GARDENING NOTES.

Evening Post, Volume LXXVII, Issue 133, 12 June 1909, Page 12

GARDENING NOTES.

(By "Experience.") Roses. Planting may be continued. It should also be brought to a finish as soon as convenient; no advantage is gained by leaving it later, yet it may bo done with perfect success, for the next three months, if proper steps are taken. Pruning time has now arrived, and should not be delayed. For a long time after pruning, the plants are apparently dormant, yet they never are really so in this mild climate. The sap is never quite still; it is always exerting somo influence. After pruning, it is at work on the buds, gradually forcing them out of the wood, and plumping them up. Plants that are transplanted should always be_ severely pruned. Supposing the moving is left till late, and they then have to be cut hard back, the lower buds will not have had the opportunity for development during the winter months, and will not break away so strongly as they should. Therefore, any that are to be transplanted should be moved now, if only to a temporary home. If they are to be purchased get them now, prune them at once, and heel them in till the permanent place is ready. In their temporary quarters they will make new roots, and if carefully handled, will scarcely feel the next shift, whereas if not lifted till late they have to make new roots at that time, and the start is delayed. Pruning. — Any attempts to describe the science of pruning leave something to individual judgment after all, for circumstances differ, and also the same plant in different gardens. Yet in one respect there is no difference, viz., all young plants — that is, one year from bud or cutting — should be cut hard back, and also all that are transplanted, be- ' cause in these instances the only object of the pruner is to promote growth, knowing that flowers will follow. Many are afraid 'to cut well back, thereby making a good plant very small. They should take another view of it, and instead of thinking they are cutting off branches, think they are cutting stronger ones on, for that is what is really being done in most cases. The exception is when plants that have been making very gross growths are lifted to check that evil ; the check at the roots will prevent them making such strong growth, but in all cases a plant that is cut hard back will make a stronger growth than it would if pruned less hard. Pruning established bushes varies with the different sections. In the hybrid perpetual section it consists of a shortening of all growths mado during the past season, the extent of such shortening depending, firstly, on the strength of the wood, and secondly, on j the purpose of the pruner. When the growth has been of more than normal strength pruning must not be severe; for, as before pointed out, the further you cut back, the stronger the growth that follows. To make the matter clear, I have a plant of that best of all whites — Frau Karl Druschki — which, planted' three years ago, is now ovei 6ft. high, and as much across. It is well branched, and this season bore literally hundreds ot blossoms. Were this cut hard back I should expect it to get top-heavy with growth, and perhaps, fewer flowers. I shall leave all strong shoots nearly 12in. long tapering down to two buds on weak shoots, and shall expect a still greater harvest of bloom next season. Other bushes of the same variety have only mado shoots 30in. long. These will each, be shortened to about two buds. A Charles Lefebore has thick straight shoots over 6ft. high ; he must be lilted and replanted, at the s&me' time cutting each shoot down to about two buds. All bushes should have very weak shoots cut right aw,ay, and that is usually the first part of pruning. Then deal with the I stronger shoots, cutting medium growths back to two uuds, and strong ones a little less hard. Shape the bush to a good outline, the centre being highest. Hybrid Teas are mostly 'pruned the same as the foregoing, though some think 'the pruning should be a little less severe ; but there is little need to vary much — indeed, very i'ew know the difference between the two classes, which is often more one of parentage than of actual difference of habit. Tea roses are claiming most attention just now, because of the lovely buds, though for roses you must still go to the hybnd psrpetuals. The pruning of this section is qui.te different from that of the former, except in ono case, which shall be noticed later. Here the habit is different, and the same radical shoitening back will not do ; in this case it is quantity that is sought for more frequently than large blooms. All weakly shoots should be cut hard back, the bush having been first cleared of any old branches clad with effete fide fhoots. Young healthy growths are then only moderately shortened, little in fact, beyond removing the immature tips clown to as low as they may show that condition. As with the former section, always try to get a shapely bush. It" show blooms arc required, both sections must be pruned the same, and this is the exception hinted at. Show blcoms, however, are not grown on old plants, but plants about two years old. The first year of planting they are to be cut close down to where they startea from. Climbing roses should be so treated, as to preserve young wood. Cut away old twig-laden branches, and lay in young rods ; these must not be shortened much — merely remove the tips that are unripe, cutting back to the fiist good bud. These young rods should be trained in any position except perpendicular ; if laid quite horizontal so much the bet--ter as the shoots will break from the sides with greater freedom. In the case of climbers itbat have not made any strong shoots, the old ones must bo kept and the sido shoots all spurred back. Beds and borders will now require their annual digging and manuring. 1 like to spread, the manure some time before it is to be dug in, so that rain may -wash a good deal of it into the soil, which \\ ill eventually cover it ; the top soil will then contain a good supply of vnutrient matter which will be washed down to the roots by rain. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Broad beans may be sown for early use ; they will come in to use early in November. Cabbage, cauliflower, an& lettuce plants may be put out as soon as the autumn sown plants are stroi>g enough. The last lot of celery may be fully earthed up ; it will stand woli through wintfci. Brussels sprouts should be cut off with a knife, not broken off; more sprouts will then form. When broken off they tear away against the stem, and no more can grow. Cover seakale for forcing as required. Never leave | ! ground to grow weeds ; get it turned \ i over ; weeds rob the soil and prevent ; the fertilising properties in the atmosphere from entering it. The dirtiest garden is always most troubled with slugs. i THE FRUIT GARDEN. The mild weather that has prevailed for so long has not been favourable to resting. Gooseberry buds look ready to burst, and the black currants have ripe ; berries and blossoms on them. Fortunately, these unseasonable appeanoices are mostly on the upper parts of the i shoots ; the correct treatment will be to let them alone, and do ;no pruning till they are nearly ready to ttart growth, otherwise the upper buds may break too i early. Cuthbert raspberry evidently intends to be evergreen ; it is full of young foliage, and a few blossortis and berries are to be seen. • It will be quite worth- j W= next season.