LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXVII, Issue 133, 12 June 1909, Page 11

LADIES' COLUMN.

London JBashion Notes. THE TAILOR-MADE IX PARIS. (From Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 30th April. 1 Coats and tkirlh are more worn in Paris at the moment than are dresses, in spite of the sumrnerlike weather. These tailormades havo remarkably skimpy skirts, cut in lines that dope from the waist to the hem, allowing just a little fulness round tho edge of the skirt. The accompanying coats are all extremely long, and arc cut with attenuated lines that make the figure appear thin. Thus \ery little of the skirt w -visible, and a great dcol of coat. Tho shoulders are shaped to give somewhat a square effect, and they are moulded; from them the sleeves outline the arm closely to the wrist. A writer in Paris oharacterisea theso coats and skirt* as "decidedly bizarri," and requiring Frenchwomen to wear them, with Paris for the background. Tho skirt is at least three or four inches off the ground all round, consequently there is a good deal of ankle visible, necessitating careful attention to shoes and boots. Theso are often made of soft kid, suede, or cloth, to match the costume ; heels are of the Louiti Quatonje period. Tho shoes are finished on the instep -with flat buckles and with wide loons of ribbon, which make the foot look even toore thin than it is. The accompanying stockings of spun silk or mercerised thread aro exactly the co,lour of the shoes, so the ensemble is complete, and it ought to bo pleasing, provided wise choice is made of colour. Finn serges and fine tweeds and cloths are chosen by the French tailors for the spring coats' and skirts ; some of them are working 'with the new and heavy makes of Shantung silk, which 1« ns weighty as a heavy bcngaline. THE MITTEN CUFF. Sleeves are long and tight and clinging, for, despito all that hau been said to the ■contrary, the sleeves of this summer are to remain as tight, as long, and ds transparent as they have been during the winter months. Indeed, most will be made with a "mitten" cuff that will continue the material from the shoulder to the knuckles of the wearer, and thus enable her to dispense entirely with gloves during the days of the warmest weather. Some of the sleeves are, however, sufficiently full to take away the stick-like look of the arms in the very tight ones that givo the appearance of jointed wood. Thero are sleeves which are fully gathered, but yet define the shape of the arms. It is possible to have sleeves cut in one with the bodice. SOME MATERIALS. Satin is still' the favourite fabric for trimming serge, cloth, and other walking costumes, such as Shantuijg and tweed, chiefly in black; but satin in all colours is in. great demand. The silks and satins of the season are wonderfully soft and pliant, while the many varieties of net and silk muslin, of. silk gaiue and of ninon, help to make the choice of materials practically an endless one. Very fine silk gauzes 6hot with two, and sometimes even with three colours, will be in demand for evening wear, made up at times over gold or silver filet net, which ill its turn is mounted on satin, repeating one of the colours seen in the shot gauze. Strong silk nets are the boet for dance frocks, being .far more durable than chiffon, tulle, or mousseline do soie; at the same timo they aro equally light and dainty ,in effect, whilo the laet of their afcronger texture makes them specially suitable as a background for elaborato embroideries, which are always more or lees heavy, and which do tear a chiffon after only a small amount of wear. These nets are to be had in all colours as well as in white, arid the most youiMul-looking aro made very simply, trimmed round tho hem with gathered flounces of net, put on in small festoon's and caught hero and there with quaint little bows of silver ribbon, finished with fringed ends, and arranged almost, in the manner of tho Early Victorian frocks; tho equally simple bodices are finished^ with draped berthes of net, trimmed with silver ribbon bow 6, and arranged with short not sleeves, held in round the arm with a band of silver ribbon linishod with email bows to match those on the corsage, and skirt. Gold and silver tissue are again being immensely - worn for evening dress, but whereas last year silver was the favourite tone, thero is now a tendency to place gold in tho front rank. It is almost always veiled with some colour or mixture of colours. Nothing could bo more fairylike than a gown of rich gold tissue veiled in gauze of sunset pink, painted with pelargonium petals in white and every possible shade, the gold tissue showing through. Velvet dot 3 have taken the place of velvet stripes in brocad-eel- materials, and velvet rings are al«o accorded a share of popular favour. Biecuii cloth coats ar* seen with revers of pale blue velvet, patterned with large oval velvet dots in biscuit colour, and aro liked by those who patronise tho striking and bizaaro in fashion. NECK WE AE. In neckwear there is now even more variety than formerly. yery neat ore the Gretchen collars, finished wi^h an edging of French embroidery, or with a band of Irish lace medallions. Jabots are worn with this stylo of collar, and this season they are longer than ever. Some of the newest designs in jabots 'are of pleated tulle trimmed with insertions of Irish lace. Three short cascades aro more fashionable than the one long piece, and the general tendency ie in favour of the narrow effects which end in either pointed or serrated patterns. With the Shantung dresses, the large gauffered jabot, which is such a favourite item with the French woman, will havo its tiny black velvet bow introduces at the throat. Subtle touches ot black velvet are introduced on to washing dresses of muslin, etc., and long streamers oi black velvet are important details in the millinery world.