Ins and outs of suit-buying

Press, 4 April 1989, Page 19

Ins and outs of suit-buying

A ALTHOUGH THE 1989 Benson and Hedges Fashion Design Awards are rapidly receding from sight, I would like to make an observation that is in no way meant as a criticism.

While conceding that the menswear section is still in its infancy, it would appear that for it to become an effective vehicle for showing design talent, it must be divided into at least two

sections — perhaps simply casual and tailored. It seems rather unfair to pit casual and therefore less structured, less refined clothing against high quality tailoring. When judging comes down to quality of detail, finish and workmanship, there is no contest.

I trust, however, that given the keen interest shown in this section, it will soon lose its orphan status and be accorded the breadth of scope confined at present to the women’s sections. For all that, it is no less remarkable that the three top outfits were coats and suits — suits cut along lines which, except for minor alterations to proportion and style details, have remained unchanged for well over a century. The persistence of the suit, after its threatened extinction during the 1960 s and 70s, confirms

that despite repeated attempts to do so, no-one has yet been able to devise a substitute for such a versatile, functional and elegant garment.

What, then, does one consider when buying a suit? Cost is obviously a major factor, with local retailers offering garments ranging from $3OO to $l3OO for a two-piece. Generally speaking, I would avoid anything at either of these two extremes, unless the cheap one is a sale item. Paying more than $BOO to $9OO for an off-the-peg garment is pretty hard to justify. Admittedly those suits which are higher priced are usually the highest quality imported articles,

but still, if you are prepared to pay such serious money, you would do far better to have one individually tailored. Having established your price range, the fit is by far the most critical factor. Though there are a few fortunate souls who can walk straight into a suit, the majority will need alterations to some degree. If you are unsure of exactly what fitting details to look for, enlist the help of a friend whose opinion you trust. The shop assistant may be some help, but bear in mind that he or she may not necessarily have your best interests at heart. Remember, too, that most alterations other than those for length and

trouser waists, generally require the trained eye of an experienced tailor. What type of cloth you choose depends on your taste and needs. Although I would generally recommend a pure wool, if you are hard on clothes or intend frequent wearings, a wool/terylene mix will serve you better. The best advice I can offer is to look closely at detail and finish. If you are satisfied with that, then try it on. Trust the mirror and your friend’s opinion. Any obvious wrinkling or dragging should not be tolerated, and don’t be fooled by the assistant who assures you it will “hang out." It won’t. If in doubt, keep looking: