IMPASSABLE GLACIER FOILS CLIMBERS

Dominion, Volume 29, Issue 93, 14 January 1936, Page 11

IMPASSABLE GLACIER FOILS CLIMBERS

Whymper Saddle Venture

NIGHT SPENT AT HEIGH' OF 7500 FEET

Dominion Special Service.

Christchurch, January 13.

A party of Christchurch climbers, Messrs. D. V. Appleby and R. Burgess, of the Canterbury Mountaineering Club, and B. W. Collins, of the Canterbury University College Tramping Club, recently made what is believed to be tiie first exploration of the Whymper Saddle, which leads from the head of the Murchison Glacier to the beadwaters of the Wataroa River, Westland. Tiie impassability of the unmapped glacier which they found on the Westland side of the saddle prevented the party making an attempt to descend the Wataroa River. The main branch of the Wataroa River, which is the third largest river in Westland, has been very little explored. The only complete descent of the river was made in 1597, when Messrs. Malcolm Ross and T. C. Fyfe crossed the Tendeufeld Saddle at the head of the Tasman Glacier, to the Whymper Glacier, and followed the river to the township of Wataroa on the West Coast road. Since then the only visitors have been gold prospectors, who have ascended some 15 or 20 miles from the Westland side. An Unmapped Glacier. Travelling by car from Christchurch to Lake Tekapo, tiie party walked up the Godley River to the terminal face of the Godley Glacier. They ascended the Classiu Glacier, a tributary of the Godley, and camped on morainecovered ice near the foot of the Classin Saddle under Mount Mannering, On New Year’s Day they crossed the Classiu Saddle, a pass leading into the Murchison Glacier, and bivouacked in some rocks in the snowfields at the head of this glacier at a height of about 6000 feet. On Friday, January 3, a preliminary ascent of tiie pass was made without packs to reconnoitre the route. .The neve of tiie Murchison Glacier was crossed toward the foot of the Tasman Saddle, and then the Whymper Saddle, a col between Graceful and Broderick Peaks, was ascended. Near tiie summit several huge schrunds were fortunately able to be crossed by snow bridges, and with the aid of crampons on the hard snow the top of the saddle was reached at 10 o’clock. From here an unmapped glacier was discovered leading into the terminal moraine of the Whymper Glacier. This was very steep and heavily crevassed, but it was decided to attempt a descent on the following day. The valley of the Wataroa River was partially obscured by mist, but some excellent photographs were taken of peaks and glaciers hitherto very little known and unphotographed.

Night Spent at 7500 Feet.

Next, day the party left the Murchison bivouac at dawn, ascended the saddle by steps made ou the previous day, and began Ute descent. The steepness of the snow, although it was frozen hard, necessitated a detour on to the rocks at the side of the saddle. These were very steep, smooth slabs with very few foot and hand-holds. In one place the party’s packs had to be lowered nearly 100 feet on the rope before a safe descent, could be made. About 200 feet below the summit of the pass a huge schrund crossed the glacier from side to .side, and it was impossible either to cross it or get past on the smooth rock faces. It was decided to return, but the sun had so softened the few inches of snow covering the ice that it was thought wiser not to attempt to regain tiie saddle in the treacherous conditions. The rest of the day and the following night were spent in a gap between the ice wall of the glacier and the cliffs at a height of about 7500 feet. Early next morning while the snow w-as still frozen the saddle was again ascended and the descent made to the Murchison Glacier. The party returned by way of the Tasman .Glacier and the Mount Cook Hermitage.