LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXIV, Issue 78, 28 September 1907, Page 15

LADIES' COLUMN.

London. l?ti.sliion Notes. (From Our Oun Coi-rcswonaent.) 2nd August, 1907 From the dross point of view, tho Goodwood raCe6 have again been marred by the wretchedly chilly > and showery weather. There were, of course, innumerable nnislin dresses to be seen, the most popular, being those of either black and white or blue and white 6tripes ; there were also a few sensible serge dresses of blue, while there was, on the whole, far more di&play of wraps and cloaks than of goigeous dresses underneath. There were many exponents of the long clinging wraps that have como into fashion this year, in various shade* of rose-ied, biscuit, gieon, champagne, white, etc. ; theisc clodks really seem to be more appropriate for evening wear, and they usually follow in shape the lines of the kimono; the material us-ed is face cloth, and this is generally braided in some elaborate design. One of the besl-likod coats of the moment is thai which has no sleeve beyond the cape that falls ovei each arm, sometimes loosely shaped to the form of a isleeve, but more often"" not. . This latter is so easily slipped on, even over a s=hort sleeve, that it commends itself to a large class ; the kimono sleeve. 6uch a favourite- at present, with its hanging net or chiffon, is easily crushed by an outer sleeve, but the cape form of arm covering leaves jit undamaged. Many of these coats are made with ia.w edges, the materinl being left unhemmeJ, unstitched. One, of cream cloth, was made in the form of v double cape, one long enough to reach below (he rtri^t, the other covciiug half the distance between shoulders and waist. Of quite a different type iff the very useful coat, which has rather a full skirt, leacliinp nearly to tho hem of the dresr=, and gatheied iuto h -waistband. Tho ulster has had a »;ient success recently, tho very ample flow of mnteriiil in the i-Viri contrasting with the closeness of fit that do&> away with every supeifJuoiH scrap of cloth, while nt the same time the | skill of the tailor is such tlwt he always j man.npes to cony.v somo impression ' of partial looseness favourable to v slirr 1 appearance. I'oits of some fair!}' vnrm description I'ave bssn accessory adjuncts of summer dies» throughout the whole of the season that is just about to close. A conspicuous novelty, to b°. «cii at smart afteinoon-tesi vx\d lurches.") resorts in London, consists of the Pompadour coat of brichtlv coloured sili.' worn over a dress of white or rrennt l-' r e or chiffon. The coat is dosely fitting, has cutaway fronts, and is of about fln-ee-quarter length at the back; 'he -sleeves 'are of tht'po-quarter leugth. nnd about the neck there is some fnssine«s in the way of lace. A very new touch is a feature of somo of these taffetas coats, nnmelv. the uuder-arni seam is not intended to meet by a wWe and eraduated expanse ; tliis hiatus is laced with Olaek velvet ribbon, the portion immediately under the arms being considerably 'wider than at the waist ; in front, this new species ot coat is fastened with handsome pissementerio. buttons and cords. Mention is made of the fact that the latest walking-skirt measures fully nhin yards round the hem ; the material is arranged in very wide pleats, winch aie j stitched down perfectly flat on the hips nni' allowed to flow out below that pojnt. These skirts are in light taffeta-s silk, of any colour, or of hair-stripes, and they are untrimmed — a .feature which characterises so many skirts of the moment. They depend for their effect upon cut and draping ; these taffetas skirts are useful to wear with whitr-'silk blouses-, and they do nicely for unceremonious indoor occasions, as well as for outdoor wear. This season nil- the representatives of our Royal Family are wearing plain and full and naturallyfalling skirts. For seaside and country weir, the tucked skirts are set in very full to the wai/stband nt tho back and 6i'des. 'and there is often a seam down the front, wpII gored, instead of a govo each side of the Iront breadth ; when the material is striped the stripes are brought together to form upright V shape or reversed V shape all the way down the front width. A number of short walking skirts are finished with a two-inch band of ribbon in some colour, which either may match the material o^ contrast with it ; for instance, o useful frock of natural coloured tussore silk riiay have a ribbon band round the skirt of any colour, with bretelles and belt to match, and a touch of the same colour repeated in the hat. Even navy blue Merges ate being treated in this manner, bound at the edge with velvet of another colour — green or cerise, perhaps — and touches of the same introduced elsewhere; one ha 6 to become accustomed to this treatment of navy serge, thoueh there is no difficulty in picturing its charming effect on creßm serge costumes. Sleeves of quite a different colour from tho dress have made a distinct feature of some very much up-to-date costumes recently ; for instance,' an evening dress of black tulle had sleeves of that peculiar shade of pink known as "cyclamen." We shall not be able fo accustom ourselves to odd sleeves all in an instant. We have been accustomed to black hats trimmed with white feathers, biy^ now we are to accustom ourselves to white liats plumed with black. And we have similarly to get used to a. drees of white silk muslin, finished with fichu and sleeves of 'black silk muslin, the long ends of the fichu flowing to the edge of the skirt. We are threatened with an epidemic of Paisley patterned silk for dresses for swell occasions, tho pattern and colours being faithfully copied from the historic shawl ; and no supplementary trimming is to be introduced save heavy bands of black velvet, which will have the elfect of throwing the pattern into stronger relief. In their construction, a Second Empire cut and style are introduced, ths skirts being looped up over tucked un derskirts and hemmed with velvet. Very fine braids, of different colours, blended with braids of gold and silver and sewn by hand into motifs, as well as into trimmings by the yard ; are promised for early autumn. Tt is, of course, plain materials, such as facecloth, that best exploit charming trimmings, so there is no doubt that facecloth will be just ai fashionable as ever later on, although there will bo striped fabrics ns well for those who prefer them. It is reported that striped velvets are among Parisian, novelties, and that stripes of colour will Kiicceed tho black and white stripings of the present. There are some new tones to be looked for — middle-tones, in purple and Hue — and braided trimmings are being made specially to go with these particular colourings. A novelty in ties is recorded from Paris, where a leader of i fashion has been seen wearing a tie of I white silk a hand-bicadth wide, cm- | broidered in smnll coloured design. Ihe centre of it is fastened in front with a ! gold safety-pin, and tho tie is knotted ut tho back and allowed to fall in long ends.