AUTUMN MILLINERY.

Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 1027, 17 January 1911, Page 9

AUTUMN MILLINERY.

CHANGES NOW IN SIGHT. It sounds ridiculous with tho summer not half way through as yet and som'e of the very warmest weather to come, but there it is, oiic of the largest drapery os-, tablishments is showing new millinery ■ air this week, and doubtless tho.-e who desire to havo tho very latest shriek of fashion will purchase at once in view of the races on Saturday. Luckily fashion's cries aro less shrill' than formerly, and tho : models called autumn really suggest' that time of year. There aro still large hats, but the lines of the 'coming season are distinctly graceful, the absolute flatness, or studied .untidiness which the early spring models showed, have disappeared into tho limbo of forgotten things. Black velvet or satin predominates in these, feathers are much used, so is fur, and colours seem at a' discount. When used they are nearly all veiled, eveii the bright Oriental trimmings which many show are veiled with tulle or chiffon, and on many models the bright coloured trimming is tho only bright spot, for the colours keep mostly to subdued tones, dark blue, mole, or' tan; • Tho very newest shape is like a mob cap with'a brim.' Some indeed are without any brinrand finish with a real mob frill. A pretty example was of black velvet tied with silver tissue ribbon and having a wee frill of silver tissue peep-, ing from underneath. The brims hardly'* alter the toque-like effect; all are guilt- . less of bandeaux and fit on the head in '.ft" most cosy and secure way, calculated" ■.tokdefy; the-'fiercest .'of -Wellington winds.: A beautiful example was of black velvet with a broad band of silver and pearl embroidery and a bunch of. white. Lancer; feathers at one side. Lancer plumes, such as.Miss Grace Palotta made us acquainted with, are to be seen on many of the models, and are a very graceful as well as smart trimming. These mob' crowns aro vei'y high (by no means is there any effect of. small hats); and this height of crown is to be seen. in other shapes as well. One with an ermino. brim had drooping bows of black satin covering a helmet-shaped crown, another had a baud of sable on toque of. dull, amethyst velvet, and chiffon veiled silk, while-two iridescent wings fairly towered on cither side. A most becoming littlemodel was of'seal in the. same shape with a trimming of plaited coloured ribbon, and this had. a most becoming "kink" just over, tho face. A, freak of this style of hat was ai helmet .of: blue, satin lined with red, which became quite;, smart when one threw over it a 'bluo* motor veil bordered with red. . ' The brimmed hats mostly , affect the mushroom shape. Real mushrooms, which "shofc no mark'of-demdro'ation between crown and brim; many are of satin, and nearly all are veiled in chiffon. A white satin had a veiling of black-chiffon and a black lining, and a shot bluo silk was subdued by being covered with bluo chiffou. The coloured,-wooden beads which we have heard of as being used for trimmings, appear on some oi the new hats, and nearly all have gold or silver lace or tissue among the trimming. A black satin had gold lace pleated round tho crown, and a bunch of'gold roses at the: side, and a large hat of grey crepe de chine had the same lace in silver with a bunch of. shaded plumes. One very pretty model was of purple satin: with Ince of platinum and silver, and a design of purplo' and- black satin flowers running across it. "Dolly Varden," as one shape is called, is certainly new for that name. The example was of purplo satin, the brim slightly dipping at each side and turned completely up at the back, both back and crown finished with perfectly , modelled dahlias, in . purplo shades. In straw .Tagel seems to be the favourite, and in these too the,.:colours seem cli'ieliy mole or tan. A jvro'ttv"]it'tle' morn-' ing' hat in grey straw had two bright pink wings to enliven it. and another was suiartly-turned off.the,face and trimmed with a-simulated: wing o'f blue made 'eh'-' tirely in silk thread and picked out with tiny beads. Indeed, to make a feather of something that is not a feather is a favourite device. One hat had a quill formed of, the finest, silver cord, and another had them made of black chenille. A real heron's feather formed an effective trimming on ope liat, and another boasted a bird of Paradise, as well as a band of ermine, naturally an expensive model. Ribbon is bordered, black .with pink or white and blue with blackj and the bows come from the top.of the crown and droop all round, and a couple of models showed- fringed ribbon, ono of blue having a narrow bordering of . pink, fringe on tho edge of the ribbon ming.There are one or two bright coloured models to be seen; one of crimson velvet, lined with black, had a simple'trimming ..of a band of fur and tapestry, buckle,-and another, a cerise silk, was covered with gr-ey chiffon and trimmed with bows of ..the same edged .with fur.. Lastly, from tho smallest of boxes, hardly larger than a shoe-box, came the. gem-of the whole show. 'A tam-o'-shanter .of tapestry braided with dull cold, witlf

In straw .Tngel seems to be the favourite, and in these too the,.:colours seem cli'ieliy mole or tan. A jvro'ttv"]it'tle' morning hat in grey straw had two bright pink wings to enliven it. and another was suiartly-turned off.the,face and trimmed with a-simulatedSwing o'f blue lfiade «»•" tirely in silk thread and picked out with tiny beads. Indeed, to make a feather of something that is not a feather is a favourite device. One hat had a quill formed of, the finest, silver cord, and another had them made of black chenille.

A real heron's feather formed an effective trimming on ope liat, and another boasted a bird of Paradise, as well as a band of ermine, naturally an expensive model. Ribbon is bordered, black .with pink or white and blue with blackj and the bows come from the top.of the crown and droop all round, and a couple of models showed- fringed ribbon, ono of blue having a narrow bordering of . pink, fringe on tho edge of the ribbon trimming.-

There are one or two bright coloured models to be seen; one of crimson velvet, lined with black, had a simple'trimming .of a band of fur and tapestry, buckle,-and another, a cerise silk, was covered with grey chiffon and trimmed with bows of ..the same edged .with fur..

Lastly, from tho smallest of boxes, hardly larger than a shoe-box, came the. gem-of the whole show. 'A tam-o'-shanter .of tapestry braided with dull pold, witlf a narrow band of fur, and gold . tassel: just an ideal hat for someoilo young and 'fair and fluffy-haired.