KING OF COOKS

Dominion, Volume 28, Issue 169, 13 April 1935, Page 18

KING OF COOKS

M. Escoffler Passes

Chef of kings and king of chefs. Auguste Escoftler, who invented the peclie Melba, as a tribute to the famous prima donna, has died at his villa in Monte Carlo at the age of SS. One of his greatest triumphs was his success in introducing frogs’ legs to English menus. In a reminiscent mood, Escoftler once declared that King Edward VII. was the only Englishman lie ever knew who professedly liked frogs’ legs “I bad a great deal of trouble in making this disin, acceptable in England.” the famous chef continued. “So. when I was chef at the Savoy, I decided to fight the good fight for the frog, and show the English public that the flesh of this little creature is better than chicken when you come to know it. “Af a big dinner with covers for 700 I presented a new dish which I called ‘nymphe a la rose.' Served with paprika .sauce it was exquisite, and everyone liked it so much Hint it be-1 came a regular feature of the menu and one of the most popular dishes. “Nobody ever asked what it was made of, but one day when a select party of four ordered dinner, including ’nymphe a la rose.’ one woman exclaimed. ‘This is frog!’ “The secret was out, but no tragedy followed. London society had already acquired a taste for ‘nymphe a la. rose 1” The "Emperor of Chefs.” as the Kaiser once called him. learned his cooking as a boy at Nice, and came to London in 1894 to preside over the |

kitchens of the newly-opened Savoy, where he produced a number of astonishing dishes which made him one of the outstanding figures of that dazzling decade. After spending several years at the Savoy, he was chef successively at the Ritz and the Carlton. When he was receiving £2OOO a year at the Carlton, he refused a Court appointment. Escoffler was fond of telling of an encounter with the Kaiser shortly before the war. After a banquet which he had prepared, the Kaiser sent for him to congratulate him. “How can I repay you?” the Emperor asked. “By giving us back Alsace-Lor-raine.” the great chef replied. Escoffler never cooked for the Kaiser again. Describing how he came to create peghe Melba. Escoffler explained that while Melba was singing in Paris she gave him two tickets for the opera. Next day, in homage to the great artist, he served up for her a swan in ice, surrounded by luscious peaches and vanilla and strawberry cream. The dish did not really acquire fame until some years later. In 192$ Escoffler was made an officer of the Legion of Honour—the first man to gain this distinction for culinary merit. Yet it is said that this master chef, who bad carried the renown of French cooking to England, the United States. Canada. Russia, and Brazil, always declared that no food he cooked tasted half as good as that served up to him by his wife in their own home.