GARDENING NOTES.
(By "Experience.") , THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. It often happens that certain parts of the garden are bare of crops at this time. Very frequently such spots are left to grow weeds till wanted for use. That is wrong ; the ground should be turned over and over and kept clean. While clear of weeds, and with a loose surface, the soil is drawing fertilising properties from the atmosphere, which will be of immense value to new crops. Moreover, clean ground does not foster slugs and other insect pests. Now is a good time to do any trenching that requires to be done. This may be new ground, or to improve old. In country places, crops are frequently grown cm ploughed land. Soil so prepared seldom produces crops many seasons. It is usual to think that three years is the limit, and there is good ground for the opinion. Usually sorrel takes possession after that time, and the soil seems worn out. It is seldom anything but artificial manure is used m such places, and the soil becomes exhausted for want of humus. Where there is a clay subsoil the land gets out of condition quicker than where it overlies a porons substance. Cultivatior destroys the roots of grasses, etc., which, previously penetrating to som« depth, provided minute channels for water to percolate > through and reach the lower strata of soil or gravel. The sole of the ''plough passing repeatedly over a clay subsoil closes up all pores, leaving a smooth, shiny surface, which effectually dams xhe water, causing it to lay a long time in the surface soil, which becomes sour from the exclusion of air. Not until spring is merging into summer does such soil return to anything like sweetness, and become able to produce satisfactory growth. The remedy usually adopted is to make a n&w garden, and sow down the old with grass seed. There is no need for this, nor is it always possible ; deep trenching and, perhaps, draining will make a permanent garden. It is almost useless to break up £he subsoil unless something is put in to keep it open, for the rainfall of the first winter would wash it all together again. Any kind of vegetable matter will do to work in at the bottom — the cleanings of roads, with its grit, manure, and weeds ; the bottoms of old haystacks, spent hops, and even spent tanner's" bark. This latter is, in fact, a valuable material for the purpose- -plants root into it very freely. The same ground can be cultivated for the production of vegetables for an indefinite number of years ; in fact, the same ground has been used for generations in the Old Country. It is not the soil that feeds the plants ; it is but the medium for fixing the roots while they absorb plant food, and if the soil does not contain it, it must be added, and so long as that is done, and the soil kept in proper tilth by cultiva tion, it will grow plants. Old gardens often require re-trench-ing ; it is usual then to bring the bottom ' soil to the top, trenching in plenty of manure, or, as said before, any vegetable mattei. Thus the soil, to whatevei depth it may be worked, all becomes alike, so that when the top spit gets worn, the bottom layer comes up for work. It is better to trench now than later on, because it gives the soil a chance to settle down by means of winter rain ; left till spring, it might lay too loose, and, being poroas,' dry out too quickly. That largely depends on the character of the soil. Sea kale plants may be cleared of the old foliage and the soil lightly dog to clean it of weeds ; a dressing of salt and soot will keep the clumps safe from slugs, etc. Cut off asparagus tops, close to the soil ; a sickle is as good as anything to use. Clear off weeds in such a-w-a^ as not to break up the sofl. deeper than can .be avoided. The roots should be disturbed as little as possible. Give } a good coat of manure. Where seaweed is available, it may be used in lieu of other manure, but it has no special advantages that would warrant any extra expenditure to procure it.j it has been proved that quite as good asparagus can be produced without seaweed as with it. THE GREE-NHOCSE. Coleus will shortly be past the useful stage. In former years it was necessary -to harbour them all winter ; now it is not necessary, for most excellent strains can be got from seed, so all that is advisable is !,o take care of any extra good variety. The best way iB to strike cuttings in small pots — they require but little room — and throw away all the old plants. Cyclamen should now be got under cover if they have been standing outside, or if planted out they should be lifted into pots at once. Place them in cold frames in a position shaded from the sun during the hottest part of the djiy. Libonias should be lifted from the open ground and potted, also solanums ; these should now be well clad with ripe berries. Some may be lost in the process of re-establishing, but plenty more will follow if care is taken to keep tb,e Elants cool and shaded till new growth egins. Primulas may be kept warmer now, and supplied with moderate quantities of liquid niauure ; they require treatment varying with different circumstances. If in frames they must have abundant air ; if an ordinary lean-to frame with sliding lights, remove the lights altogether on dull daya. Gold damp is inimical to them, but in warm houses less air should be given. Cinerarias should now be of considerable size if they are expected to make specimens. It is a mistake to grow cinerarias mixed up with other plants ; during the growing period they require special treatment ; moreover, it is well known that most plants do better when grown in quantities by themselves than in mixed lots. When potting on, the soil should not be too rich ; it is not rich soil that must be looked to to make large plants, nor poor either, but just medium. Rich soil encourages a leafy plant with a weak root stock ; suah a ylant is liable to collapse suddenly at any time. The soil should be of such a character that the roots must take entire possession of it ; this way is built up a plant with a strong constitution, a plant that will take feeding when the last pot is full of roots, and that may be expected to make a creditable specimen. It is important to preserve all the leaves, if any are lost the plant will be spoiled. Cleanliness in all surroundings, and no crowding, are necessary factors ; a cool and fairly moist atmosphere, plenty of air without draughts, plenty of light without direct sunshine. I have often found ib necessary to give but little air during the hottest part of | the day, because giving air dried the I atmosphere and caused the foliage to droop : but as soon as tlie sun got low j the house could be opened, and kept i | open all night. Frequent light fumi- j gating will keep off greenfly, which will be better than killing them with heavier doses after they are on. A constant j smell of tar will keep away most of the moth that deposit eggs of the leaf miner, I have found it so ; syringe the plants, and the whole interior of the house frequently with tar-water.
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Evening Post, Volume LXXVII, Issue 102, 1 May 1909, Page 12
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1,279GARDENING NOTES. Evening Post, Volume LXXVII, Issue 102, 1 May 1909, Page 12
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