THE MENU High-quality food, service, without fuss

Press, 23 December 1988, Page 21

THE MENU High-quality food, service, without fuss

WAITANGI ROOM Noahs Hotel Corner Worcester Street and Oxford Terrace Telephone 794-700 By NANCY McMILLAN In the downstairs foyer at Noahs the quiet, New Zealand timbers look of the 1970 s has been replaced with marble and grand columns, doubtless in the interests of international tourism, but upstairs the dining room is as it was. The Waitangi Room, in fact, is acquiring the kind of solid and sedate luxury associated with Warners, the United Service, or the Clarendon in the 19505. One did not go to those establishments to admire the latest in decor or to sample the trendiest cuisine, but rather in the expectation of being treated quietly to highquality food and service. So with Noahs. One could take anyone there (unless it were Maxine or Alistair Redfern), utterly confident that all would go well. On the midweek night

we were there the sun was still streaming in. We had not ordered a window table but from almost anywhere in the room one can gaze out on the trees and lawns beside the old brick Chambers of Commerce. A pianist was playing Bacharach and Simon, very discreetly, in our midst, and our attendant at once made us comfortable. So did our chairs, a fact I appreciate at the end of a working day. Some other highly priced restaurants pay scant attention to this source of comfort. We decided to order a glass of the house wines. Although we found these reasonably pleasant, we both agreed that next time we would order a bottle of one of our own favourites. We began our meal with soup. S.’s was asparagus, with satisfyingly large chunks of freshly cooked spears presenting something of a challenge ($10). Mine was creamy lobster, also with generous portions of the main

flavouring ($10). Although delicious, it was too heavy for the warm summer’s evening. However, the choice was mine; I could have had an iced cucumber, also at $lO. The highlight of the evening for me was the entree. We both chose the

New Zealand smoked salmon ($l6). It was presented very simply and was just sharp and salty enough to give the meal a great lift. I would have been quite happy to have had a small return and called it a night. We proceeded, how-

ever, to our main course. Mine was a rack of lamb, crumbed and herbed, and served with a fine plum sauce which complemented the delicate flavour of the meat ($27). S. had steak medallions, accompanied by a rich brandy and black pepper

sauce, about which he was most enthusiastic ($29). Both of us chose accompanying cooked vegetables, rather than a salad. The carrots were particularly delicious, but I did not enjoy the potatoes, which had been finely sliced and curried. Sweets could be selected from a trolley or ordered from the menu. S. inquired about the listed ices and eventually received an assortment which included a jellybean ice-cream ($10). I lingered over a choice from the trolley. The array included pavlova, cheesecake, and lemon meringue pie. I chose blueberry tart ($9). This was good, especially the pastry, which was short, sweet and dry.

We finished this fine meal with black coffee, which came with homemade sweets, and could have been replenished several times as we sat there talking. The cost, including two glasses of wine each, was $136.