LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXIX, Issue 71, 26 March 1910, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London I' ash ion JS'otes. TIIK .BELTED COAT (Frc Our Own Coriespondrnt.) LONDON. 11th February. Alrcai.lv s>:uc of tho experiinoiii.il coot* rhow a belt round tho viai*t, or perhaps tome durance below it, and now «c hate definitQ a.^uranc- 1 that smartest cont^ will have a belt— a hip bolt, in fact — exactly like tho I'ttle blouse corns ono sees on children To give thih peculiar effect tho waLts thcin<H\c* look hirge— in fuct tltarc it no real uaisthno nt nil, co the belted coai is not in the becoming catcjforv. Tho belt is often r>ut to hide llip junction of the added jdhmjuc — si iomv.i! of a former btyle— which in introduced someuhoro iibout the hi|>-line. Wrap coaU arc nucc&aary a k an accompaniment to a Princess cirav, and although rather wrrm ninterjals are now being u«ed in their construction, presently tho choice »«ill lie botweon tussore, cloth, silk, moire, r»nd t-atin ; thcs« coats aro to be very kimplc, often with tho roll collar oponin/r down tho front. Tho nowe«t coats tor tcrge *uit-. ure short, and have cuff* aud collars of tome fnncy material •uch nt foulard or moire, or tho rcvers may be of white, piped with a contrasting braid, or even of chino and flowered silk. A material which the tailors are going io use is tuxsoro cloth, which is rather thicker than the ordinary BhantimK, and it has a mixture of mohair and bilk in it* weave. (.'oats and ikirti, both of the lighter make and of this moro weighty material, will be worn right on through tho Reason, and somo of the latest colouring* am delightful, particularly perhaps the now blues. Mohairs or alpacaz aro other mat* rials to be revived at n subsequent date. Soveral new mokes of bilk havo been put on tha market, but the tailors eeem inclined to fn\our tho heavy rich Shantung moro than anything else ; much of it i; ribbed like an Ottoman silk. -There arc a few people who still like the coat and skirt of moire, despite its hard and fombrc appearance, and thero nro othart who aro Koiujr to givo satin a turn. Gouts and ckirU of black satin havo been rcen. hore and there for borne little while;, just ai have theme of velvet, but it seems a* if ratin «uiU will maintain their present hold and powibly increase it. At the moment tho tailor: are experimenting «Uh tho nockot on tho tuit of xatin ; this now featuro takes tho form of an onormoui sloping opening on either sido of the coat, about twelve inches iv length, trimmed with a step-ladder of brandebourgs with barrels. With thc«o coats of black satin the skirts worn aro ridiculously tight and 6kimpy — they seldom mea-jure moro thau two and a half yards round tho hem. .Scanty fkirts do nianago to maintain a posrtion which ii surprising; their disappearing has long been talked of, bu^ «om<?how it has .not vet come to pass. Tho idea teems to be that tho Pariftienno does not like the idea of parting wtih the narrow silhouette, and there is just a possibility therefore that the narrow skirt may be frequently seen for a. long while to com*-, i»articularly as the' eulotte has been introduced to wear beneath it. THL NEW GARMENT. The closely-clinging ■ silk maillot vas found rather too cool for the winter ; the silk petticoat it. considered to be too bunchy for wearing beneath tho scanty fkirt, so sonic ingenious person thought of the culottc. This i> fn<-hione'd much after the pattern of Turkijh pantaloons, worn by Eastern women ; it reaches aa far as the ankle-bone, v.hero il is confined with elastic. Satin is tho materiel UHtally selected, and this rnntches tho ilress in colour; there is a lining of fine wadding to impart the necer6«ry warmth; a Mibstituto will bo found in woolbacked satin. In tome respects the culolte is n sensible- garment, but women who discard nil their petticoats have such c draggle-tailed appearance about the feet. NARROW SKIRTS. Moso material is allowed for bodices, provided the waist-lino h preserved with plain severity, and snmo of tho skirts aro much drnprd and looped up hero and there. But a great many of the dree.l skirts as wnll as of the tailored skirts aro vory nanow, particularly bo in tho region -of tho ankles. Moro nnd more nuniPrnus mo tbo tunics gatl'ored into bands of embroidery just above tho kneos, or banded with satin rebbon, and oven tho longest skirts aro givon an inward lino by tho cutter. If tho material is thin, it is gauged and gathered together so as to form a tight lino round tho hips, round the knees, or round the ankles— sometimes at two of these pointn. If a front panel \b introduced, as well ai ono down fho miiWlo of tho back, tho sides How out in kilted pleats. People desirous of being thoroughly up to dato must nianago to achic\i> flatness belovf tho wnist as tho back. At yinurt ronorte the feninlo ligurvs seem« to havo been pared away to inept all tho latest caprices of fa«hion. \>'oa.-ons of tho tight ekirts teom to have io shuffle along — they ennnot walk, nnd tlioir movements *r« consequent!} finiekj. VARIOUS DETAILS. Frequently it i« found that tho up-to-c'ato yol;o and sloeveti of dress bodices aro cut in one piece, and somo of the tleevcs aro long und cling closely to the arm, outlined with buttons. Others, cgain, aro cut just suLlioiontiy long to turn tho elbow, where fthero is a finish of the narrowest possiblp Jiltlo ruohing of lrntcrial ot of somo such fabiic as chiffon or ninon, but frqni tho shoulder to «n moh or so above tha olbow jho lit is perfectly oloso, and without a wrinklo or a fold. If thoro is a dress collar it h high though not sutrgnfttivu of cholrinp<is, but in all probability overy cflon> will bo made, to do away altogether with tho up standing dress collar— it» &übs\if>uto will be » Peter I'r.n llnish or n Toby frill Ihe latter lies flat round tho collarbone; it is closely and finely pleated, " n Y i 9,, v .V, lolJ i v " f o«inbrif. Some of the Toby frills havo a second frill below outlined *ith a narrow lace. But tho collai-Jess gown ij not for tho multitude. The flufty wido frilling has soon it« best, days, and when thero is an upstanding Urciw collar of laco or net it is outlined round tho top with cordings or pipvngi of velvet or fllk or satin, usually march. n>g tho dres* m colour. Variation wni.l contrnut aro obtained by uning a douWp cording or two different colours. Then, too, tho tismes of gold, silver, and metallic tonings aro used to impart variety and further chango can bo obtained by J using narrow flat l>aiid» of ribbon or velvef covered with small gold or particoloured beads; th?«o bunds errtainly impart an appeflranco of brightness to a dull dress, and v jewelled cabochon can bo introduced hero and thero to enhanco tho olfect. Tho guimpo and slcevos aro always of whito or rcru net or lace, no matter whut tho tono of tho dres\ so tho addrd touch of colou.- mund tho throat n» pleasing. Somn of tho guimpes aro ot threo Inycr»— a chiflon foundation, on top of this a la>or of gold or silver tissue, and then tho not or lace, tho Mispioion of cparklo thus imparted v dninty. Another finish for the neclc ii of plait.j od eilk, inotching the dress or contrasting I with it. Many of tho new self-colonrod tissuo gowns aro completed with plaifinga of the tissue, nnd these aro ropuated on the cuffs. Triple pipings of silk muslin or ninon ccn aUo be introducud, but caro must bo token to sse that the DJpings aro laid logother closely, or the wholo effect will be marred. These cordings and pipings, which add to tho height of tho collar, certainly impart a neat nnd trim uppptiranct) to the throat. Now that thoro is so much flowered silk ribbon to be had for a few penco a yard, investment in «omo will not bo wasted, because on lingerie dresses later on wo shall sco a narrow band of chino hilk ribbon round the neck, finished m front with a f.mall flat bow bonoath tho chin, while tho uccompunying unistbelt .vill correspond. Tho fashion of mutching tho waistbelt and tho piping «t the neck is suro to ha*o a large and lasting following. Ribbons of a gßtize toxturo arc good stylo, and some of th? frocks of chiffon aro made with panniers falling in full folds to tho hem of tho dross then swept round and draped once moro almost to tho waist, where they are held by a big bow of gauze ribbon; similar ribbon forms a baud right round the

pannier, and is repented on lho bodice. \nv contrast will !><■ oncournpnl, «o Innp us tho colour* hftrnionis<>, i:i.<l innny of the ribbon 1 ) nro shot to accord < \actl.\ with tho fihof Win*!. Tlioio i- no limit io their possible iw, nnd ihp millineia aro going Io make up fur lo^t unio.