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GARDEN NOTES

(By

“Kowhai.”)

PRIMULINUS GLADIOLI. Although it is getting late to plant corms of gladioli, oue may still be sure of a good show of blooms by planting immediately. Both as cut flowers and as garden subjects the primulinus hybrids arc delightful, and in some ways they are preferable to the large-flowered gladioli. Their stems arc thin and wiry, and the flowers smaller and better spaced on the stems. This makes them much more graceful and easy to arrange in bowls or vases. In the garden, too, unless the situation is exposed, they do not need staking as do more massive varieties. Another advantage is that welldeveloped corms produce two or three flowering stems. So far the primulinus have not the rich colours of the largeflowered ones, but these must come in the future. They are still comparatively new, and hybridists hgve scarcely time to work ou them. There are many delightful colours among them, however, and when a bowl is‘filled with them their fresh daintiness and graceful habit make it a delightful picture. . ~ . Among varieties obtainable in New Zealand are: Alice Tiplady, clear orange saffron; Aurora, orauge yellow; Kenan Haselaar, light yellow; King of tho Yellows, pure yellow; Maiden's Blush, rose; Psyehe, orange red; Searletta, scarlet; Vanessa, salmon, orange; Gladioli, both large-flowered an'd primulinus, are among the hardiest and most easily grown of. garden flowers. Any well-dug soil suits them, and a sunny or a semi-shaded position. They should be planted two or three inches deep and about 4in. apart.

CARYOPTERIS MASTACANTHUS.

Caryopteris, often called the blue spiraea, is a charming little autumn-flow-ering shrub which grows into a spreading bush about three or four feet high. It likes a sunny position? and light.or weHdrained soil, and will' stand a fair amount of wind. It is a plant that needs hard cutting back every year. This keeps it in shape, and also keeps it to strong new flowering wood. Cuttings of shoots that have not flowered, planted in sandy soil, root very quickly. ' , Caryopteris is one of those useful little shrubs that may be used in many ways —at the front of a shrubbery, towards the back of a -mixed l flower border, in the rock garden, and in tubs. It grows happily with quite ordinary treatment, and is really attractive in the autumn when it is covered with its clusters of soft blue flowers.. Plants may still be put in. ROUTINE WORK. Slugs.—Slugs have turned their .attention to seedling annuals now that delpliiuium shoots have ceased to be tender and Phlox drummondii and Iceland poppies are prime favourites among annuals* and tender chrysanthemum shoots are fairly popular. Lime, soot, flower of sulphur, powdered alum, sharp cinders, are all used for sprinkling round plants that are likely to be but the only certain way of dealing with slugs is to catch and destroy them. Unfortunately this has to be done during the evening when they come from their hiding places to feast. I have actually seen them creeping up over a paling fence, not a stray one or two, but a small army, from a garden where they had plenty of cover during the day into a clean and weedless garden where young lettuces and often tender, crops were to be found. Half an hour in the evening with an electric torch and a sharp pair of scissors, even only twice a week, soon reduces their number, and one has the satisfaction of knowing that they are actually accounted for, land not merely driven into fresh feeding grounds. , A , Ixias—lxias are just opening their dainty flowers, and will be making gay patches in the garden for soma time. Where they are grown in clumps they, should bo lightly and loosely tied to short unobtrusive stakes. Water should be supplied to them, regularly, and. weak sootwater. Sweet Peas—Sweet peas need regular attention, for vines must be kept growing straight up their supports. The soil should be kept loose, and a sprinkling of lime may be worked in occasionally. Keep the leaves free from dust and wash the plants occasionally with w-eak permanganate of potash. Pinks.—Sweet-scented pinks are blooming gaily.. The plants make splendid harbours for' slugs and snails and should therefore be examined frequently'. A little lime sprlpkled under the mat-like . growth helps to keep the pests away. As soon as the flowers are over dead flower stalks should be dipped off and the plants trimmed into shape. Cuttings of young shoots may ba taken and planted in some out-of-the-way. place for the summer. Carnations.— Keep the quickly-growing shoots of carnations secured to stakes. As soon as buds form water the plants with weak soot-watcr. A little superphosphate may be worked' in round them. Watch the young tips for greenfly. Delphiniums.—Delphiniums are making strong, rapid growth, and ’ must be tied to stakes. Each clump should have several stakes, so that the flowering stems may be spread out a little. , Begonias. — Tuberous-rooted Begonias that have been started into growth may be planted out now in the open borders. The ideal position for them is a semi-shaded one. Before tho tubers are planted, the soil should be very deeply dug, and should have leaf mould, well-decayed manure, and sand worked into it. .sue Forget-me-nots.—Root out plants of annual -forget-me-nots, as soon as they are over. Fork over the* soil and work in a drossing of bonedust. These empty spaces may be filled with seedling annuals, such as phlox drummondii, nemesia, dwarf candvtuft, etc. Perennial forget-me-nots should have dead flowers clipped off, and should be cut back a little. Strong young shoots will soon appear, and some of these may be detached and used for cuttings. Dahlias—Dahlias should have strong shoots by this time. Slice off part of a tuber with each shoot, and plant in wellmanured ground. Anemones. —Anemone seed sown now will produce flowering plants for next spring. The seed should be sown thinly, and the seedlings- should be ready lor plantingout bv the end of February. Liliuins. —Lillums should now be given n mulch, preferably of cow manure, la 1ing manure, a little guano may be pricked in round the clumps, and a mulch ol decayed garden rubbish given. The stems should be tied to stakes as they grow.. Paeonies. —Paeonics are showing buds, and should be given weak liquid manure once a week. VEGETABLES. RUNNER BEANS. Runner beans arc valuable in the garden for they give quantities of pods over a long season, and are so ornamental that they can be used to cover fences or trellises even in the flower garden. The ground for them should be deeply dug, and the subsoil well treated with decayed manure. This encourages the plants to root deeply. Sprinkle a little bonedust in the soil when sowing the seeds, and have them from four io six inches apart and about two incites deep. As soon as the seedlings are well up sprinkle a little superphosphate along the rows. WINTER GREENS. Seeds of winter greens—-cabbages, savoys, Brussels sprouts, and also broccoli—may be sown this month. The seedlings may be planted between the rows of potatoes after they have been earthed up for the. last time Dig sonic tVcll rotted manure into (lie soil before planting them' out. Puddle tlie seedlings in, and afterwards make the soil firm about them. The protection of the potato ridges brings them on well, and when tlie potatoes arc lifted the soil falls back and earths them up. EARTHING UP POTATOES. As soon as potatoes arc far enough through thev should be earthed up, a little at a time. Before drawing tlie soil up to them, give a good watering, and when the soil lias dried enough to be worked sprinkle a little nitrate of soda along the rows. Hoe Olis in lightly, and then draw the soil up to the plants. Earthing up should not be done when the soil is very wet or cold, as it shuts In cold soil round the plants. Tlie ideal condition of the soil is slightly moist and sun-warmed. Keep the hoc going constantly between the rows of all vegetables, for an inch or two of finely powdered soil is a good protection tor roots. When watering is done it should be thoroughly done, and afterwards, as soon as the soil is dry enough, the surface should be hoed to make it loose aud .powdery.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/DOM19291102.2.142

Bibliographic details

Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 33, 2 November 1929, Page 32

Word Count
1,394

GARDEN NOTES Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 33, 2 November 1929, Page 32

GARDEN NOTES Dominion, Volume 23, Issue 33, 2 November 1929, Page 32