AFTERNOON TEA IN FRANCE.

Dunstan Times, Issue 3379, 20 June 1927, Page 8

AFTERNOON TEA IN FRANCE.

(By an Englishwoman in Paris.) In Paris, tea-houses have sprung up on all sides within the last few years, 'there is not a confectioner who does not supply tea of a sort. The British shops have always regular customers,but the smart people seek something more out of the common, and when they make up their mind to spend 20 francs for tins refreshment they like it in as elegant a milieu as possible. for the moment the, Russian teahouse is fashionable ground, and as there are three well-known establishments in the centre of’ the city the choice is made according to the one happening to ho nearest after the day’s shopping. A inendly invitation by a well-known Russian brought me in contact with a curious sidelight in this branch. Tea was served by tali, simply-dressed women, and to my surprise my companion kissed the Hand of the server. “You know,” he said, “that is Princess It ; over there, that pretty, sad-looking girl is the Countess JVI. ,T. We are now used to this state of things, and—you see —tUese wouderiul women accept it most pfulosopnically. i, mysell,” lie continued, “felt .Russia with one shirt, all 1 was allowed to take away i But, enougii about that I Will you have toasted brioche or caviare ?”

Another day 1 visited the celebrated house in the Rue dc Berri —iieram Boyard it is called —and 1, in my ignorance, imagined that this was the name of the proprietor. Tier am, I learnt, however, was Russian lor a feudal castle. But here the scene was bright and picturesque; from ceding to iioor the wails were dung wild marvellously bright-painted cloths that had Hie appearance of stained glass in a cathedral. 1 was particularly attracted by the music and the musicians, lour sturdy young follows, in national dress, playing the balalaika, and beluud, an antique instrument —luiidlmg the role oi a \ loloncello —the first instrument manufactured, called the domra. One of the attractions was the singing ul a one-legged man with a wonaerfui baritone voice, well trained, a handsome man with a beard. Tie had studied lor th© operatic stage; and then came the war; and the poor fellow returned, without a leg, to sing in Russian teahouses and smdo and pretend he was nappy. Russians at every table, and Americans. Not a French person to be seen; and only one Englisli visitor, myself. Americans flock here. They come to meet each other, smartly dressed, chatting with people right and left. They are at home.

Ears, rare china,, toys, everything .Russian is to be obtained at the entrance. Tea is served on tile first door; and tbe darn-green cups and saucers are a joy in themselves, without mentioning the rare quality of the bever-

ages. . .. At th'p door, ou the pavement, is a Russian who calls your car or gets you a.“taxi.” Strange as it may seem, there are more Russian taxi-drivers here today than breach. But is this surprising when one remembers that there are ■Ib,UUU Russians in Runs, and that the easiest of berths is the chauffeur's, as so many have driven their own cars in their own country ?

The majority are recognised by the fur collar upon their,coat; fur that had seen better days was around the neck of my driver to-day. But these men are nearly all gentlemen, engineers mostly. They know every smart restaurant and all the fashionable streets.

Thu tea-house in the Rue Washington lias another attraction. On each of the small tables —where, by the way, it is essential to engage one (hours xn advance) it you wish to be served —there are comical dolls, two or three together, elegant and- otherwise; cats and animals ol ail descriptions that the Rjxssiaus make and bring to the establishment to sell.. Sometimes as much as IUU francs is given for the right to carry away one of these specialities.