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HOW TO LACQUER

EFFECTIVE DECORATION AT SMALL COST A SIMPLE ART CRAFT What is lacquer? ' Brushing lacquer, about which I am writing, is celluloid in solution, which, on drying—anti this is does very rapidly —leaves a permanent him of coloured celluloid over the object to which it has been applied. It is very like paint or enamel, but gives a solution far superior to either of these, being almost indistinguishable from well-glazed china. ft may now bo obtained in a variety of brilliant colours, which may be mixed, just as or dinary paints, to form practically anv required shade. . Soma lacquered floors are beautiful and most striking in appearance, also are' easily cleaned. Doors, and other woodwork, may also be treated most effectively; but it is rather of the application of this material to small objects that I have been asked to write. My suggestions, ‘too, are not so much for ■those fortunate people who can buy, or pay to have done, whatever they fancy, to beautify their homes, as for the small householders anxious to enhance the beauty of their rooms with a minimum of expenditure. The small objects to which I refer may bo anything in the way of china, glass, wood, metal, or other material. Any object of this nature which is simple and pleasing in form, may be made of greater decorative value by the addition of colour. Perfectly plain cylindrical objects are excellent, particularly if well proportioned —say, about two or three times the height that they are in diameter. I have coloured these in all sizes, from small glass cylinders (originally containing tabloids of some description) about as large in section as a threepenny piece, and about two inches high, to round biscuit tins, about four inches in diameter, and a foot high. Lacquer, by the way, takes well on old tins, and these, if watertight, become not only ornamental, but useful for holding flowers or gum. Some, of the small glass jars in which potted meats, or other commodities, are sold, and which are generally thrown awav as soon as emptied, are quite good in outline, ami, when lacquered, form charming little ornaments. You will probably find that your botlle-oh has a good selection of these, which he will be* only too glad to let von have, as they aro valueless, from his point of view. Chinese earthenware wine jars, or old ginger jars, which may often bo lad for the asking, arc splendid for this purpose. Old candlesticks, whether of china, wood or metal, make a nice change. Old, discoloured and discarded antimony trays, boxes, or other articles off which tho silver and gold plating has worn, may be made very handsome if picked out with different colours, as the designs on them are generally quite artistic, .'•ery bold, aud excellently moulded.

Before applying the lacquer, take cure that the objects aro thoroughly clean and dry. Dirt of any sort, and particularly grease, is sure to causa you trouble.

Use a soft brush. The softer the better. Ordinary water colour painting brushes, costing from 2d. upwards, ac-‘ cording to size, are as good as any. For the larger objects, use a camel hair brush in preference to a varnish brush.

Don’t try to work the lacquer on thinly, as you would paint. Sweep it on with a fall brush, and do so, as far as possible, without giving a! second sweep over the same spot, as, drying so rapidly, it quickly sets sticky, and then will not make a good surface. So work over your object as quickly as possible. Don’t keep brushing it over and over, in an attempt to get it even. You will only make it worse. If it is a bit thin in places, a second coat, after the first one is thoroughly dry, will remedy this. ■ These remarks apply more than ever to a second coat as. unlike paint, the dry first coat is quickly softened and dissolved by the fresh lacquer; so brush the second coat on as quickly and deftly as you can.* Very small objects mav be coated best by being simply dipped in the pot of lacquer, and allowed to drain for a few seconds. This gives a nice, smooth, even coat.

With regard to tho colours to use. These, of course, must depend somewhat on the colours already existing in your room. Contrasts to the prevailing tones are generally far better than trying to match them, but almost any colours may be used in moderation. Tho very small objects are best done self-coloured in bright shades. In the larger ones, two or more shades may be used

An effective colouring is shading from yellow, through orange, to Chinese red, or through light green to dark green or blue.

A simple silhouette in black, on a self-coloured or shaded object, looks very well, but in doing this, use a very fine brush, and very littlo colour in it at a time, as it is very ant to run, and be sure the groundwork is thoroughly dry before trying to put any design bn it. Leave it for some hours, although, to. the touch, it feels dry in, perhaps, twenty minutes. Simple designs in contrasting colours can be made most effective. For example: A black or dark green ground, ornamented with spots or small dabs of change and red, these getting more and more numerous as you get towards tho base of the object. For more ambitious designs and colourings, oil paints can be used over a groundwork of lacquer, or painted direct on to a plate or other object. In this way you can do any design just as on a canvas. Thon, when thoroughly dry, lacquer over the whole with clear lacquer, which will impart to it a porcelain-liko glaze and finish. This gives endless scope for getting simply the beautiful effects of hand-painted china. Tho reader will doubtless, however, with this introduction, find for himself endless ways of using lacquer ns a homo beantiiier. As in every other art or cratt, perfection comes with practice; but good materials and tools (which, in this case, are, fortunately, inexpensive). and right principles of working io begin with, aro essenitnl.—J. Paget, in “Tho Australian Dome Beautiful,” MODERN PLASTERING

Science has recently developed a new, revolutionary method of plastering, which, while combining several building materials in one. adds to tho inherently beneficial qualities of the plastered type of interior finish, states an American paper. It adds insulation and is sounddeadening, waterproof and vermin-proof. This product consists of a fabric of galvanised, cold-drawn, electricallywelded wires, attached to which is a backing composed of two layers'of waterproof building paper, one saturated with asphalt and tho two fastened together with waterproof asphalt mastic. The material is easy to handle, easy to applv, easy to cut and easy to plaster over. It saves times in application, saves plaster, goes on quicker, gives a better finished job, and lasts longer than any lath plaster base available. It gives damp-proof, crack-free, permanent construction that will retain the beauty and utility of the original job for generations, the reinforcing of concrete roads is now The same principle asthat employed in applied to ceilings and walls, and it furnishes the home-bui]der with absolutne assurance of permanence in his planter investment.

SUMMARY OF TENDERS CLOSING DUR'.NG THE PERIOD OCTOBER 5 TO 19. 1 ' J. M. Dawson.—Tenders erection 5storied reinforced building. Coutenay Place. Close noon, October 5. A. Victor Smith. —Tenders erection brick residence. Lower Hutt. Close noon. October 5. N.Z. Government Railways.—Tenders erection 12 bouses. Lower Hutt. Close noon, October 8. R. Thorrold J aggard.—Tenders, alterations to ' theatre, Palmerston North. Close noon. October 11. Wellington Education Board.—Tenders erection shelter sheds, Petone. Close noon. October 11. Clare and Clere.—Tenders erection St. Joseph’s Church, Hawera. Close noon. October 18.

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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/DOM19271005.2.111.1

Bibliographic details

Dominion, Volume 21, Issue 9, 5 October 1927, Page 17

Word Count
1,303

HOW TO LACQUER Dominion, Volume 21, Issue 9, 5 October 1927, Page 17

HOW TO LACQUER Dominion, Volume 21, Issue 9, 5 October 1927, Page 17