Sherpas’ lives quietly adapt

Press, 28 June 1989, Page 19

Sherpas’ lives quietly adapt

NZPA-Reuter Katmandu ' When Edmund Hillary reached the summit of Mt Everest 36 years ago he did more than make mountaineering history, he changed the lives of a people — the Sherpas. One of those affected was Pertemba Sherpa, who today runs a trekking company and exudes all the confidence . and warmth of a man who has climbed the world’s highest mountain three times. “Hillary loved the Himalayas and especially the Sherpa people, and he came back many times after 1953. He opened a school in 1960 and I became one of the first to study there,” Pertemba said with a broad smile in his Katmandu office. Until Hillary’s school, education was almost nonexistent in the highest regions of north-eastern Nepal where Sherpas had migrated from eastern Tibet. They worked as farmers, herders and tradesmen. Their physical prowess and good nature also made them excellent high-altitude porters on mountaineering expeditions. Hillary, who is now the New Delhi-based New Zealand High Commissioner to India and Nepal, and his friends changed Pertemba’s life. "I dreamt of following in their footsteps to the summit,” he said. Nepal is home to eight of the world’s 10 highest mountains. Threats of freezing temperatures, avalanches, ice falls, strong winds and lack of oxygen have tested the most experienced climbers. Sherpas are more suited for the extreme conditions: Pertemba, who was born in 1949 in the

shadow of Everest, worked as a trekking and climbing guide before he got his first chance to scale a high peak when he joined a British mountaineer, Chris Bonington, on an expedition to’ Annapurna. “I didn’t get to the summit but I supported the team,” he said. In 1975, after two previous unsuccessful attempts on Mt Everest, he joined Bonington as sirdar, chief Sherpa, and scaled the world’s highest peak at 8848 m. The experience was marred by tragedy when an Englishman, Mick Burke, died during the descent. “It took me a long time to get over it, but I went back to Everest in 1979 with a West German expedition and reached the summit again. The weather was good, the view was fantastic and I found myself much more relaxed.” He joined Bonington again on a Norwegian expedition to Mt Everest in 1985, and made it to the top of the world for the third- time. "I’ve been very lucky,” he said. “I’ve had enough for now. Maybe I’ll still try the north side or some other route, but reaching the summit isn’t the most important thing — it’s the enjoyment, the sharing of the experience and the building of friendships.” The bonds forged during a climbing expedition are lasting, he said. “So many things go together — good weather, good equipment and a good team.” Religion is also an important ingredient. As devout Buddhists, Sherpas pray for protection and hold prayer sessions during climbs. Fate has been kind to Pertemba. During

mountaineering career, he has had only two close calls, once narrowly escaping an avalanche and a second time during a descent in darkness. Other Sherpas have not been as fortunate. Seven were killed in the first attempt on Everest in 1922 and many have died since. Pertemba’s close friend, Sungdare, who holds the world record along with Ang Rita for scaling Mt Everest five times, was not as lucky. “During his first attempt he and two other climbers were forced to spend the night outside. The others died, but we had a very good rescue team who managed to get Sungdare down,” said Pertemba. Sungdare lost four toes from frostbite, and spent six months in hospital, but “he hasn’t had any problems since going back,” Pertemba added. Mountaineering has changed since Hillary’s time. Siege-style expeditions with large teams have given way to smaller groups and solo attempts. The opening of Nepal’s borders after World War II has also resulted in a booming tourist industry ' and Sherpas can now choose less hazardous occupations. Many run guest lodges, tea houses or trekking companies. The tourist boom has brought about improvements in education, health care and the standard of living. In spite of the influx of foreigners, Sherpas have guarded their ancient traditions, Pertemba said. “The local culture has become stronger, because the changes have given us an opportunity to explore our own- country. Very few people could travel before.”