have found every part of it filled with curious and beautiful sights. Within comparatively a few milee there are mountain peaks and glaciers, snow elopes, and loefalls, roaring torrents and waterfalls, warm and cold lakes, bubbling springs (hot and cold), birch, forests and mountain meadows, steam jets and craters, and, most wonderful of all, Nganruhoe, the only active volcano in Australasia. There is everything here, except accommodation, to make the Tongariro National Park the finest holiday trip in New Zealand. The atmosphere^ is most exhilarating, the climbing is within the limits of any ordinary walker in good condition, the Ketetahi Springs have the arepntation of being one' of the best in New Zealand for rheumatics j the mountain meadows and rock formations are teeming with interest to the botanist and geologist j and tho whole district is full of glorious scenery. MOUNTAINS FOR. THE MASSES. A good many people have the idea that to tackle Ruapehu one has to be

(Specially Written for The Post.) By H. E. G.

an expert rock and ice climber, but such is not the case. About eighteen months ago three young ladies from Taihape, who had never done any mountainclimbing before, scaled Tongariro, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu on successive days. There is a splendid botanical report on the Tongariro National Park by Dr. Cocayne, published by the Lands and Survey Department, which also includes many other items of interest, such as the legends of the park, notes on the geology (hy Mr. R. Speight), as well as a good map and a series of photographs. HINTS TO CLIMBERS. To give the holiday-maker an idea what to take as regards equipment and "tucker," the general routes followed in climbing the mountains, and the places of special interest, the following notes should be of great assistance. Until a short time ago there used to be a good track up from Rangataua Railway Station, but since Mr. Snow left New Zealand nobody has been looking after it. A new track has been cut from Ohakune through the bush for about eight miles and p. mountain camp established on the leading spur up to Ruapehu Peak just inside the bush, limit. From here a three to^four hours' climb will take one to the highest pomt — 9175 ft in altitude — j where a glorious panorama of the remaining peaks, snow fields, and crater lake greets the eye. On the way up the mountain the Mangaehuehu Glacier fills the valley on the right, and at one place where the grade changes there is a remarkable icefall, where the ice is piled up into all sorts of fantastic shapes. Looking across the glacier, the sharp rocky point of the Little Matterhorn Peak presents a very formidable appearance. It was on this peak' that a party a few years back discovered a flask of whisky that had been inadventently left there fourteen years before by one of Dr. Marshall's party. MOUNTING FROM OHAKUNE. The usual procedure on the Ohakune route is to pack up through the bush, to the mountain camp one afternoon, start early next morning, and climb to the summit, drop down across the snow

fields to the crater lake, return to the camp in the afternoon, and pack down the track the next morning. By making a very early start from Ohakune in midsummer it would be possible to do the whole trip in one day. This is a very handy trip from the Main Trunk line, but it has the disadvantage of being away from the other mountains. Mr. P. Rogel, of Ohakune, is in charge of the track and will make arrangements for anyone wishing to take on the ascent. THE BEST BASE AT PRESENT. The Waihohonu mountain hut, dtu- ' ated between Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe, forms the best present base from which to visit all three mountains. The main coach road from Waiouru to Toka-anu passes within four miles of the hut, to which there is a formed road. Arrangements can be made with Messrs. Crowther and M'Cauley, coach proprietors, of Waiouru, for a special coach, which will land the party with equipment and stores right at the hut. If the party is- a small one, the ordinary coach can be taken as far as the 19-mile peg and the gear swagged the four miles from there to the hut without much trouble. The road is almost level the whole way and through, open country. THE WAIHOHONU HUT. The Waihohonu hut is situated in a sheltered position on the edge of a fair-sized tract of birch bush, with the Waihohonu stream running past about* five chains away. The hut is built of corrugated iron, double thickness, with pumice in between, and consists of two rooms, containing cix wooden bunks in each, built ship fashion. There is an open fireplace in the larger of the rooms, but as the chimney smokes abominably most of the parties prefer to do their cooking in a little shelter-shed about two chains away. ADVISABLE AT EASTER. TO BRING TENTS. It is advisable for parties making' the trip at Christmas and Easter time to bring tents, as there is always a big crowd from all parts and the hut cannot possibly accommodate them all. Last Easter there were no less than thirtyfive people there from all parts, and besides the hut being full, there were five different camps pitched. It is fully time that a larger place was put up, as every year th© campere have to cut fresh poles for the tents, as the old ones are used for firewood as soon as they ape dry. The bush around the hut is gradually becoming thinned out, and if lie cutting continue* the present shelter will be lost. Intending parties should bring a tent, rugs, tucker, and cooking gear. There is no store at Waiouru, «j provisions should be obtained further down the line. j MOUNTAINEERING REQUISITES. For climbing Ruapehu each person should provide himself with the following itens : — Good strong boots, wellnailed, with sqnare-headed hobs placed well apart, knickers and long stockings, a long sleeved woollen singlet or football jersey, wide brimmed hat, goggles (any dark-tanted ones will do), and a veil, which, latter will be found very useful in preventing sunburn under the chin. An extra woollen sweater should be carried to put on when the summit is Teached. A good wrinkle with tho stocking* .is to wear a pair of socks inside the boots, then cut the feet off the long stockings and pull them on over the socks, letting the bottom ends come down over the tops of the boobs. A piece of string tied , round them will effectually keep the scoria and snow from getting down inside. An ice-axe is a very handy implement to have with a party, although it is not an absolute necessity. FOOD FOR THE ASCENT. While climbing, it is very bad to suck the snow, though there is a great temptation to do so. If a water-bottle is not carried then the snow can be melted in a hollow rock and the chill taken off it before drinking. Raisins, figs, chocolate, and dates are very good to chew whilst climbing, and if a date stone is k.»pt in the mouth it will relieve tho thirst a good deal. An early start should always bo made for Ruapebu, :i& tb« climbing is then don© before it becomps too not. and plenty of j t-itne -will be left to exploro the beauties of the snow fields and crater lake on the 1 summit.

THE WAY UP. For about two miles from the Waihohontc hut the track is chipped about six feet wide through the tussock, with poles set up at intervals until the scoria slopes are reached and the vegetation ceases. From here on, the leading spur is well defined and shows out conspicuously ahead so there is no danger of missing the route. The 6coria slopes are very gradual until about five and a half miles from the hut where the real climb begins. Progress is made in short stages, now up rocky ridges, then up stretches of loose scoria, where the feet sink deeply at every step. THE VIEW ABOVE THE CLOUDS. If the climber is fortunate enough to strike a clear day the views of the Waimarino Plains, Ngauruhoe, Lake Taupo, and the Kaimanawa Ranges will well repay him for hie energy. Sometimes tho clouds will form below, presenting a charming spectacle with Ngauruhoe's steaming cone poking up through them like a gigantic steam funnel. The leading ridge up to the North Peak (Te Heu Heu) terminates in an abrupt rocky., face about 100 feet high, but this can easily be avoided by making a short detour to the right. This peak is about 9000 feet

in altitude, about 5000 feet above the hut and a good party can do the climb in four hours, although the average time is about five. From here a splendid panorama is obtained of the remaining peaks snow-fields, and glaciers. _ The edge of the water basin can be picked out about a mile and a half away although the lake itself cannot be die. cerned. FROM TEHEU HEU. The snow slopes immediately to the south of Te Heu Heu peak are very abrupt, but by following along the ridge in a south-westerly direction for about 20 chains an easy snow slope is discovered leading down to a field of level snow which reaches over towards the lake. It is about half-an-hour's easy walk from Te Heu Heu peak to the crater lake and what a sight meet 6 the eye. THE CRATER LAKE. Picture- a lake of blue green water about 30 chains in diameter surrounded on nearly every side by ice clitf6 200 feet high, showing , that delicate greenish tinge that ice always has when looking down creva£fies, above thie fields of dazzling white enow, with the rocky points of Ruapehu and Para-te tai-tonga- Peaks towering up into the blue sky — a regular fairyland spectacle. The lake is constantly changing in ccloui*^ sometimes I you find it green, at other times brown, and again a dirty chocolate. There is

one place on the north-eastern side where it is possible to scale down tho steep scoria and ice slopes to the edge of the lake. Several parties have gone down here and had a dip in the water, which they found about luke warm, and highly charged with mineral matter. The water was very acid to the taste and smarted on any scratches or if a drop got into the eyes. SULPHUR SPRINGS. The lake is shallow near the edge on this side, with a slimy, muddy bottom, and all around the edge there are yellow lumps of crude sulphur in which are hundreds of tiny egg-like formß. There appears to be a sulphur spring in the centre of the lake, as there is always a dark chocolate-coloured patch there. Under the ice cliffs on the south side there is a small cavern, the outlet to the lake, where the water rushes out aud continues. its course under the ice, coming to light again at the terminal face of the Waneaehu Glacier. It then continues its journey in a series of waterfalls down a rocky gorge to the plains below, forming the Wangaehu River. THE WANGAEHU GORGE. To 1 those fond of exploring, the Wangaehu Gorge is full of interest, and

sometimes parties making the ascent via the north peak, come down the glacier and gorge on the return journey. This makes a very long day of it, and should not be attempted except by good walkers. There are two fine waterfalls on the Wangaehu, bosides four others on the different branches of the Mangatoetoenui. In the crater lake the warm water keeps undermining the ice, and large icebergs are continually falling into lake especially in the north-west corner under Pare-te-tai-tonga Peak. AMONG THE PEAKS. When the wind is blowing it is always fairly cold on the snow fields, and, after a visit to the crater lake, no time is lost in starting home again. In calm weather some hours are spent climbing the different peaks to get good look-outs and exploring all the queer ice formations. The weather- worn rocks take all sorts of fantastic shapes. Just under the North Peak, on the way up, there is one very> prominent boulder that resembles the Sphinx. 'Halfway between the North Peak and the lake a little to the east, there is a pile of locks that looks like the pipes of an organ, and is known as tho "Cathedral Rocks." GLISSADING HOME. When tho long snow slopes in the vallejs aro in good condition the home journey is the most pleasurable part of the day's outing. Starting under the

North Peak, it is often possible to glissade right down to the foot of the steep slopes. Putting the feet together and leaning back on the alpenstock, or sitting on a bag and steering with a stick behind, a descent of a thousand feet is made in no time. The experience compensates for all the energy expended in the climb up, and always remains long within the memory. Once the foot of the steep slopes is reached, the five and a-half miles to the hut is cut out in quick time. AFTER THE DAY'S. TOIL. As soon as home iB reached everyone makes a dive for the pool in the Waihohonu Stream in front of the hut. The water is very cold, but the day's outing makes one fit to tacke anything. After a change and tea, all the parties gather round one of the fires and talk over the day's, trip. The fellows that comprise the different parties are always a jolly and interesting lot. Most of them. have been all over New Zealand, camping out in all sorts of wild places. Interesting tales are told, and friendships made that last ior many years afterwards. Some of last year's party had met on the sum- [ mit of Mount Egmont the Easter be-

fore, and also on the summit of Ngauruhoe two years back.