FASHION NOTES.

Evening Post, Volume L, Issue 114, 9 November 1895, Page 1 (Supplement)

FASHION NOTES.

A Bicycle Costume — The requirements of the woman who enjoys the outdoor sports of the day, particularly bicycling, have been well considered in the planning of this toilette (says a correspondent in a Home paper), which is made of dark brown serge, and finished with machine-stitching. The Norfolk basque has a deep, pointed yoke and plaits laid on. It extends well below the hips, an,d is trimmingly fitted by double bust darts and the usual seams. The closing is made at the centre of the front with button-holes and buttons. The fronts are reversed above the bust to form pointed lapels that meet the rolling collar in notches, and between the lapels is revealed a stylish linen chemisette and four-in-hand scarf, the chemisette being made with a Piccadilly collar. The yoke is stitched along the lower edge, and below it is a plait stitched upon each front. Three similar plaits are applied on the back, and all the plaits are narrowest' at the waist-line to give a tapering effect to the figure. The one-seam leg-of-mutton sleeves are amply full at the top and comfortably close on the forearm. A cuff is outlined with a row of maohise-stitching, and two buttons are placed at the back of the wrist. A tan leather belt with fancy buckle is fastened in front. The circular skirt is skilfully shaped to fit the form snugly all round at the top and to fall in ample, flute-like folds that insure both freedom and grace. The bias back edges of the skirt are joiued in a centre seam all the way to the top, and a placket opening is finished at each side of the front. The top of the skirt is sewed smoothly to a band between the plackets, and to a belt the rest of the way ; and the lower edge is finished with a hem-facing machine- stitched to position. Tights will usually be worn with the skirt. Leggings matching the skirt are worn, and are shaped to fit perfectly over the shoe, about the ankle, and at the calf of the leg by a well- curved sewn at the centre of the front and back. A leather strap passes under the foot in front of the hjel, and is fastened to the outside with a buckle. The leggings are closed with small flat buttons and button-holes. The newest 'cycling suits are of Pluette, tweed, mixtures of coarse serge, and frequently a stylish decoration of leather is added, with good effect. Leather bands may outline the yoke and wrists and adorn the lower edge of the skirt, and a pretty touch of colour may be given by the chemisette, which may be of pure white, or of a delicate shade of blue, pink, or rnse. The sailor hat is banded with velvet ribbon, and has upright loops at the left side. Just now it would be hard to say which is most in favour, Valenciennes laces or batiste embroideries. Both ure extensively used, but the lace, being bo much narrower than the embroidery, is applied to gowus in a greater variety of ways and, yard for yard, in far greater profusion. Clever modistes have been quick to take advantage of the decorative possibilities of these two materials. The vastly popular grass linen, among other fabrics, takes kindly to the narrow laces, which very nearly match it in hue. Several different disposals of the lace upon a single gown are deemed correct. This idea, at once original and effective, is illustrated in a gown of plain grass linen made over green taffeta, satin ribbon to match also entering into the decoration. At .the bottom of the four-gored skirt, which is made with gathers at the back above godets, two frills of the lace are joined edge to edge, a simple arrangement that is highly approved at present. The bodice has plaits arranged at the back, and between them are two rows of insertion in the form of a long V. In front there is a square yoke covered with four downwardturniug folds of the goods, each fold beiug followed by a frill of lace edging. Below the yoke falls a blouse, which is striped with soveu rows of insertion. A stock of ribbon covers the standing collar, and at the back is formed a great bow of it. Tho effect is duplicated at the wai.-it-line. A pretty fancy i« expressed in the sleeves, which droop in puffs over euffy «t the elbows. The cuffs are overlaid with folds and edged with lace to correspond with the yoke, and numerous rows of insertion are let into the sleeves diagonally. If desired, tho insertion could be arranged vertically on tho sleevo puffs, or numerous vertical frills could bo used upon them iustead of insertion. Once more we are eschewing classical lines for bulging sleeves and skirts, which make caricatures of lovoly women, and drive plain ones to despair. The bubdued and delicate tin's which a few seasons since were regarded with favour, have been superseded by garish shades and brightest colours, which seem to quarrel with everything in Nature and Art. Unfortunately, we English are prone to extremes, and possess the imitative rather than the creative faculty. Consequently, our national costume is never distinctive, but a combination of some of the worst styles of our Continental neighbours, who would scorn to garb themselves with so little regard for fitness, beauty, md the cmons of good taste.