An uncomplicated designer

Press, 5 December 1989, Page 26

An uncomplicated designer

JAN COOK regards interviews with a degree of cynicism. She does not seek publicity. She is not intent on becoming a fashion icon for Christchurch’s beautiful people. Fame and fortune “will be great if it happens, in the meantime I just get on with it,” Somehow though, the word is out on the streets and Jan Cook has a fastgrowing fan club. Jan Cook designs under two labels: “Wild” and “Suggestions.” “ ‘Wild’ is my day/street/party label. For this I use lycra because I prefer the simplicity stretch fabric provides — no zips, no rows of buttons, just wearable, non-fussy, comfortable clothes.” By comfortable Jan means the wearer should feel good, in mind and body. “My clothes do not disguise. I design for women with confidence in themselves. The'little black dress sure, but one that is different from the others.” Her seasonal ranges are small. By necessity. “I am a one-man band. Every ‘Wild’ garment is designed, cut and sewn by me. Only me. “If I expand so do the overheads and the problems. And I am really intent on keeping costs down. ‘Wild’ is now established as an affordable label and I’m going to keep it that way.” Affordable in Jan Cook’s terms doesn’t mean a lack of quality. Or design input. “Simplicity is essential but really you can do so much when you use stretch fabrics. I am not a pattern cutter. I use the ‘draping method’ and work directly with the fabric, cutting, pinning, folding, swathing. This summer I’ve also been using silk ... a fabric that always presents a problem because it crushes. So I crush it deliberately. First. “Suggestions” is her lingerie label. Unashamedly luxurious lingerie. Nightgowns, robes, pyjamas, slips, camisoles, cami-knickers. Many are cut on the bias, all feature a detailed finish, pintucks and lace inserts are used with restraint. “This year I’m into strong colours — deep red and dark blue — as well as the traditional shades of ivory, white, pale pink. Pure silk is so lovely in itself it doesn’t need elaborate ornamentation.” Where to here then for this talented designer who returned to Christchurch from London where she worked with and for such luminaries as Victor Herbert and Catherine Walker? “I’ve lots of plans for the future that mean putting my personal life first, business second. But I do want to go on designing and making clothes for the people who want them. ‘Suggestions’ is about to expand so I have to think that through. Right, now, however, I have a-silk wedding gown to finish and next season’s range to start on.” Jan Cook’s “Wild” label is available at Metropole. “Suggestions” lingerie retails in Wellington and Auckland and is available in Christchurch through Susie Bear.