Canterbury wines fulfil promise

Press, 26 September 1989, Page 9

Canterbury wines fulfil promise

Maurice Hunter’s

grapevine!

This year the function for the 1989 release of Giesen wines was held at Tiffanys restaurant where we were treated to an evening of enjoyable company and a demonstration of matching fine food with fine wines which would be difficult to better.

It has certainly taken longer than one would have imagined for the Burnham vineyard to yeild commercial quantities, but this year the Giesens have finally done it. No fewer than eight of the nine 1989 releases of white wines are sourced from Canterbury, more than half of which originate at Burnham. The winemaker, Marcel Giesen, readily agreed that the much vaunted 1989 season was well up to forecast, and had made life so much easier. I suppose that I should not complain that the season had devastated my garden when wines of such quality eventuated. Served as an aperitif, the 1989 chablis was a delightful palate cleanser, soft, but fresh and crisp because of minimal residual sugar, and very easy drinking. Although made from Burnham muller thurgau, a little of Marcel’s expertise brought home to us the versatility of this under-rated variety. A mouth watering grilled fillet of salmon with an orange glaze was accompanied by the 1989 riesling. The full fruitiness immediately attracted attention, and it was no surprise to discover that the fruit came from Amberley. This is a big wine with

great balance and a long finish. It is remarkably forward and is forecast for two to three years development. Then followed a striking Chardonnay, a blend of almost 50/50 Bumham and Waipara fruit. The result certainly warranted the tender care given its production. Half of the remarkably ripe grapes were fermented in new German oak barrels, and half tank-fermented. Nine different yeasts were used and a malolactic fermentation followed. After three months on the lees the wine was aged in one to two year old German and American oak barrels. (I am sure that if Marcel were a musician he would be another Mozart!) It has all the ingredients to become a great wine.

While we were served with, first, a very tasty corn and ham chowder, followed by smoked lamb fillets with a warm salad, samples of several more whites appeared at our elbows. <

The first of these was a Blenheim gewurztraminer, full of very ripe spiciness, with a big bouquet and full palate with a delicate aftertaste.

Then the first ever commercial Canterbury sauvignon blanc made its debut. The structure is intriguing in that it is made from three different base wines. Tank No. 1 contained dry fermented Waipara juice, Tank No. 2 malolactic fermented Waipara juice, and tank No. 3 dry fermented Burnham juice. To complement the very ripe Waipara grapes, the Burnham fruit was deliberately picked at a lower sugar content. The result is a sophisticated wine, the development ol which in the next twelve months will be most interesting.

Three medium wines were led by a 1989 Burnham gewurztraminer. Fully ripened grapes allowed the full spiciness of this variety to develop. It is light in body with a soft, well balanced finish and will intensify with bottle age. The medium Waipara riesling, just like its Dad, is full, floral and aromatic, very forward and delightful drinking. .„ . Lastly in the medium range came a Burnham muller thurgau, very full flavoured due not only to ripeness, but also to a 15 per cent content of bo-

trytised grapes. The concentrated flavour therefore has a very soft acid finish which makes it an ideal drink-now wine.

A point to be noted is that, because of the high sugar content at harvest, all of the dry wines are proportionately higher in alcohol which will ensure a long cellar life. The Chardonnay and riesling are particularly recommended for laying down.

Time now to talk about the reds although, between you and me, I would like to elaborate more on the venison, tender as chicken, on a red onion and pear compote, served with a blueberry and orange sauce. But lack of space prevents a description of this

inspired creation. I find it difficult to enthuse about pinot noir, and the 1988 Giesen is no exception. It is a good, well made wine from ripe Blenheim grapes, has been barrel aged in new German oak for 15 months and has been through malolactic fermentation.

Here, I think, is the key. Malolactic fermentation softens the acid. In a red wine it is sometimes difficult to. differentiate between acid and tannin, and a red wine needs one or the other, of both, and this is what I miss.

Nevertheless, Marcel says it is good for long term cellaring, and who am I to disagree?

Much more to my liking is the ’BB cabernet sauvignon/merlot. The merlot softens the cabernet sauvignon without losing tannin. It is an elegant, stylish wine from Marlborough grapes, 25 per cent merlot, and has had 11 months barrel ageing in French and German oak, a wine to repay cellar time.

And then — ta-ra-ta-ra! — along with the dessert, a strawberry vacherin served with meringue fingers, which I do not have space to more than mention, came the piece de resistance, the 1989 Canterbury botrytised riesling. Made from incredibly ripe grapes from the Burnham vineyard, the botrytis infected bunches were hand selected. The intense sweet raisin character is carried right through to the last sip, and there is enough balancing acid to make this the perfect dessert wine.

That is not all. A new label has been added to the artistic Giesen range, this time by an artist not generally known to New Zealand art lovers. Mrs Giesen senior, known by her familiars as Gudrun, is an enthusiastic amateur painter of no mean abil'ity, as the exhibits on the walls of the Giesen’s West Melton home will testify. This year she has produced a still life monotype for the botrytised riesling label which perfectly suits the style of wine and adequately matches the standard of label of the rest of the range.

The recognition of the artist was a great way to complete the evening.