THE LADIES.

Daily Telegraph (Napier), Issue 4282, 18 April 1885, Page 1 (Supplement)

THE LADIES.

LADIES' GOSSIP,

Lucy Hooper thus describes in tho Philadelphia Telegraph tho wedding trousseau of Miss Mackay, now Princess Culonna : Miss Mackay's trousseau is very extensive and superb, but her dresses arc inoro remarkable for eleganco of material and for grace and originality of design than fov showiness and gorgeousness. The weddingdress is a heavy ivory-whilo satin, tho train bordered with a band of , embroidery in white sjlk worked on the material itself, and representing orange blossoms with ] their buds and foliage. Tho front of tbo skirt is bordered with a fringe of orungcbuds, and is caught up ; at one side with a spray of orange blossoms.' Tho corsago is I high to the throat, and is embroidered down the front with a band of orange blossoms. A small cluster of the same bridal flowers closes tho corsage instead of a brooch. The tulle veil will be confined with a small din--1 dem wreath of orange blossoms. The simj plicity of the toilet will be unbroken by a jewel of any kind. For the oivilmarriago which Hakes place at the Mayor's office, a

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dress has been prepared of deep bluegrey faille, with vest and skirt front of passementerie to match, in silk and beads. The dress for the presentation at the Court of Italy is in point aiguille lace of exquisite.fineness and artistic design. The underskirt is covered with draperies of-this"superb lace, and flounces of it; are set upon the long court train. The corsage has a plaited vest of point lace, and ruffles of lace form''tho sleeves. And her court dress is in white faille, the skirt front embroidered with masses of daisies in white silk, with centres of looking-glass beads. The long train of the same material is bordered with a band of embroidery to correspond. A third court dress is in pale blue faille, -with the skirt front embroidered with daisies in pale blue chenille, with a slight mixture of wool color in the stems and foliage. The corsage is bordered with daisies, and a corsage of daisies is arranged to encircle the young wearer's throat. Ihe daisy being the name-flower of Q.ueen Marguerite of Italy, itia the favorite blossoms for adorning tho court drosses of the ladies who are present at. hor balls and receptions. An exquisite dinner dress is in Walteau brocade in narrow stripes of pale pink and white, figured with tiny flowers in their natural lines. This dress is made in the genuine Louis XVI style, the overskirt born ? looped with pale pink ribbons and the underskirt being covered with rufllcs of finest Valenciennes. Another dinner dress is in scarlet velvet, the skirt laid in box-plaits and having a short detached train. -The corsage is bordered around tho top with antique Venetian guipure of .wonderful beauty. A very handsome visiting dress is in seal-brown faille, with a vest and skirt front of velvet of the same hue, embroidered in seal-brown silk with clusters of filberts with their leaves and foliago. Another wns in steelgrov faille, with the velvet vest and skirt front embroidered with {lowers and leaves in steel-grey silk. Most of the evening dresses were in delicate shades of chine or in sicilienne. One, in crevet crepe de chine, was mado in the Restoration style, with a round, plaited baby-waist, short plaited underskirt, and draped overskirt. Another, in the same material but in ivorywhite, had the overskirt dotted all over with largo pearl beads, the underskirt being cut in front into deep scallops, which were outlined with pearls. The train was square and was laid in (hit folds. These aro but a tithe of the various tasteful and dainty toilets prepared for the young bride. The morning dresses wei-o in themselves a study, chaudron or plush trimmed with point lace, crimson plush, pearl and tea-rose pekin trimmed with grey cashmere and scarlet surah, and white cashmere trimmed with blue or olive velvet, were among the materials employed. The under-gai-mcnts, in finest cambric, adorned with hand-embroid-ery and the most exquisite of Valenciennes lace, are really artistic in their workmanship. Some articles were bordered with medallions of Valenciennes let into the material around the skirt as well as around the top; others had a narrow frill of Valenciennes showing aboro a border of frost-like embroidery. This division of the trousseau included not only under-garments of all descriptions, but also sheets and pillow-cases en sidle and covered with finest: hand-em-broidery, towels, table linen, etc., silk stockings and slippers to match every costume, a bonnet for each walking-dress, etc.

The wedding gift of Mr Mackay to his daughter is a set of diamonds comprising a long spray of fern leaves which can be worn in the hair or encircling the top of a corsage, a necklace formed of three rows of pointed loaves meeting a diamond band that surrounds the throat, a porte-bonheur bracelet of diamonds, a pair of solitaire earrings of great beauty, and a comb surmounted with a row of diamond leaves. Mrs Mackay's gift is a necklace and pair of bracelets in largo pearls, each of Rye strings, separated at intervals with diamond bars, and also a pair of largo and per-' feet rubies sot as earrings and surmounted with diamonds.

A description of some evening dresses may prove interesting. One of tlic most delicate and beautiful of theso is a trained princess dress of pale blue satin damask, tho petticoat made of plain .white satin, wholly veiled with pearl-beaded lace rufllos of the most exquisite design, The bodice is cut square, with a Medici,collar, covered with pearl-bead embroidery, and the short sleeves correspond. A second toilet is of amber satin, the entire front draped with ruffles of Turkish gauze, exquisitely embroidered in rich Oriental colors. A charming dress to be worn; by a-debutante of 'this season is made of heavy-white corded silk, with-ii scarf drapery of India" silk gauze, handembroidered, with while silk flowers outlined with pcurl beads. For another debutante is completed a .toilet of pink China crape, garnished with white ostrichfeather 'trimming and- plaitings of rose point lace.' . Tin's .-dress is trained over a princess slip of plain silk of a deeper tint;-. A costume of white beaded tullo, trimmed rery elaborately .with point gauze laco, and worn over a pi-inecsse slip of white isiiiuh, is exceedingly effective. The artist in arrangement of the drapery of this dress is one of its chief attractions. Long sprays of trailing vines mingled with deep ci iiiison and pale pink roses hold, tho airy folds in■: place and garnish the bodice. An uncommonly elegant toilet for a stalely brunette matron, possessing a brilliant complexion, 1 is an important one, the priceless fabric being a. tea-roso satin, with raised designs in arabesques upon its lustrous surface of pale lilac velvet. Ko superfluous skirt trimming, mars-, the beauty of this dress, which is made with court train falling in superb unbroken lines. A bertha of point laco—with sleeve ruffles at tho elbow to match—softens the outlines of the heart-shaped opening of tiie bodice. A short dress of pale blue Ottoman silk combined with Lyons velvet of a rich golden brown shade is gent from an English house, and a rare and costly toilet for the wife of a merchant prince is made of white Ture satin brocade with small raised flowers of embossed gold. The court train is lined with pale gold satin and raised on each side with diamond buckles over a petticoat of lace. The necklace and hair ornamen'.s are to be of diamond and pearls.—N.'Y. Post.