Winter ‘89 Year of the great coat: long or short

Press, 5 April 1989, Page 15

Winter ‘89 Year of the great coat: long or short

In this year of classic looks the overcoat is no exception. We have got used to the thought of swinging redingotes over the jodhpurs and country tweeds which abound, while fashion has again filched from the men the best of their styles. We have their steamer coats of old, the trench coat and the army greatcoat, and now the newcomer seems to be the navy duffle coat which appears now and then with its toggles and hood and fancy linings!

With such clean lines the cut and fabric of this year’s coat will be all important. Length is also crucial for those who don’t invest often in this kind of garment. Long seems to be the answer for the practical, for those with more choice the shorter, swinging, graceful coat still has a place in this year’s wardrobe.

Trench coats have been up-dated with interesting linings for visual effect and the more practical reason for warmth. Metal buttons are also a must. Your well worn classic could be up-dated with a detachable patterned lining and some different buttons. Steamer is the classic name applied to a wrap around coat in wool

by

Liz Davies

cashmere, or even alpaca. Usually raglan sleeved to cover all, the collar varies from a neck-hugging roll to a shoulder-width shawl. Occasionally the steamer finished with a mock fur collar for that extra warmth and glamour. Mock fur carries through to the double-breasted coats, and there we also find a touch of velvet on the collars giving a crisp look. In a year of mainly plain coloured coats, the occasional tweed and large checks give a more relaxed air. These, too, tend to be highlighted with just a back collar of velvet, and in some cases corduroy. As we tend to be world followers, central heating will finally be with us. Shops and offices are already very warm, and as in Europe this will have an effect on what we wear. Inside, shirt sleeves and light-weight wools, and then to venture out, a thick coat covering all. So what a difficult choice. Keep safe with a classic, either all enveloping wool or practical raincoat; be warm and smart with the double breasted look or the swinging riding coat; or for those with the legs and the lifestyle a quick knee-length swirl before fickle fashion changes again.