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GARDEIN NOTES

(By

“Kowhai.”)

ANNUALS TO BE PLANTED NOWDuring late summer and early auluinn our gardens would not be very bright were it not for annuals. All the lovely perennials of early summer, aquilegias, delphiniums, perennial poppies, lupins, campanulas, bearded irises,, early gladioli etc., are over. Heleniums, perennial phlox, Michaelmas daisies, perennial sunflowers, and chrysanthemums do not flower until later. There are, among perennial things, roses, hydrangeas, and dahlias, and so, in order to keep up the mass of colour that one loves to have all through the summer and early autumn months, annuals are packed into every available space. Asters, zinnias, French and African, marigolds, antirrhinums, stocks, salpiglossis, annual gaillardias, petunias, verbenas, nemesias, cosmos, calliopsis, ageratum, and many other .lovely annuals are being planted out just now. For those who do not raise their own seedlings, there are boxes and boxes of sturdy ones being displayed by seed merchants, seedlings to suit every soil and every situation. These seedlings that one buys are often more difficult to transplant than those raised out of doors in one’s own garden. They have, during their short life, had every care and advantage. Raised in a warm frame or greenhouse, given every advantage in the way of soil, careful watering, pricking out, etc., they have lived a sheltered, well-guarded life. There has been no struggle for existence, as iii the case of the outdoor seedling, to harden them and fit them for the battle of life in a flower bed. And so, when they are suddenly taken, from their comfortable seed-box, carried home in a paper parcel, and planted in strange soil where they are more often than not left to the mercy of wind and sun, they do not progress as satisfactorily as they are expected to.* One or two simple attentions at the time of planting make all the difference to the future of these tender little things. One is that they should be moved with as much soil as possible so that the tiny roots need not be disturbed. Another very important thing is that they should be watered in. If gardeners would only “water in” their seedlings, even if the soil is damp at planting time, the plants would be given a* good start. By “watering in” we mean pouring water into the hole with the plant so that the roots' become embedded in wet soil. This should be done with utmost care, especially where a ball of soil is attached to the roots. If the plant is held in place with one hand, water may be so poured from a can- without a rose as to wash more earth gently round the roots. As soon as the water has soaked in, the top soil may be firmly pressed into place. Plants stand far less chance of flagging when they aro planted out in this way. Tiic third important thing is that little twiggy sticks should be so placed round them as to hold them firm. It is Just when wo are planting out so many of these delicate, very brittle, little seedlings that we have gale after gale, and it is most distressing to see the plantlets blown this way and that, and often broken altogether. Little twiggy sticks placed round them at planting time are a great help to them, and. given a good Start, it is not long before they grow and hide the supporting sticks. The following are some ■ of. the most popular of. our- late-flowering annuals: — Phlox Drummondll. —Phlox loves a sunny situation, and well dug, well drained soil. When massed the plants make,a gorgeous display, and, if the flowers arc freely picked, the flowering season is a long one. Petunias.—Bedding petunias arc absolutelj' lovely nowadays, and very hardy. They love sheltered heat, and light 'rich soil. They are useful, for 'growing in a semi-shaded place, where they do well. Verbenas.—Verbenas, like phlox; make a gorgeous display, and the scent of the flowers in warm sunshine is glorious. Any well-dug soil suits them, and they revel in sunshine. They should never be allowed to become absolutely dry at the roots, lest mildew attack them. The. flowers of up-to-date strains are very large, and the colours gorgeous. ~ . Calliopsis.—For making a show over a long period, calliopsis is wonderful, and when the plants are massed in big groups the golden yellow and rich brown flowers so lightly set on slender branching stems make most pleasing plctures in tho garden. Any well dug soil and almost any situation suit this most hardy of annuals. Cosmos.—Cosmos Is generally sown in fine firm soil, and the seedlings are transplanted' afterwards to other parts of the garden. When the seedlings are ready for transplanting, mix up some good soil, well.decayed manure, and sand, and put some of the mixture in each hole. As soon as the, seedlings are a few Inches high, pinch the tops oil to make them bushy. Asters.—Asters should be grown in ground that was thoroughly trenched and manured early in the'year, Seeds may be sown now In the garden. Work a little bonedust into the soil-when the seedlings are being planted out. ' « French and African Marigolds.—Marigolds revel in a sunny position, but the soil should be deeply dug, and should have a good supply of well decayed vegetable rubbish worked into it. Zinnias.—Zinnias make a gorgeous, show in a sunny situation, but they must have well prepared and enriched, soil. The ground should be trenched, and should have plenty of well decayed rubbish buried in it. As soon as the seedlings begin to show signs of growth they may have a tiny pinch of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia sprinkled, round them, .but this must, not be overdone or sappy growth Will result. Just that one little, dose, and then no more stimulants until flower buds begin to form, when liquid manure may be given once a week. The best strain to grow is Lodger’s dahlia-flowered ope. Stocks.—Stocks should be grown in' well dug, rich ground. If possible, plenty of well decayed manure should be burled about six inches below the surface; The soil should bo kept well cultivated and growth of fibrous roots encouraged. Salpiglossis.—Seeds of salplglossis may be sown in the open now. The soil for the seedlings should be well dug,, light, and rich. Water is necessary during the flowering season.

VEGETABLES. ’• • • j ROUTINE WORK. A good fertiliser for root crops such as red beet, earrots, onions, ■ etc., is 3ozs. of superphosphate and loz. of sulphate of ammonia per square yard. Pick the flowers off shaUots and keep the bed well weeded. Give rhubarb liquid manure every two weeks, and remove any flowers that are formed. Onions for pickling may still,be sown; The soil should be rather poor and dry, for then the onions are small and firm. The seeds may be sown in drills or broadcast, and should be fairly thick. , Thinning out is not necessary. , Plant out where necessary Urussvls sprouts; savoys, cabbages, and eaulillowers. Puddle in the plants, and when' the water has soaked in. draw dry soil round them, and make them very firm. See that they do not suffer from drought afterwards. • The cabbage tribe can do with lot's of lime. Thin oi|t carrots, etc., as soon as the seedlings can be handled. Water the rows of seedlings an hour or two before thinning, and again when the work is finished. Clear away at once all seedlings that have been thinned oui, and also decaying cabbage leaves ilnd letttuecs. They harbour pests if left about. Celery may be . planted in prepared trenches. The trenches should be dug out to the depth of one foot, some well rotted manure should be dug Into the bottom, and about six inches of soil should be returned. Thoroughly mix a little bonedust with the soli that is returned to the trench. If the trenches are made only a short time before transplanting takes place, the soli should be made firm by being trampled upon, for celery does best -when grown in firm soil. Before transplanting the seedlings, add two inches of very fine soil gnd a slight dressing of soot or asfies from a rubbish fire. Plant the seedlings about six or eight Inches apart, shade-from the sun for a few days, and sprinkle the plants with water morning mid evening. As soon as growth has well started liquid manure should be supplied.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/DOM19291123.2.161

Bibliographic details

Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 51, 23 November 1929, Page 32

Word Count
1,403

GARDEIN NOTES Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 51, 23 November 1929, Page 32

GARDEIN NOTES Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 51, 23 November 1929, Page 32