Fine Australian reaches shelves

Press, 9 December 1988, Page 28

Fine Australian reaches shelves

Wine

with I

Phillip Pye

Those who have travelled from Sydney to the Gold Coast may have found themselves staying halfway, at the coastal town of Port Maquarie, or Port, as the locals prefer to call it. To the average traveller, Port Maquarie may appear simply as one of the prettiest little coastal towns in Australia. However, a mere 10 minutes drive from the solitude of the golden sands and gentle breakers of Flynns Beach is one of Australia’s most talked-about vineyards, Cassegrain Wines.

To the average New Zealander a vineyard six hours north of Sydney may sound a bit crazy, given the warmth of the climate that far north. However, the region, known as Hastings Valley, enjoys a unique micro-climate.

Hastings Valley had a rather large and very successful wine industry well into the first few decades of this century, but sadly, the economic situation finally took its toll. A viticuitural rebirth occurred in 1984, when

the Cassegrain vineyard opened its doors. The Cassegrain family, as their name suggests, are French. The winemaker of the family — John Cassegrain — has, of course, spent time back in France with his relatives working the vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy. He has also had a successful stint in California, where he delivered a thesis on barrel fermentation for Chardonnay at Davis University. On returning to Australia he took up a post at Tyrrells with Ralph Fowler to make the now

world-famous 1979 Pinot Noir and its associated successes.

If one ever has the opportunity, he or she would do well to visit the Cassegrain vineyard, which is on the Pacific highway. The driveway is lined with rose bushes, the winery is one of the prettiest in the southern hemisphere, having been built mostly from native timbers, and the people are amongst the friendliest and most hospitable in the world. The pleasure of simple excellence only starts at the winery door though; here one can taste some of the best of Australia’s boutique wines. The good part is, you can now buy the wines in Christchurch.

The wines that are available are a presentation of the kind of quality one can find in Cassegrain wines. Semilion is most certainly the favoured white wine of Bordeaux, and produces the great dry whites of Graves and the fine dessert wines of Barsace. It also thrives in Australia’s Hunter Valley.

Mr Cassegrain obtains the very best of this variety, as is evident in his 1987 Pokolbin Semillon, with its delightfully fresh and lively rockmelon bouquet and palate. There are also some older semilions available which are truly full, rich and buttery, and well worth buying at under $2O. However, the 1987 is the star, and well worth cellaring for a decade at $19.50. There may be a Chardonnay or two available as well if Qantas doesn’t decide to ring up at the last moment, but the ’B4 I tried recently was absolutely brilliant, with its ripe, peachy character. For a mere $23 one can also get a very good lateharvest sauvignon blanc semilion, which throws some doubt over a” few local attempts with its decidedly herbacious and rich palate. Australian Shiraz is simply wonderful, yet so well priced, and the Cassegrain McLaren Vale Shiraz 1985, with its lovely gum leaf nose and soft, yet peppery palate, is great buying at $16.50. The simply wonderful 1986

Pokolbin Shiraz, with its velvety touch, is at the give-away price of $l7.

When it comes to cabernet sauvignon, we are mixing with one of the Australian masters. The 1985 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is simply one of those delightful, minty Australian cabernets that one would be simply mad not to put away for at least a decade at $19.50. The 1986 Coonawarra Cabernet is also simply a steal at the same price, and is full of wonderful ripe fruit.

There may also be some of the trophy-win-ning 1986 Hunter Valley Cabernet available; if you happen to bump into this magnificent wine, grab it. If one is partial to good Australian tawny port the Old Yarras, with its wonderful rancio characters is, at a mere $3O, perfect evidence of what it takes to win gold medals. The Cassegrain wines, I believe, will not be available in ready supply, so to secure some of Australia’s greatest, either phone (0502) 7008 or get in touch with your nearest wine retailer.