OUTSIDE PAINTING

Dominion, Volume 22, Issue 72, 18 December 1928, Page 19

OUTSIDE PAINTING

HINTS FOR THE AMATEUR PRACTICAL METHODS As the best time for all outside paintins is during the summer, particularly during the early months before the sun is hot enough to cause blisters, the following instructions have been prepared for amateurs who are not experts. The successful application of paint depends mainly on the surface to winch it is to be applied as well as the quality of the paint used; these two essentials should be considered first. As a rule new paint should not be applied on the top of old paint until the surface of the latter has been rubbed down and left as clean as possible, but in very exposed positions, where the surface is pitted or the heat ot the sun has caused blisters, the whole ot the old paint should be removed before, the new coat is applied. If the old surface is in good condition, first of all wash it down with a fairly strong solution of ordinary soda dissolved in hot water, using a worn and fairly stiff brush; a scrubbing-brush will do The effect of the washing,', which should be done vigorously, is to remove dirt and grease. The next job is to rub down the surface with pumice stone. . . ... Lhe best lubricant to use with the pumice stone is soapy water; the stone is dipped into the water from time to time to keep it wet. The main object of rubbing down the surface in.this way is to take off the rough surface of the old paint so as to leave it as smooth as possible; this job is worth while, as paint goes much further on a smooth surface and it is not so liable to blister. After the broad surfaces have been smoothed down, an old knife is handy for cleaning-out the inside corners of sashes, mouldings, or other places where it is difficult to get at with the pumice stone. The old paint-work is now washed down again with clean water and is ready, when dry, for the new paint. Badly blistered or pitted surfaces should be treated diff rently and require the use of a blow-lamp. . . . In addition a scraper is required. With these tools and an old knife for awkward corners any amount of work can be done. . In using the blow-lamp a small area is warmed by the flame, the latter being moved continually so that it covers, an area of about six square inches at a time. Soon the paint will start to burn and blister, and when this happens, the scraper is used to remove the film of old paint, always working upwards. On no account should the flame of the lamp be allowed to burn the old paint, but if it is allowed to. thoroughly heat the surface and is followed up with the scraper, the old paint Will peel off quite easily. The ,surface is now rubbed down with glass-paper and rubbed over-with an old brush to remove dust. Crtieks and holes should be ' filled in with putty applied with a fairly stiff knife-blade. There is yet another method of removing old paint; it takes much longer, but is convenient when a blow-lamp is not available. Dissolve some caustic soda in water, making the solution as concentrated as possible, and then apply with an old brush. Several applications may be necessary if the coat is thick or very old, and the scraper may be required to facilitate the process. When the surface has been cleaned in this way the work should be washed down with vinegar or a solution of acetic acid and water; the effect of this wash is to neutralise the alkali. The work is finally washed over with,clean water and left to dry. Presuming the work is ready for painting, the next thing is to obtain the paint, and here it is difficult to suggest any particular kind. There are innumerable brands of ready-made paint on the market, .but, as a rule, the more expensive brands made by reputable firms are cheaper in the end, as they usually cover a larger surface than a cheap paint. As a general rule it will be found that lib. of ready mixed paint will cover about 50 sq. ft. on previously-painted work, and about 30 sq. ft. of new wood having a smooth-planed surface. The smoother the surface, the greater the coveringpower. In the best quality paint the.base and pigment is very finely ground, and the quality of the oil and turpentine gives a much better finish. In purchasing a - ready-made paint it is- as well to state that it is intended for exterior work when required for any outdoor painting. If there is much painting to do, it will pay to buy the-materials And mix up the paint oneself. For white paint use white lead, and for every pound of white lead add loz. of patent paste driers and mixstiff with linseed oil, using a piece of planed wood for stirring the materials together. The mixture should be strained through a piece of canvas and then thinned down with two parts of turpentine and one of linseed oil. Good turpentine is rather expensive, and many painters use a turps substitute, but if possible use the best materials. Colours may also be obtained in paste form and are mixed with turpentine and linseed oil, in the above proportions, to a suitable consistence for working. It should be noted that a paint rich in oil will dry with a glossier surface than one which has been thinned down with turps or turps substitute, and as a rule the glossier the surface the longer it will last; this is one of the reasons why enamel paints are being used for outdoor work; many firms are now specialising in outdoor paints having a glossy surface approaching enamel. Having, provided the paint, the next thing is a suitable brush or brushes. The best is the cheapest in the long run. When using new brushes, they should always be soaked in water for some time before being used; this prevents the bristles from working out. . The same applies to all brushes that have not been used for some time and are quite dry. It is convenient to have the paint in a tin with a handle, but if a ready mixed naint is used in the tin, first see that it is thoroughly mixed, using a short piece of stick, and then stretch across the top of the tin a length of wire. This is intended for use in wiping from the brush the superfluous paint. Before beginning to paint, have at hand a piece of rag dipped in turpentine or turps substitute, and also, if there are window frames to be painted, provide a flat piece of tinned sheet or zine, about 12in. by Gin. Having made sure that the paint Is thoroughly mixed, begin all vertical stir-, faces from the top and work downwards. Do not have too much paint on the brush and work it in by straight even strokes.. Before the brush is dipped into the paint again, make sure that the brush is practically free from paint; each brushful should be made to cover as much space as possible. It is not necessary to pay too much attention to even strokes of the brush when laying on the colour; the main thing is to work it thoroughly on to the surface and to cover every portion. When the area within reach has been covered, continue until the whole of the surface is covered, and then straight, even strokes of the brush, applied lightly, will leave the paint quite smooth. In painting large surfaces such as plain doors, it is as well to cover a space about 12in. wide from top to bottom, and finish before going on with another strip. In painting panelled doors, first completely finish the panels, then the muntins or inner upright stiles, then the cross rails, leaving the outer rails to the end. When working on window frames, paint all the small sashbars first, and here the piece of sheet metal will be found useful; it is placed against the glass, and the brush can be used without fear of painting the glass. This method takes a little extra time, but it saves having to wipe the glass afterwards; very few amateur painters have had the necessary practice required to take the brush along a snshbar without touching the glass. The painting of outside ironwork or zinc, such as guttering, rainwater pipes, and railings, is done in the same way, but the surface requires a different preparation. A simple method of cleaning down the. old paint is to use a wire brush, in conjunction with an old knife or an old file. It is of. course, impossible to obtain the smoothness on iron railings that is possible on wood, but an effort should

be made to get as smooth a surface as possible. With work that has been painted before, the pits-in the metal will be filled up, but with all cast-iron work, it smooth surface is hardly possible. In applying the paint use an old sash tool; the paint should be dabbed on at first rather than stroked on, the latter being reserved for the finishing touches. It should be noted that outside ironwork should be thoroughly protected, and it generally pays to give the work two coats; the first can be of second quality paint, but the last coat should be of as good a quality as cau.be afforded. In conclusion, do not forget to clean out all paint brushes at the conclusion of the work ; if the painting is carried over several days, the brushes should be suspended in turps or turps substitute or water to prevent them hardening, but when finished with, they should be cleaned out ns much as possible in turps, stroking the brushes on an -odd piece of wood, and then' thoroughly washed in soap and water; soda should not be used. When dry, the brushes should be wrapped in paper and kept in a dry place.—A. C. I-lorth, in the “English and Amateur Mechanic.”