Update on news for wine buffs

Press, 27 April 1989, Page 11

Update on news for wine buffs

Maurice Hunter’s

GRAPEVINE

The choice of subject for a wine writer — or any writer for that matter — is not always easy. In the search for a topic this week, I found that there are so many unrelated bits and pieces to deal with that this column should really begin with “I’m not one to gossip, but .. .1” First of all is a Chilean wine, the full title of which sounds like one of those grandees who used to sail the Spanish main, Torres Chilean Santa Cigna cabernet sauvignon 1986. This wine was produced in the province of Curico, about 350 kilometres south of Santiago, by the well known Spanish wine making family of Torres, who purchased the property as a going concern in 1979.

Chile is protected from the devastating effects of the phylloxera louse by the natural barriers of the Pacific Ocean, the Antarctic ice, the Atacama desert and the Andes mountains. It is one of the few areas where the vines are grown on their own roots and, theoretically, could be a useful testing ground to decide whether wine is better, worse, or unaffected when the vines are grafted on to phylloxera resistant stock. That, however, is an

argument which began in France and is never likely to be resolved outside that country. Suffice it to say that Santa Digna cabernet sauvignon 1986 has a deep ruby colour and is full and rich with good ripe fruit character, although with just a touch of stalkiness. Aged in American oak for 15 months, it has good balance and a long finish. Priced at around $ll, it is good value.

Another red, this time from Australia, has been added to the Robard and Butler international family of wines, the 1986 Coonawarra cabernet shiraz. The grapes were picked with a high sugar content and, after fermentation, the wine was aged in American and French oak for six months and bottled in Australia.

It has a delightfully clear and lively colour,

full, soft fruit and flows easily over the palate, perhaps a little too easily as the finish is rather on the light side. Nevertheless, it has the mark of Coonawarra finesse and there is no room for complaint in the suggested retail price of around $l3. Winter warmers With the drop in temperatures, we have noticed an increase in sales of “winter warmers,” namely, sherries and ports, an area which has not attracted a great deal of attention over the yers. The swing of the fashion pendulum is slowly bringing port more into prominence and there is an excellentrange of choice.

One of the most consist-, ent for some time has been Robard and Butler Artillery Port which, whether it wins competi-

tion awards or not, retains its regular following. This has now been joined by an even more prestigious product, the 1984 Grenache port. In the re-shuffle subsequent to the merging of McWilliams with Corbans and Cooks, only enough for 7000 bottles was discovered in the McWilliams cellars. Designated as too good for blending to the base for Artillery port, it was given the VIP treatment of minimal filtration to preserve the maximum character. It should develop a crust with time and the cellaring prospects could not be better. If there is another Grenache port it will be some time in appearing, as the vines from which it was produced were pulled out after the 1984 vintage.

Each bottle is packed in its own presentation cylinder and, although the price, as well as the quality, is up-market at $25 to $3O, it must be remembered that this is a genuine “once-only” pack.

Those husbands who have a yen for a good port, and who are looking for a good excuse to be extravagant, could perhaps consider that Mothers’ Day is coming up!

A new in-flight service was introduced by Qantas on April 2nd. To mark the beginning of its new service from Melbourne, Auckland, and direct to Los Angeles, passengers will be served a speciality blended port. The brain child of Qantas’ passenger marketing

manager, Phil Sims, the practical details were brought together by New Zealand wine consultant, Ron Small, the resultant blend being comprised of ports from Seppelts Wines, Australia, Christian Brothers, USA, and Cooks Wines, New Zealand.

In conjunction with two Australian wine judges, various blends were tested, and one chosen, which Small described as a rich tawny style with added depth from the addition of a little Para liqueur in the blend. Named Trinity, for the three countries, the port will be bottled in 750 ml, 375 ml, and a distinctively shaped miniature. Passengers on the first flights will receive complimentary miniatures.