"INFIDEL SMYRNA."

Dunstan Times, Issue 3143, 13 November 1922, Page 7

"INFIDEL SMYRNA."

(By a Former Resident.) "Giaour Tzmeer" —Infidel Smyrna—the Turks call it, and the epithet is justified from their point of view. The Turkish element is so small in the populous city that one may live a twelve month in it and overlook the fact that it is in. Turkey. For the Turks are not only a negligible quantity numerically, but in their participation—-or lack of it —in the life of the place. They count for nothing commercially, and the Yali in his konak might be the man in the moon for aught he has to do apparently with Smyrna. This writer, after some six months' residence, was reminded by ait Armenian teacher, anxious to give him lessons in Turkish, that it was the language of the country. The reminder was not superfluous, for he had never heard it spoken in the streets. The newcomer has to learn Greek, and he must know French if he would do business or hold social intercourse w!ifh. Smymiotes. French has long been the medium of communication between the divers Kuropean nationalities constituting what is called the Frank community. In offices and shops of any pretension its employ is universal, not only among Franks, but. also native Christians and Israelites. In social functions it is de rigueur. Hut it is restricted, to certain classes and; uses. The language of Smyrna is ({reck, as it has always been ever since it had its beginnings as an (Folic colony in 1100 H.C. Neither the Lydian Kings nor Mithridatcs succeeded in displacing it. and when the land fell under Roman rule the conqiierers abandoned Latin, and Greek, a polite accomplishment only in Koine, became the tongue of Greco-Roman civilisation. So to-day the Franks, who address the stranger in French or English, converse among themselves ; :i what is really their mother tongue. Children of different nationalities invariably use it in addressing each other, and even children of the same family, though adjured by their parents to speak in their national idiom, when left to do as they like fall back into the irrespre?sil>le Greek.

The city itself, m its outward appearance, is "infidel." Minarets aro few and insignificant, belfries aro conspicuous, and the foreign Consulates loom large. Smyrna may be divided topographically into the level abutting on the seai and l the slope of the hill—called Mount Pagus—which dominates it. The level, much the larger area, is inhabited by the Christians, the slope by the Turks and Jews, though the latter overHow on to the level. The Greeks and Franks inhabit the quarter nearest the sea., the Armenians are further inland, and the Turks dwell on the highest position of the slope, beneath the ruined castle, which' dates from the Middle Ages. There is nothing characteristically Oriental about Smyrna —not even tin; bazaars. The outstanding feature of the city is its fine quay, lined by hotels, cafes, clubs, and the private residences of the well-to-do citizens. Hero the Smyrniotes gather of an afternoon to enjoy the refreshing imbat, the seabreeze which sets in regularly about two o'clock, and ruffles the brilliant emerald waters of the gulf into dancing wavelets. This post-prandial function, partly a necessity of the climate and partly the heritage of habit, is a survival of the days when there was no quay and each cafe had a ramshackle jetty projecting into the sea. In those days the nargileh (water-pipe) was the invariable accompaniment of this hour of repose. The nargilehs of Smyrna were famous for their splendid amber mouthpieces; but the übiquitous cigarette has largely displaced them. Among the Franks the British enjoy most consideration, not for their wealth only, but for their long standing. Some of the families date from the time of the Old Levant Company. Their founders were the Turkey merchants, a designation we may sometimes come across on mural tablets in our churches at home. Sonic of the old names in Smyrna have disappeared, but others remain that have been known and respected by generations of Smyrniotes— among them those Abbott. Wherry, Whittall, Maltass, to name only a few. The British were not the first-comers, however. They were preceded by the Dutch. Of these very few remain. To Do .Toughs and the Vim Lenneps are distinguished families, who may lay claim, perhaps, to priority. They no longer speak Dutch, but are English in speech and sentiment. The English, for the most part, do not live in Smyrna itself, but in neighboring villages. Of these Bujah was formerly known as the English villago on account of the number of British families residing there. Another favored resort is Burnabat, near the head of the gulf, a lovely spot embowered in trees, studded with charming country houses. Time was when some of the Smyrniote English did not speak their national tongue. The writer remembers one instance, many years ago. of an old lady, bearing an honored English name, who was perfect in French, and spoke Greek as her mother-tongue, but knew no English. It would be bard, if not impossible, to find her like now. Increased facilities of communication with the mother-land, and the more general practice of sending boys to English public schools and universities, have brought about changed conditions. But the Smyrniote English have not lost their love for Smyrna, and fulfil their local proverb, "He who drinks of the water of the Meles always returns." ' There is much to attach them to the land of their birth. Whoever has sojourned in their delightful homes and enjoyed their charming hospitality v/ill understand that. Smyrna is a land of good cheer, of excellent sport, and of rare beauty in its exquisite setting of mountain and forest and emerald waters--the Gulf is not blue. Even brigandage lends a. romantic charm to existence there. YVIio has not heard stories of • Kfuitfo'ji Yaniii and Oliiekcrjee, those) Robin Hoods of Anatolia, when under the roof-tree of Smyrna friends Isul the British of Smyrna, in the hearts, are English of the English, and yield to none of us, born within the Empire, in loyalty and devotion.