THE LONDON FASHION PARADE

Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 45, 16 November 1929, Page 22

THE LONDON FASHION PARADE

TRAILING CLOUDS OF GLORY

(By

Nellie M. Scanlan.)

Dominion Special Service,

London, October 1. ; To-day is the first day of real autumn, and the first rain has fallen. This week ■we “put the clock back.” London is hurrying' 'home, or rather Mayfair _ is Opening its doors. To-day the fashions 'that have been tested and survived are . given to the world. “It’s Nijinska 1” And a lovely figure With a saintly face—well, not too saintly —glides down the crimson carpet, trailing, yes, literally trailing, clouds of glory : behind her. She flings the fur-trimmed cloak from her shoulders disdainfully, deep fur cuffs remain on her bare arms, and, behold, the cloak is a shimmering train, straining with its weight of fur. Elsewhere 1 “That’s Epstein’s model 1” is murmured, and the almost-Egyptian face that he loves'to coarsen and model peers from the. depths of a thousandguinea fur coat. ■ Revilles of Paris, London and New York! You are bidden to the feast, it is almost as difficult to cross this exclusive threshold as to enter Buckingham Palace.

’ A striped- awning over the entrance in Grosvenor Square, a gorgeous person in uniform to open the motor-car door, the long gallery with its rows of gilt chairs, the great bowls of autumn flowers. «' Poised for a moment against the curtains of, silver tissue, then slowly down the red carpet to elose proximity for Enal inspection, the mannequins come mimals Out of the ark, and the long■fcept secrets are out at last. Many of the models are pieced together, like crossword puzzles, to defy cheap imitation. There can be no other reason for such intricacy. s Black or white are the very smartest for evening -wear. The dead white is "worn against the sun-tanned skin .with titrange effect. Waists are definitely hack in the old place, but not pulled in, just the natural curve. . Some of the evening frocks showed the high waistlines of the Birst Empire.

■ Manj_ black evening dresses had shouldt straps and belt buckles of vivid ped green. ' Backs are still cut low, some the V’s opening even below the waistt, ethers were entirely backless. i Striking Innovations. ■; There were one or two striking inno- . Rations that could easily be applied. On nine black dress three huge scarlet flowers were placed at. the waistline at the back. On another the closely-fitted frock was moulded to the figure to below the waist fn front, then curving sharply at the back to the knees. Fjom this curved line it flared suddenly. A garland of large red flowers followed this curved line behind the knees. Two other dresses, also i black and made, on these lines, had ribbon Instead of flowers. The ribbon was rolled like a cable, following, the curve, and finished behind the knees in a large, bow. In ene the ribbon was ’sky blue, and dhe other the popular scarlet note recurred. One black net frock had a spray of white velvet flowers behind the knee, 'under the outer layer of net. ‘ There will be a great demand for belts and gay buckles of jewels and enamel. Blouses are ip, blousing over just like the old-fashioned type, and even blouses of jersey were to be seen. Veils have come back, pert little thing: that are bound at the edge like a stiff CUrtain, and no longer than the nose. Tin general trend in hats is the baby bonnet which frames the face. Often it shows :l

largo expanse of forehead, but with a sweeping curtain over the ears and neck. Hats are really more becoming and not so hard.

For evening .wear—theatre and dining out —tulle hats and caps, fitting closely, were shown, some having a tulle frill for a brim. These were worn with many smart evening frocks.

Dresses are longer, knees are out. and the return of the eyebrow is certain. Many of the mannikins wore their hair in a low bob. like a Salvation Army lass. Of colours, beside the übiquitous browns, bright red and dull green prevail. There was one new tone, “opium smoko.” It was a steely smoke blue, with a hint Of mauve, like something gone rotten. Glove Novelties. There were several novelties in evening gloves. With one black evening frock I saw gold kid. with large gauntlets, cut like petals. Another pair of long white kid were inset with jewelled embroidery. A black satin afternoon frock was worn with white kid gloves, and from the wrist to high above the elbow, where they ended in a point. ,was baby lamb fur. These pulled up over the tight-fitting sleeve. Most of the evening afternoon frocks had short coats of the same material, or a contrasting brocade, usually bordered all round with fur. The .present mode of dining, dancing, and playing bridge has developed this useful adjunct. Several lace frocks had little lace caps that mercifully covered the exposed spine of these lean ladies, for mannikins are kept as “fine” as racehorses. As the Duchess of Fourteenstone looks through her lorgnette at some entrancing model gown, she is apt 'to forget that she is in the “weight -for-age” class, and order one. Jewellery was massive; earrings nnd pendants and bracelets of Parisian paste a couple of inches wide. Of materials, ring velvet, taffeta sprayed with liquid gold, and coarse Cite fish net seemed important. One evening dress in green was like fine_ wire-netting made in bugle beads. Evening wraps, a cross between a coat and a cape, threequarters length, had huge fur collars, and brought in a note of colour —claret, magenta, purple, or royal blue. On most of the tweed coats the fur collar finished in a deep point between the shoulders. As I came away, two things stood out in my memory—bright belt buckles, and garlands and bows behind the knee. To make starch, use two tablespoonfuls starch, 3 tablespoonfuls cold water, f teaspoon powdered borax, i teaspoon turpentine, and a tiny piece of soap. Break up the starch in the cold water, add the other ingredients, and pour boiling water over them, stirring all the time till the starch is blue, and clear. For scalded hands, break several eggs and lay the unbeaten whites on cotton wool, then wrap the hands in it. Next morning there should be little sign left of the injury. When a man cuts himself in shaving, or a child ciits itself, apply ordinary pepper, and without any Sting the bleeding will stop. New arrivals to New Zealand will be ’alighted to hear that the famous NO IUBBING LAUNDRY HELP can be irocured from stores throughout the Dominion. Large packets Is.—Advt.