LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXXIII, Issue 94, 20 April 1912, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London Jt ash ion Notes. WHICH SHALL IT BE? [FBOil OUB OWN COB RESPONDENT. 1 LONDON, 7th March. That is tho problem that ' in, worrying everybody, and tho dilemma has come ttbout because wo )iave too much choice. Each year at this period the millinery •world is too generous with its offerings, but at tho , moment it orrs to an excess bithorto 'Undreamed of c and the chronicler who ' undertook to set down all tho details that go to make lip the presentday millinery would be engaged upon a task of Gargantuan dimensions, for millinery knows more phases of variableness and fickleness than any other section of dres3. Of coursn wo don't really requirfi straw hats at all in this interval, but there thoy all arc, many of them a blaze of colour, and made stilj gayer by a wealth of flowers; but the unsuitabloness of the season does not preclude the attendance (if white straw shapes in large numbers. For tho moment we are most grateful to taffetas, which has ccome to tido us over, a difficult period, and there is now almost an -epidemic of shots about our heads. Entire hats are made of «hot bilk, sometimes with the material stretched tightly over -the foundation, at sthor times arranged in full drawings, whose height and width are regulated and kept in position by wire. Height still matters inoro than width; therefore, there is a great percentage of almost brimless shapes. Yet it must not be taken for granted that width is no_ more seen, because thai would be a mistake. Usually hats wide of brim do not rim to height of crown, but the height has to be introduced, and the me.dia for supplying this necossity are limitless, seeing that there avo tall erections of floral sprays, ostrich cubcades, quill-shaped ornaments made of everything under the sun except plumage, and wings that are tall and compact,, and taper up to a, point as sharp as a needle, to say 'nothing of the mountainous bows of ribbon, and the draperies of silk that finish off in a point that takes unto itself a curly corkscrew twist. But extremes of height and width aru not allowed to havo all their own way, for the most generally noticeable tendency is toward moderation. Spring shapes are for more moderate in all respects than they have been for a number ot seasons, and sparseness of trimming continues to bo one of their characteristics, while another one — and one of far more importance — is that tho head is not huried to anything like the extent it has been in modern times. Attractive shapes, moderate in outline and in their fitting, tire comfortable to wear, and all round they allow plenty to be seen of pretty hair, a concession which has not been granted' for a long while. As for shapes, they, are many and various, and the descriptive names uro just as numerous. When there is width of brim from side to_ side there is general^ shortage of brim back and front. Curious, if x not freakish, are the now shapes for dressy occasions, where there is a great expanse of brim Bhooting out at one side while all tho rest of the way round the brim is Only moderate. The Income in its many phases is btill popular, for there are numerous pretty faces in London to whom the turned-up brim is quite bu-i coming. For useful wear there is a compact'snape, round, with its brim slightly rolled all round the edge, and it is a .shape such as this, probably in navy blu« Tagal straw, which has nearly all the outside of tlio_ straw covered with a piece of stretched silk of bright cerise, leaving little of the straw visible save the top of tho crown and the underneath of tho brim ; a fluffy upstanding osprey is tho trimming, or tho' gourah plume which bears tho stamp of ; Parisian favour, or a pair of quill-shaped ornamentß made of cerise taffetas arranged, in ruches with frayed edges, producing an. effect that is very fluffy and pretty. Vory many of tho shapcb have stretched over the crown a covoriug of florally-printed'mousßolino of toxture so fino that tho flowers appear to be painted ,on to the, straw. In spite of Ifie numerous possibilities of silk, millinors are loth to part with black _ velvet. Thiß is bo becoming and softening to tho face that numerous hats are lined with it, whether the brim is uplifted or not, whether the straw happens to be of light silk or dark. It is rsither interesting to_noto, too (i that little lace frills are appearing as brim linings, also that occasionally one will find a bow of black velvet put underneath the brim as a finish. Last year there were no "burned" straws for useful wear, and there is not much prospect of there being 1 any this year. If a coloured hat is not wanted, then a sort of golden-bronio must be the choice, with brim turned away from tho face with bands of black or colour. Last year tho useful hat was a kind of putty shade, but this year golden-bronze will often be solected for useful requirements whether in millinery, or blouses, or costumes. Generally the tone is less trying for that than -a strong "burned" shade. , Rumours float round of the lace hats which ' will appear in duo course, and of turbans of gossamer tastefully draped, some untrimined, others finished with pompoms as light as thistledown. Just at the present time lace turbans are being worn with lac© frooks in tho evening, at Monte Carlo. Generally speaking, the millinery taken to the south is charming in its simplicity,' but the simplicity is of the costly order, and many of tho plainest-looking hats of faultless line and style cost a good deal more than other hats that aro weighted beneath a burden of feathers and ribbon. Delightfully charming are most of those which are a combination of shot taffotas and a. , good mako of straw. Huts, when, they do not bury the head, require to be lifted a little, and a dotail not yet decided is whether thoro shall bo any 'kind oi bandeau to keep the hat raised from the head. There is not great enthusiasm at tho prospect, and the milliners are experimenting by drawing in tho lining very tightly,_ thus preventing the head • from slipping up into th» crown; thus drawn, the lining provides considerable support and does away with tho' additional weight that ' any species of bandeau must import. Oft THE STAGE. ' ' Everyone is going to tho Royalty to see that wondorful and unique play called "Milestones," whose action i» spread over three generations — in the respective years 1860, 1885, 1012. In the first act the novel discussod is '"Great Expectations," by the time the second stage is reached there i« a curious young lady who wants to read "Ouida," but who has to be content with William Black. In tho last act the manners, and slang, and costumes are those of to-day. Tho dresses aro particularly interesting seeing that they reproduce faithfully tho dress of each period. In tho first tho ladies wear the flounced crinoline, one of them being carried out in pale pink silk, with seven frills, edged with narrow pink velvet bands; the lowpointed bodice is arranged with three rows of frills of white, chiffon, edged with pink silk, and tho sleeves are small and pointod; tiny bows of pink velvet decorate the front of the corsage, and little bunches of flowers are worn in the hair just behind the ears. By 1885 the bustle has taken the place of the crinoline, and the heroine wears a dress of Parma violet silk, cut with a wide trained skirt, trimmed with three deep frills edged with bands of purple velvet and looped up at tho back over a largo bustle. The tight bodioe ot purple velvet is cut to a point and finished with a scalloped frill edged with purple vclvot and silver buttons. Tho nair is brushed away from tbo forffiead and made into a "bun" at the back; a tiny bonnet is the accepted headdross. The third act brings us up to date, and there are lots of lovely gowns. A palo grey churmeuse worn by Miss Haidee Wright, has the skirt gathered a little round and drawn into tho cords which marks tho wuißt; ruchings of satin are carried from shoulders to waist, and so to the foot of the skirt buck and front, and the little chemistere of lace, with its small velvet bows, is outlined with the same stiff, little ruchingH. A second up-tu-dato dress is of deep plum-coloured soft silk,, decorated, pu thft. 4irt, gife-j^

pinked out ruche, and on the corsage with narrowor _ •■ucninps* carried from shouldorg to waist; a wills collar of cream laco and long sleeves of purple chiffon over white complete this drese, which is worn by Miss Wooden. Another of her gowns is of shot and brocaded satin, arranged with a draped fckirt caught up by a jowellod buckle ; tho corsage parjbly of tho brocado and' partly of gold jewelled laic is laid over coriso satin, and tho skirt, whoro it >'s slit up at one_ sido. reveals an undordress of cerise satin lightly veiled with dark bluo chiffon j this drehs suggests tho popularity of fuchsia tints. Dainty indeed is an evening dress of white charmouso voilod with mi overdress of coral pink chiffon; tho chiffon is draped away to thu sides, caught- at the back into a pearl ornament, and bordered down the front with small iridescent crystal beads and blister pearls. The bodice is trimmed with tho same." and the cloak which .covers it is of chintz-covured brocado omboseed with aright gold; on tho loft side this -is cut away at tho hem and edged with croani chenille fringe, while a shawl collar of cream panno is introduced on tho shoulders of the coat and tapers into points at the knees whoro the coat fastons .with a largo chenille motif; another motif appears at the bust, and the <le uollelagu i:> hemmed with skunk, _ while tho loose mandarin sleeves arc finished with deep turnod-back cuffs of tiannc. Miss Jorrold's dress in 'the 1860 scene is of white taffeta covered with spotted net. its many frills edgod with white batin; tho corsage with its fichu of white net strikes ono as being quite up to date, seeing that draped finhus are to characterise the fashions of 1912; the small puffed sleeves are a characteristic of tho period; a spray of forget-me-nots is placed on "one sido of the skirt, and a wreath of the same flowers is worn in the hair. , THINGS TO BE LOOKED. FOR. - Bouillonnes and frayod ruches are to be the most-used trimmings when, taffetas is the fabric to be decorated. Flounces and cordings will be cut away expressly to' reveal the newest tyDe of underdre«s. Much of the drapery will recall the peplum; tho pannier is making a 'fairly successful bid for ' popularity in fashionable circles. Some of the French designers are ieoking to blend the harmony of Grecian draperies witb the distinction of the Second Empire fashions. < One-sided effects have ' long been and their success ib assured for another season, 1 though perhaps it is -chiefly where the evening gown is concerned that the results best please. At least -two kinds of material are wanted for the fashionable gown, often three are introduced, and this without reckoning such details as yoke and sleeves. A coatee of brilliant coloured taffetas has rather a garish sound, worn, an it is intended to be, with a skirt of black charnioubo. Yet tho idea comes from ono of the shops in the Itue de la Paix, and sunie considerable demand is pretty certain. It is .evident we are to be prepared for bright colours, all of which will bb beautiful. Bright rose tints are written of, also variations of tho cherry, coral, and rose dv Barri; thero is a rose mstffonta, and there is another, pink called nolferino. Tho fashionable green suggests the inside of a cabbage; in 'combination _ with cream it will be successful. Paquin makes a point of colours harmonising with -flesh tints md hair tints, and wo are told that for June wear we shall see coarse, olassic bluos, 'certain dark greens, and dark reds, which recall the tint of tho black-red rose. White will bo Drominent for tho evening, and the alliance of white with black will be in bettor company than black -v/ith white. As an evening _ shade arange will Bo wanted, and maize will be found generally becoming. Greun taffetas is mended as a succossful alliance with a dross of maize taffetas, the green forming wdistbelt and Binart little coatoe draped with Mechlin lace. One of tho most perishable of "little nothings" is tho bolero made of tullo in single thickness, worn of course over a satin or mousseline of different colour. The bolero is a simple little tiling drawn lightly on a thread at tho waist and nook; as si finish there is a, deep frill of itsolf which stands out round tho throai, and tho sleeves aro finished in a way to correspond. A French writer foretells 1912 to <be a chiffon and tulle year par excellence, seeing that these filmy fabrics help to form nearlj every evening gown and nearly every smart day dress. The piquancy and originality of the little tulle bolero will doubtless aid its popularity. Thou, further, wo are to be mado acquainted with tulfe of a thicker weight and heavier mesh, which will be found attractive for the smart mantlo or cloak used over a foundation of satin. Tulle iv even to be used for pannier draperies, sometimes of fine mesh, sometimes of .wide mesh. The tulle blouso, mode handsome with wondorful hand embroidery, vrjll be worn with the tailoring suit, in colour exactly to match ; ' about the out and style there will be nothing very new, as tho Magyar pattern is the nio3t usual one. The tulle blouse is worth considering, whether in colour, ecru, white, or black though the texture does not suggest hard wear, it will be found strong and useful and washable. The underslip of the tulle blouee must be something light and daintily trimmed.