LIFE IN MUNICH.

Dunstan Times, Issue 3133, 4 September 1922, Page 7

LIFE IN MUNICH.

(By an Observer.) On entering Munich the first impression is one of marked hostility, of sullen resentment, towards any stranger. Bav&riai is just what one would have imagined a post-war Germany to l>e like. And this feeling, ever in the ascendant, increases with the duration of one's visit. By a thousand different ways and means it is intimated to the visitor that he is not wanted. The shortage of food and the high price and •scarcity of commodities are attributed principally to the export of Bavarian cattle to France and to the influx of foreigners, who are held mainly responsible for the vast consumption at the hotels, which, by purchasing large quantities of food for their clientele, spoil the market for the inhabitants ot the town. This seems in amazing Contradiction to the prevailing idea that Bavaria, being essentially an agricultural country, is more proseprous than other parte of Germany. Yet, in a sense, both statements are correct. Taken as a whole, the country is in a better condition than its neighbors. Munich streets, for instance, are cleaner and better kept than those of Berlin; but there is also less traffic, few. very few motors, less movement, less life'. The ancient city'wears an air of reposeful dignity. It breathes an atmosphere of aristocratic hauteur and conservative aloofness, strangely different from the now democratic, plebeian Berlin. The tall, erect buildings' of elegant Parisian grace seem to dream of a bygone era. Do they vision their "grandeur decline," or dream they 'of splendor yet to come? One wonders! There is a sense of emptiness, of expectant waiting. But, all said, the artistic, beautiful town of Munich to-day has something provincial. . In spite of her expensive shops, laden with rich wares and luxurious articles, of her first, class opera, her innumerable theatres—despite all the appanage of a. great town, there is little animation. For the moment evolution seems arrested, motion suspended. Or is she merely awaiting a sign to spring once more into being—the loosening of some mys<teriousi signal which is to change everything, converting stagnating existence into hectic life, into the vortex of emotions, the whirlpool: of interchanged and changing destinies? Who knows? Many play the waiting game, biding their time. The opportunity does' not come. The hour goes by; the penclir him swings; hut the clock forgets to strike, and the sands run out in peaceful monotonv. That is the position today.

Bavaria is intensely monarchical. All tho princes of the Royal house of Bavaria live in the country, in the neighborhood of Munich, if not actually in Munich itself, which is the centre of all aristocratic gatherings and Royalist intrigues, no less a personality than Prince Rupprecht himself being a frequent visitor. It is not unusual to see him inarch through the town in uniform. Veterans of the old army inspect their few remaining men. haranguing them on the glories of militarism. Although not as a militaristic as the old Prussia, Bavaria takes a pride in glittering uniforms, in tho scintillation of medals, as these represent all that which stands for regal splendour and conservative tradition. Regimental dinners take place regularly, these feasts being given by exsoldiers and generals, and attended by Prince Rupprecht "en personne." All appear in full-dress mess kit. In spite of these facts, the Royal House of Bavaria reveals somewhat democratic tendencies. The great entrance door of Prince Ludwig Ferdinand's palace on the Wittlesbach Plat/, bears a. brass plate, with the following bold inscription in printed letters: — "Prince Ludwig Ferdinand, ladies' doctor, consulting hours, 11 to 1."

And, from all accounts, he stands at the top of his profession as a physician of great ability. But in this he is, perhaps, not creating a precedent. Was not once a king an expert locksmith? As in other parts of Germany, members of the old regime are extremely hard hit. People with fixed incomes, or in receipt of small pensions, such as those allotted to ex-officers, retired generals, and their widows, are threatened with dire poverty. Landowners with country estates, as elsewhere, have retired gracefully, to live in peaceful seclusion and dream of the past. One and all, the Bavarian nobility staiid together, sternly disapproving of present conditions, and taking no part in actualities. They look on Berlin and its society—the Prussian aristocracy—with ill-disguised contempt, and view with intolerance the more or less cosmopolitan, and international life of the German capital. For them there is no intermingling with foreigners. Their doors arc rigidly closed to members of the Entente or representatives of Allied and foreign missions. Munich society, ever small and restricted, is to-day more select audi exclusive still. There are a few entertainments among this little clique, but their -..hospitality is necessarily of a frugal kind, owing to the depleted purses of the hostesses. Too proud to reveal their straitened circumstances, they endeavor to conceal the reality under a cloak of haughty indifference, "he grand nionde ne s'aniuse pas"— very much. Lavish gaiety is left to the prosperous "Schieber." or "Industrie!," who has money enough to fritter away on pleasure.

One of the chief and arresting personalities in the neighborhood of Munich is the great Ludendorff. He is the centre of gravity, the pivot of attraction, the focus which, draws unto itself the rays of the rising and wetting sun. Round him all the martial elements of the nation congregate; also foreigners of every description. Some conic to seek his advice, somcout of curiosity, others with more concrete matters to talk about. At his instigation there are many schemes afloat. His plan is to form an 'international army to march into Russia — France and; Germany to supply the men ; Great Britain the guits, funds and equipment; Ludendorff at the head of this' army—which is to remain in Russia till peace he restored, order established, Bolshevism, crushed, and the vast untold wealth of the country developed. The Bavarians dislike the North l German almost as much as the* foreigner. But in spite of this feeling they will never entertain the. thought of an understanding with France and a separation from the rest of Germany. Although not in sympathy with other parts of file Reich, they feci at one with the groaf German Fatherland 1 members of the same Teutonic brotherhood. In the depths of their hearts they are animated by patriotism and l love of their „<:oiintry as a whole. Nor doe- then- dislike of Prussia, prevent a fervent desire to be governed by her. for they admire her qualities of solidity and methodical order too much to wish to lie ruled by any other Power or nation. The following will serve as an example of hotel honesty. An American, who had paid 800 marks for a room at the Bayerische Hof, was, to his amazement, on returning a. week later, charged 2.000 marks for the same accommodation. A party of English people, who bought opera tickets —stall's at 130 marks each) —were surprised to find

the same tickets advertised a. few days later on the playbill at 400 marks. After they had requested the porter to reserve two for them, the next day they were informed that there had been a mistake; the price was 800 marks. And it was so, for, in the meantime, a new playbill had been substituted for the other one. The tickets were returned, and the porter admonished; but. on one of the party remarking that prices were somewhat excessive, the man suavely replied: "How are Ave to pay our reparations if we don't charge you English people a lot for everything?" That is the spirit which we have not encountered in other parts of Germany. At least. their hatred is better concealed. Munich affords plenty of distraction for the pleasure-seeker. For lovers of sport there are continual race meetings, lawn tennis, and football, the last being as great a. favorite with the Bavarians as with the Czechs. As in Berlin, there are innumerable "cabarets" and variety entertainments. But all these close at midnight, being obliged to conform to strict police regulations. Unlike Prague and Berlin, in Munich amusements cannot be prolonged until the small hours of the morning. The Munich opera stands next in excellence to that of Vienna. Wagner and all the favorite classics are given, together with the works of less known composers. There are also numerous operettas of the light Viennese school. When travelling one cannot help making comparisons. The State of Bavaria suffers, like other parts of Germany, from the superabundance of officials, but, as it has a smaller army to maintain than Prussia, the individual is less taxed. Yet one has the impression that here is a conquered country. Here is an atmosphere, of vindictive despair, of aggressive resentfulness towards the conquerors; and, perhaps, subconsciously, the feeling that each individual is nursing secret thoughts of revenge. Havana and its people present a sharp contrast with the prosperous, optimistic, and successful Czecho-Slovakia. In the latter country are optimism a net increasing confidence in the present and the future. It is the difference between light and darkness! But of glittering carriages, replendent uniforms, and all the dignifieS insignia, the pomp and splendour of Court—of these, Munich, asleep in the spring sunlight, dreams. Will she awaken to sad realities or to find! her dream come true?