GARDENING NOTES.

Evening Post, Volume LXX, Issue 61, 9 September 1905, Page 12

GARDENING NOTES.

[Br Expkbienok.3 THE FRUIT GARDEN. It may be considered late for remarks' on pruning, but there are still a good many trees about that are waiting attention, just as there are many acres that will yet be planted this spring. It is quite easy for the gardener with a, dozen or two trees to plant to get them in early, and quite right to do so. The orchardist, planting acres, finds it by' no means easy always to be strictly up to time. As a matter of fact there is time yet, for planting can extend nearly through this month without harm. I know one fairly large pla^'er who has not yet got his ground pit i*rhed, and I have myself a thousand .Vees yet to plant in orchard. Reverting to prun-' mg : I have recently dealt with this subject, but observation h-Xi shown me that there is room fpr few more I words on one part of pruLMg. No one should be allowed to cut •> tree who is not acquainted with, its l ife's history. Every pruner should know what will be the result of each cut, or, in other words, each cut should ha.™ a purpose, j and not be put in haphazard. There is science in pruning, and the art is only to be acquired by observation, guided by experience. The A.8.0. of the business is, however, easily acquired. I have before endeavoured to make plain some of the leading rules, but I, still see great carelessness, or something, ie one important item. It is of great importance that each cut should be made in such a manner that the cut will speedily heal over. To do this it is necessary that the cut end at a bud, because a bud must be the starting point for new growth, and any wood left above the highest bud remaining on a shoot will certainly die back to the bud. These, pieces may be seen sticking up at the base of young shoots, and if the only harm done was their ridiculous appearance, it would not matter much. But these dead snags are inimical to the Tvell-belng of a, tree. They prevent a perfect flow of sap, but worst of all perhaps is the lodgment, these snags will eventually afford to blights, for when they die back they become decayed, and leave a wound in the living wood. When cutting a shoot the knife should be inserted on the side opposite to that on which the bud is, and be through the shoot' so as to come o.ut just above the bud, but very close to ,it. Such a wound leaves no dead wood, and before the end of the season will be nearly or quite covered by new bark. Planting Fruit Trees.— Holes should be dug deep enough to allow of the trees being planted about the same depth they were planted in the nursery, and wide enough to allow all the- roots Ho be spread out. The centre of the holes should be raised a bit; this is best done by throwing in a spadeful or two of surface soil, which, will be sweet, so the holes must be dug deep enough to allow of it being done. When a tree stands in a hole thus formed, the roots point slightly downward, which is the purpose of the mound in the centre i the downward slant is still further increased by treading soil firmly down, particularly over the outer parts of the roots. When filling back the soil it is best to discard that. which came out of the holes, using instead some of the sweeter surface soiL Strawberriea.-r-Though an advocate of autumn planting of most things, I am strongly opposed to it with regard to strawberries, holding that it is better to keep them off their permanent quarters till the time comes when they will make growth. This gives opportunity to work the soil well right up to tie time of planting, so the plants get the j advantage of a clean and sweet soil to start in. I consider now an ideal time to plant, and if the plants have "been prepared as advised several mouths' back, 'and the ground fairly manured, A good crop may bef expected. If th«" soil is inclined to stiffness, care must be taken not to get it trodden on. much, unless some protecting material, suph as long strawy manure, is laid on between the rows ; but when the soil is light, sandy, or full of vegetable matter, it is probably an advantage to tre»d the surface firm. If the plants are lifted with a ball of earth filled with ropts, all that is needed is to dig a holo large enough to admit the ball of earth, fill up with sweGt surface soil, and press firmly. If the plants have not a ball of earth attached, but simply 'a bunch of roots, a little more care will be necessary. The roots should not be thrust anyhow into a hole dug with a trowel or in any such manner, but a wide, shallow hole should be scooped out,' so that the roots may !be spread out/evenly all round ; cover | the roots with sweet soil, and press down firmly, then draw more soil around to fill up level, and leave the surface loose. Apple and pear trees affected by scab may now be sprayed withsßordeaux mixture of tjie "10.10.40" formulae. Gooseberries and currants are by now opening their leaves ; if not sprayed, treat them now with "4.4.50" formulae. Even if they have been sprayed once it will be advisable to do it again.