LADIES' COLUMN.

Evening Post, Volume LXXIV, Issue 66, 14 September 1907, Page 11

LADIES ' COLUMN.

London Fashion Notes. (Fiom Our Own Correspondent.) LONDON, 12th July. .Sumo of tas Frj-.i.-h h it< urs t2irib!o in th-ir points of exaggeration. Among tho favourite shapes Iho cloche stands out prominently* and now it is a modified and altogether iiiirccognisnbb edition of tliD English mualuoom— the crown being considerably higher and tha brim much more irregular in outline than as seen here. The French "cloche" has a straight . brim all round, but it ia short in front and broad at both sides, whilst at the back it is enormou.sly wide —so wide; indeed doi'g tho fashionable Parisiemi!) wear tlw'baek brim of her cloche that it rcotb upon the nape of her neck; for it is to bo noticed that whereas tho bums of fashionable hats a year ago wo.ro turned up. they are now nil bent down to fhc utmost extent. The clocho hat must be trimmed only in front, according to latest instructions. Until a few weeks ago all the French cloche, hats were trimmed with a hugu taffeta bow in th? front, or clso had wido outspread wings of black and white intermingl-ed foixning a bow. Now Howcrs are all the rago for these, and .at tho race meetings all tho smartest women are wearing their eloehs hats, made ul lino straw, trimmed with perfect flowers — gardens of flowers of ail descriptions and colours mixed. Ono of the latest innovations where, millinery is concerned is that of black hops which are substituted . for brilliantly hued flowers, and a curious effect is gained in tho case of white hats wreathed with thesß hops, which have a more decidedly mourning effect even than black ribbon or black ilowers. In some, cades the hops .are , introduced on burnished moidoro straws and are interspersed generously with green foliage and loops of black taffetas ribbon. "Magpie' 1 ros-tis are new and they aro freolj used on the largo hats made of whit© rice straw, silk and velvet form tha basis of these new rosss, tho outer petals being of black velvet and the centres of. pure white silk, while- black velvet leaves aro tho accompaniment. Large lilies.- aie exceedingly prominent florals adornments of summer hats ana tha latest varieties are m.ide of lace, a* arc also orchids and other flowers ; i thus it is possible now to see an admixture of mauve- wisteria with whits lace lilies. No trimming, for useful occa- I sions, has proved so popular ac tha taffetas loop formed into ;i huge bow that hides the crown, even although the latter be quite high ; thifa is regarded as a par- J ticularly safe choice, in black upon a hat of biscuit-coloured Tuscan straw j edged with black. In such a case any touch of colour desired is given by the bi!j-h?aded hatpins, which run in a re- i markablc range of \arioty. Fruit hatpins aio being used a good deal, especially tho cherry-headed ones, eith?r efngly I or , in bunches, and bunches of vnnpegrapes form auotlicr styta of finish as a pin-head. Tassels £e?m to ent«»r into sill kinds of dress, 1 and now they have found their way into the, realm of hair ornaments foi the latest idea i:: to twist a thick rop? of gold cord among th^ coils of hair, th.> cord being finished with a heavy gold tassel which must fall over tho right car and depend almost to the shoulders,. Another v?ry popular hair ornament coirJstt- of chaplets of mottled laurel-l-saves .'aid one over the other with a cluster of realistic looking cherries deponding fiom them on Oc'ch eido, and although 'm some instances flowers take the place of Iho cherries, there is no denying the fact that fruit in (ho realm of hair ornanisntji is considered to gi^e far more cachet to the toilette, and so thera aro to -bo had* Japanese medlars arranged vith a chaplet of blue shaded velvet leave;-, or there are also unripe plums supplemented with a delicate silver foliage which are- introduced^ in the same connection, thes? hair ornaments being worn with almost any description of evening toilet, regardless of style or material. 'People in society arc now thinking of Goodwood and hoping for better weathir than has co far attended race-mcctings this yeai. Coats are of wonderfully bright hues thw year, and oiangc, rosered, bright blue, apricot, and yellow arc being worn at, racc-meetingy at> w-jll as on other open-air occasions. Spanish capos, too, are popular; they have no fastening at all, and are madu rather on tha lines of a burnous with a V instead of a hood at the back; they aro kept in place by folding over the- front, and are mad^ in coarse serge or cloth. The protlieisi aro perhaps those in dark colour" lined with some bright hue. in thin woollen material, tho .lining being ornamented near tho edi?<?s.\\ith braiding of some description. Long capes are made with sleeves, and it is consideied that the shoves* grcitly increase the comfort of the cape. But three-quarter or fulllength coats, rut. to follow the lines of the figure without closely fitting it, are. ths chief wear, made, very frequently, of cashmeve in a pretty light colour with collar and revers of heavy gold bullion embroidery on coarse 6ilk. The charming dustcloak of other years has had to giveway to the thin cloth and thick Shangtung silk, chiefly on account of tho w rote-hod , weather. Wraps, especially tlioso for tho evening, aro ti&ually cut very full, in fact, almost round", tho sleevflo buing made in the saino piece, drawn 'together in kimono fashion ; round the shoulders where, tho fulness of tho flowing cape ceases and the stuff lies nearly plain, tharo may bo a simulated rouncf yoko of embroidery, laid about the edge of the (-boulders or not, but invariably these wraps end in a small circular collar of embroidery or' velvet in a different colour from that of tho cloak itself. Loose, wraps for evening are nearly all of Oriental cut, and here the kimono sleeve is really useful, for it slips on ow an evening bodice without crushing it or its dainty ilyawayp of tullo which at present do duty for sleeves.