Summer Design Preview

Press, 1 August 1989, Page 15

Summer Design Preview

COLOUR, MOVEMENT, and fabric are what this summer is all about, says Rosaria Hall. Designs are soft, unstructured and flowing with a strong Eastern influence, the emphasis on elegance, simplicity and ease of movement. Hall describes the Rosatti and Rosaria Hall labels as "awash with colour,” most of it inspired by the bazaars of Asia.

Colour is vibrant, strong, but not the clear poster colours of the past. Shades like rock melon, curry, claret and blue marine through to the lighter tones of bleached cane, ash, sage and tusk, along with citrus, copper, moss, brick and pumice are the 1989/1990 alternatives.

With the new colours comes the new shape — the sarong, which Rosaria Hall feels epitomises this summer.

Worn with a white linen shirt during the day or a silk T-shirt at night, the perfect companion to the new trapeze jacket, the sarong is full of soft, luxurious movement.

The trapeze jacket results from the death of the shoulder pad. Silhouettes are now almost reversed, narrow at the shoulder, falling out softly towards the hips and ankles. Pants, says Hall, are still vital for summer in wide and cigarette shapings. The cigarette pants are worn for evening with a silk waistcoast. Lengths are everywhere, with skirts long and flowing or above the knee. Waistbands have disappeared. Skirts and pants are either high-waisted, some coming just under the bust, or are simply cut without a waistband. All-in-one pants-suits have gone some way towards taking over from the dress, but the most important dress statement this season is the chemise. Totally plain, sleeveless and fitting, cut beautifully from a silky, heavy fabric, the chemise is elegant and simple. A different story can be found in the Rosaria Hall Jeans label, which Hall says has taken on its own true identity for the first time this season. Designed completely in black and white and almost entirely in knit fabrics, Rosaria Hall Jeans is affordable wear for the week-end.

Prices, says Hall, will be under $l5O for a dress. Rosaria Hall, Rosatti and Rosaria Hall Jeans are due for release about the middle of this month.

ABOVE: — White Swiss cotton organza jacket over a white lycra bodysuit and wide black Italian linen-twill trousers by Rosaria Hall. Photograph by SEAN CARR Model LYNDA McMANUS from Spotlight Model Agency

ROBERT GORMACK has relaxed the suit for summer. But behind the season’s easy looks lies hard thinking and concepts tailored to consumer needs. Women who buy Judith Malcolm, Robert Gormack and Classifications labels are finding a greater cross-over between business, evening and week-end clothing, says Gormack, and are therefore looking for garments with more flexibility. While the winter ranges took into account the business/eveningwear mix, the summer range has created garments which can be adapted from business-wear to resort-wear and what Gormack terms "week-end restaurant-wear.” The influence is American city dressing — soft, easy pieces in the vein of Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. In the Judith Malcolm range, Gormack has interpreted this to create a monotonal, minimalist look in “very special” fabrics. After several seasons of black, women now want colour, says Gormack, and he has made an effort to use new shades which are unlikely to be seen elsewhere. Frost, a delicate, pale blue-green, and ochre, a delightful butter yellow verging on gold, are the first of these. Other colours to be released will tone with these — Gormack describes them as “a sort of lilac and a sort of purple, but it’s really unfair to call them that — they’re new, off-shades.” The look is cool, elegant and easy. Coordination is important. Jacket, skirt or trousers and top match each other exactly. Jackets are monogrammed with a large self-colour JM, although this is optional. The length is long, and trousers lose their importance. Dresses are created to be trans-seasonal.

There is attention to detail with pleating, tucking and special buttons, but the over-all impression is of a paring down. Unobtrusive shoulder pads, or none at

all, complement the longer styles and there are few restrictive tailoring techniques. Fabrics are practical and textured linens are important. There are two styles of trousers. The first is a redesigned classic trouser, worn longer than necessary and without a centre crease to create a feeling of fullness. The second is the resort trouser, full in the legs but tapered sharply at the ankle. Both are designed to suit most body shapes — "We don’t want to create fashion victims.” The Classifications label concentrates on two colour stories — green, red and cream — or navy and white. Once again, it is not out of place in a business environment, but the styling is slightly more casual. The aim, says Gormack, is to provide more end-uses for the garments. Main pieces include cropped trousers and a classic, collarless jacket. In this range, Gormack has again increased the number of pieces which go together, allowing customers to create more individual looks. Last but far from least is the Robert Gormack label, which is purely and simply resort. Robert Gormack, he says, has gone to the beach. A very smart beach, mind you. Again, the colours are unusual — cucteus, a rich red-gold, Key West, a light; clear green, and saffron are among them. For the main part, the range consists of easy, pull-on pieces, with crepe de chine playing a major part. Throughout the ranges, there is less restriction and less exreme shaping, without returning to the shapelessness of the early 1980 s. Tailored jackets are mixed with soft, flowing skirts. Most garments are designed to be worn with flat shoes. Judith Malcolm, Robert Gormack and Classifications labels will be available from the end of this month.

FOR BARBARA LEE, the living is easy in the summertime of 1989 — 1990. After a structured, body-conscious winter, her message is “relax and let your belt out.” Her summer ranges — Montage and Barbara Lee — are relaxed and unstructured, "the sort of things you can race around in.” One of the most important new pieces is the sarong skirt. The excitement this is causing can be measured by the fact that it has prompted the ever leg-conscious Lee to almost abandon short skirts! While the sarong is long, it is not short on sexiness, revealing the centre of the thigh. (“Everyone must have a good bit there, somewhere!”) but tactfully concealing the midriff. The low-slung effect of the sarong' is achieved by wrapping the hips or adding a belt. If you don’t fancy a trip to the jungle, Barbara Lee suggests you spend summer as a sailor. Navy and white, with gold embroidery and buttons, remains one of Lee’s favourites. On the other hand, you can emerge from the jungles of the east onto the plains of Africa. Safari jackets, minus epaulettes and adorned wih a lot of buttons and pockets, are mixed with baggy shorts and pleated skirts. Chiffon, the other major twist to the season, is also interpreted savanna-style. Pants are important as another interpretation of the trend towards length and are worn wide or tapered. Fabrics are soft and hanging — cottons, silks and linens with a touch of viscose create the perfect drape. Fibres are natural, in keeping with the, earthy themes. Colours veer from the brilliant, clean shades of the Eastern bazaar to the soft, muted tones of its landscape, with the classical navy/white and black/white combinations also appearing. Flame orange, Kelly green and cerise excite; chartreuse, cream, softer browns and greens provide a more subdued alternative. Barbara Lee describes the collection as “wonderful wearable pieces” with a garment to suit every shape. Separates are important, but there are also many dresses. Her influences have tended towards the American designers, with their delight in easy-to-wear pieces. Armani, Donna Karan and Anne Klein are her pick for this summer. The Barbara Lee and Montage' ranges will be released about the middle of this month. ABOVE:— Cream linen safari coat and classic trousers over a cinnamon cotton top from the Montage label by Barbara Lee. Photograph by ANNETTE DEW Model EMMA from Spotlight Model Agency

ABOVE:— Special occasion dress in gold dupion silk and black, white, gold and cerise-patterned georgette from the Robert Gormack label. Photograph by DEAN KOZANIC Model KATHERINE from Spotlight Model Agency