Beginning with the basics equipping a home workshop

Press, 27 April 1989, Page 29

Beginning with the basics equipping a home workshop

How often have you used or heard the old saying, “A bad workman always blames his tools?” But, no matter how competent the tradesman or handyperson may be, by using inferior or blunt tools, the job will not only take, a lot longer but will inevitably produce a substandard result. It is imperative that you, the D.I.Y. enthusiast, equip yourself with good tools to work with. Do not be tempted by price alone. The workshop equipment you purchase now should serve you for a lifetime provided you buy wisely at the start and treat your tools with the tender loving care they deserve. Let us look at the basic needs to cope with most of the tasks around the home. You will need a handsaw, hacksaw, hammer, folding metric rule, square, a six-inch adjustable spanner, pair of pliers, a hand or power drill, seven or eight drill bits, two chisels, two nail punches and three or four screwdrivers. As you become more

confident and competent, your requirements will become greater and you can probably justify the inclusion of a variety of power tools in your workshop. It is wise to buy your tools from an established hardware merchant, where you can expect to get the proper advice and instruction in the selection and care of tools. Here are some tips on selecting a basic tool kit: • Your handsaw. Quality is very important. The blade must be of high quality steel which will hold its set and sharpness. To test the blade quality, hold the handle firmly in one hand and with the index finger of the other, ; strike the blade firmly, pushing down until the blade bows. If the steel is up to standard, you should get a resonant sound similar to that emitted from a tuning fork. A dull sounding result indicates that the saw should be returned to the shelf. Handsaws come in about six different categories and are graded by the number of teeth per inch. Your first saw should be a six or seven point per inch which should cope with most work you will have for a saw. Generally the categories are: four and a half to five point rip saw for cutting down the grain, six to seven point crosscut for cutting across the grain, eight point panel saw, again for cutting across the grain, but giving a finer cut, 10 point saw, mainly for joinery work. Inevitably you will strike a nail some time in

your work. This almost immediately blunts the teeth. Do not persevere or try to sharpen the saw yourself. For the small cost involved, take it to a professional who has the right machinery to sharpen and set your saw within a few hours. • Your hammer. The most important consideration here is comfort and balance. For your purpose there are two sizes available — 16 ounce or 20 ounce. Try them both and you will soon decide which one suits you best. Again quality is imporant. A cheap hammer will “pit” on the face fairly quickly and become a hazard when drawing nails. You will also use your hammer for pulling nails out of timber and an inadequate tool will break a tyne quite easily. A good hammer will give you knuckle clearance when the face is squarely on the timber and should stay balanced when reversed and resting on the back of the claw. Do not forget the golden rule when hammering — as in golf, let the hammer do the

work. Never try to hit too hard, that is when the half moons appear on the woodwork. • A hacksaw. You will find many uses for a hacksaw. Not only does it cut metal, it can be used for cutting plastic, small wooden mouldings and a host of other small cutting jobs.

Check the quality of the device which tightens the blades. It is exasperating if this is inferior and the blade constantly loses its tension. Hacksaw blades are graded in teeth per inch — 18 teeth for timber or very soft metals, 24 teeth, for steel and general purpose, 32 teeth, mostly for cutting pipe.

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