HOLIDAY RAMBLES IN THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

Clutha Leader, Volume XII, Issue 596, 18 December 1885, Page 3

HOLIDAY RAMBLES IN THE HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND.

(By an Otago Student.)

The road from Blairgowrie to' the Highlands is a favourite road for tourists. It is the road Her Hajesty used to drive to her Highland home, before the opening of the Deeside railway. It is the road on which your favourite whip, James M'lntoshj gained his first experience with the ribbons, when he was driver of Her Majesty's private mails, and remarks are yet made as to the wonderful pace at which he negotiated the hills, and steep pinches he had to go over. — From Blairgowrie to the Bridge of Cally is a distance of six miles, and the road is one of the most picturesque' to be. found even in Scotland. One of the most prominent features is Craighall house which is' built upon the top of a high perpendicular rock at a bend of the river. Anything let drop out of the window would fall into a large black pool of the river many feet below. The glen here is very narrow and densely wooded on both sides, the view equalling if not surpassing the celebrated pass of Killiecrankie. A little further on is seen Ericht Lodge nestling cosiely upon a haugh near to the water's edge. Other gentlemen's seats are also prominent objects along the route. At the Bridge of Cally the Ardle joins the Blackwater. Strathardle is a pretty narrow glen opening away to the left. The highland road proceeds by Blackwater and Glenshee, to the Spittal, a distance of 14 miles, thence to the Castletown . of Braemar, a distance of 15 miles. After leaving the Spittal the tourist proceeds up Glenbeg where the road is level for four miles. The glen is very narrow with steep hills on either side. At the head of Glenbeg stand two steep high hills, the broad i backed Glasmaol to the right and the Cairn well to the left. The road ascends round and up the right side of the latter — a very steep climb for the poor horses. There is one very sharp and steep bend called the ' Devil's elbow,' and it is related as shewing, the courage possessed by Her Majesty, that she always quietly and composedly continued her seat inner carriage, the horses coming down at full speed, while the members of her suite preferred to walk past the bend. — By the way — His Satanic Majesty's limbs as well as his possesions seem to be well scattered over the world. He has a bend and a blow-hole, at Catlins river, a ' half acre ' in Milton, and many snug corners elsewhere. — From the top of the Cairnwell to Braemar is a descent of 1100 feet, it being gradual and easy throughout. The hills on both sides are high and rugged, and mostly covered with heather. In passing along from the Spittal to Braemar the country presents two features that attract attention and that have considerable bearing on practical politics here at present. The one is that there is not a single farm house to be seen, and only one or two houses that are inhabited by either shepherds or gamekeepers. The other feature is that all the way there are numerous ruins of small bo uses, shewing that the glen had at one time supported a good many more people. than it does now. Moreover, the land for the whole way (15 miles), and for 25 miles beyond, belongs to one man — Colonel Farquharson, of-Invercauld. He used to own the country between the Spittal and Blairgowrie (20 miles), but he has had to sell some of his finest estates. Here then is all the land between the Spittal and Braemar, which used to support many families, all in the hands of one man, locked up, and turned into a sheep walk and game preserve. — Castleton of Braemar is a small place dropped down amongst the hills, with a few shops, gentlemen's villas, lodging houses, and two immense hotels — the Fife Arms and the Invercauld Arms. It was near to the former that the rebellion headed by the Earl of Mar broke out in 1715. v There is good fishing in the Dee, and shooting all round. There is a fine road all the Avay along the banks of the Dee from Braemar to Ballater On leaving the Castletown we obtain a view of the fine ruin of old Mar Castle ; also the mansion of Invercauld House (Colonel Farquharson's). It has a magnificent wood in the background, but much of it has been cut down, which spoils the view. The Colonel, with all his fine estates, is pretty hard up, and had to cut and sell the timber to keep the pot boiling. On the right of the road are some wild crags, many being almost perpendicular ; also fine trees — Scotch firs, larches, weeping birches, &c. About six miles from Braemar is the Inn of Inver, and three miles further on, on a slight slope close to the Dee, is the Castle of Balmoral, with the wooded hill of Craig-an-Gowan rising behind it. The castle is built of pure grey granite, in' the Scottish baronial style ; that is to say, there are plenty ofturrets and towers about it. It is a very fine building. Here, in her Highland home, the Queen lives very quietly, throwing aside the formality of Court life. When . living here, she' drives about' overy day, and goes freely among the people. While I was there, one of her retired gamekeepershad got seriously ; hurt. The Queen went to the cottage inquiring for him, and he died while she was th°re. She also attended his' funeral, which shows the interest she l takes in her' servants,. and in this re-' spect seta an example, it would he well

that some would follow. A short distance from the castle is Crathie Church, where the Queen attends divine service during her stay* In Crathie churchyard lie the remains" of « the famous John Brown, who has a very pretty tombstone erected to his memory; with this inscription : — ■ This stone is erected In affectionate And grateful remembrance of John Brown, The devoted and fnithful Personal attendant Aud beloved friend of Queen Victoria, In whose service he had been for 34 years. That friend on whose fidelity you count, That friond given you by circumstances Over -which you have no control, -was Ood'a own gift, Well done, good and faithful servant ; enter thou into the joy of thy Lord. Presh flowers are laid upon the grave every day, and I also saw on it a very pretty heather wreath. The Queen is very familiarly and lovingly spoken of by the people round about, and when the Royal Pamily were here as children everybody liked them. The Princess Royal was a special favorite, and was much in request at marriages, christenings, etc. She liked to romp about amongst the gillies, taking an interest in their guns, dogs, etc., and when she was married the head gamekeeper was amongst those honored with an invitation. I hope she is as cheerful and happy in Germany as she used to be in Balmoral. — The ascent of Lochnagar is easily made from about Balmoral, but I had not time to climb it. •It is 3774 feet high. Byron spent part of his early life near Lochnagar, and thus recorded his sentiments regarding it: Away ye gay landscapes, ye gardens of roses ! In you let the minions of luxury rove, Restore me' the rocks where the snow flake reposes, Tho' still they fire sacred to freedom and love. * * » * * I sigh for the valley of dark Lochnagar. I quite endorse' these sentiments, and this record of the fact would no doubt be gratifying to his Lordship could he know of it. — Two miles from Balmoral is Abergeldie, the Prince of Wales' shooting lodge. Seven miles further down the Dee is Ballater, a village much frequented by tourists and others during the summer months. I climbed Craigen-douach, a hill above Ballater, from which a fine view is obtained. From Ballater to Aberdeen is a distance of 40 miles, and this I accomplished by train.